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And how many thousands of dollars is all that stuff you just listed? All he wanted to know is if he could use a large bolt pattern disk with the KH caliper and spindle. Yes this can be done, with an early mustang rotor. Outer diameter needs to be cut down slightly, and the recess in the back of...

Hmmmm, never seen those rotors before. And the ad is not really clear. I say's you have to have disk brake spindles, but it doesn't specify '73 up spindles, or the earlier spindles. If I were him I would sell what he's got and get the earlier Kelsey Hayes disk setup that is small bolt pattern.

I did this on my 68 Dart, worked out great.

Could be their using all 73-up spindles, calipers, caliper mounts, etc, and maybe they are having disks/hubs made the same size as large bolt pattern stuff, but with the small pattern. I don't know anything about these guys, never heard of them. I'd certainly want to talk to them about this on...

I think they are close to 11, maybe 10.8" or something. But those calipers look like 73-up BBP style, and from the pics even the disks look like BBP to me.

Hmmm weird, that stuff sure looks like a large bolt pattern set up, but it says it's 5x4 pattern.

Sweet, looks good

That dart looks sweet with the Magnum 500's. I think you'll be fine once you do the disk swap and get rid of the adapters. I'd use the same rims, just maybe go with a slightly narrower tire on the front. Love the color and the rims.

Trailbeast, you put an idea in my head with your comment about a window track roller. Well I just happend to have couple of window track rollers, (old mustang I think) Anyway I got to work and was able to make what I needed Heres a pic of what I started with, and the finished bushing.

Thats what I was hoping i'd find at the bearing supply place, something I could modify. I'll try the Ace hardware thing and see if they have something I can modify for my use.

So the new booster got here wednesday, the booster works great, but its missing parts. Specifically theres suppost to be a nylon bushing where the push rod connects to the brake pedal. At least there was a bushing there on the first booster. This one is missing it. So there is slop between...

Well just got off the phone with jeg's. Guy named "Ronny" with an indian accent. Hmmm So the deal is, they wouldn't send me a new one, till they get the old one back. Which sucks because I had paid 2nd day air to get this thing here and installed by the weekend. (biggest cruise of the year...

Bought a new 8" dual diaphram booster from Jegs. Got it intalled this morning and took it out for a ride. Stops the car fine, better than old booster that would bleed off vacume and then leave you standing on the pedal to get the car stopped. Anyway the new booster seems to have a tight...

as others have said, it depends on what axles you get. I bought mine from Moser, first thing they asked, was if I wanted A-body offset, or B-body offset. I bought the A-body offset axles, which allowed me to keep my original backing plates, brakes, and drums. Just had to redrill the drum...

This is correct. It all depends on what axles you buy for your bbp conversion. I ordered axles from Moser, and they asked if I wanted bbp offset, or sbp offset. I got the sbp offset axles, then used my existing brakes, and just redrilled the larger pattern on my drums myself. Its not...

Here's a link to that post about the mustang rotors. Should be all the info you need. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=20544&highlight=mustang+rotors

You know I haven't quite figured that out yet. Since doing the lbp disk swap, and swapping out my rear axles and mounting up my new wheels, I started breaking the car down for paint, so I basically haven't driven it except for in and out of the garage a few times. There is a little...

Or, he could just look at the studs themselves. SBP uses 7/16" studs, LBP has 1/2" studs. But looks like he's already figured out that they are sbp KH

Your booster could be bad ! Mine just went bad, and believe me when the booster isn't working you really have to push to get the car to stop.

I just redrilled my drums a couple days ago. I made myself a transfer punch. Center punched for all the new holes, and started drilling, first with a small 1/8" bit, then moved up to the 1/2" bit. ( 1/2" lug bolts, I figured 1/2" holes, wrong) First mistake was not looking closely enough...

Finally a pic of the final assembly, And a pic or two with my new wheels mounted.

Next a spent about an hour on each caliper with a small disk sander and a 80 grit disk cleaning up the calipers. Removed lots of rust and scale off the calipers and got them looking pretty nice. Then a coat of rustoleum rusty metal primer, and 2 coats of high temp semi-flat black paint I had...

Next problem was possibly because I didn't have have the race area cut deeper, or maybe its just manufactureing tolerances on these old mopars. The disk was not even close to being centered in the caliper as you can see from the pic. For some reason this was only a problem on the drivers...

Next when I test fit the caliper, I had interference issues with a certain part of the caliper rubbing on the mustang rotor/hub. First pic is of the problem area, Second pic is after a few minutes with a disk sander and a 36 grit disk. Problem solved.

OK, Sorry for the delayed update. Been pretty busy. Finished the front disk swap and have been working on an axle swap for the back. I've kind of laid out some pics of problems I had, and solutions that I used to get it finished up. So here we go. First heres a pic of the back of the...

Actually I'm having some trouble with my Moser axles too. Although the center register is correct, and they seem to be A-body offset, I am having a problem I installed new original type tapered roller bearings on both axles (after comparing my old axles to the new and it all looked correct)...

I just got mine today. As you can see from the photo, the hub register is the same size on the Moser axles as on my old axles. (I checked it with calipers too) Sorry, maybe you got the ones for the bigger B,C,body brakes. It's a little weird I think, that on their website, they have that...

I ordered a set of these last week. Should be here on tuesday. Part # M30-CST-A45 - A-Body, 8 3/4" Rear OEM Axle Shafts, Stock A-Body Drum Brake (Redrilled) -- 30 Spline SKU: M30-CST-A45 Availability: In stock. Dont know if the original poster ordered online or called. But I called...

Machineman, thanks for the tip about the transfer punch. I was planning on using the redrilled axle as a pattern, just was going to mark through the holes then center punch them and drill. But after seeing the transfer punch's, I think thats the way to go. Thanks for the tip.

$80 bucks to weld up the old holes and drill new.