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I agree that the random banging noise in audio is not pinging. Something is hitting something.

I'll assume there isn't enough wall thickness to the integrated nipple to thread it inside or outside for a metal cap or plug. If the rubber cap is the only solution I would look for highest quality,,, silicone maybe ?

87 model may have had the lean burn ignition unit. It was pretty big box mounted on the side of the breather canister and had the vacuum servo for spark advance mounted on the end of it. It got a bunch of wires plugged into it too. I'll guess someone changed yours, deleting all that, and...

Just curious , which cylinders were those ?

Timing can make a big difference. Up against the coil bracket isn't a limitation. First, get a timing light. Second, rotate the wire positions on the cap as needed to get the timing req'd for todays fuels.

I understand where you're coming from, lack luster throttle response. I got the same from my 67 273 Some tweeks that will make it a lot more fun to drive are dang near free. I upgraded the charging system, 2 brl intake and carb, and ignition system, all with OEM parts from a 73 318. I don't have...

Changes in timing, free flowing exhaust relieving back pressure, lots of things can make a difference.

The tall one is vapor vent to a charcoal canister that mounts there.

I've heard some say they bought a super long cable and routed it over/around the trans to avoid the exhaust.

My opinion... Build what you already have. If you went out and bought a 318, 360, whatever, the 273 will probably lay somewhere in your way until it goes to scrap.

If it has a snorkle type air cleaner a shop towel or rats nest in there will cause this symptom. A failing coi,l or coil wire, or weak charging system, all possible causes. Throttle cable slipped in its clamp,

It will resonate engine vibration to the car.It's meant for racers who have their priorities set a little different from the average street driver. With a little imagination and a tape measure anyone could go to their local pick-a-part and select a dog bone engine mount from some front wheel...

You could take the oil pump completely apart, clean, and inspect it. A small piece of debris in its relief valve can cause serious headaches. That can happen with a brand new pump too though. As for the rings, Other than scars in the cylinder walls, I dont know what else to look at.

I would have the stock 4 leafs re arched. A rear sway bar will sweeten the street miles too.

Detonation above 200 degrees could very well be a poor cooling system i.e. radiator. Case in point, totally stock rebuild spec 318 2 brl. I fought detonation for weeks. Various heat range plugs, different fans, nothing helped. New radiator cured it.

Possible vacuum leak. Carb base gasket, pcv valve, something that is subject to change.

Please note, minitub cant be done to a vert.

Sounds like a bad coil to me.

the temp sensor in the breather can tells the door when to open.

Intake, carb, cam, wont make much difference without improved exhaust. If you haven't done anything yet, start with upgrading the charging sytem and the ignition system. The stock stuff from a later model will work better than the original 69.

It's most often the young guys that add the bolt on goodies, especially loud exhaust. Then they start poundings on the throttle like they are stomping out a fire. They dont realize they're stretching the timing chain and just begging it to fail. I know a guy who spent 600 on new heads for a...

The truest part of the above is " best bang ". So many people thing they can bolt a bunch of external crap on a tired old engine then go racing. After the engine blows up , the previously new carb, intake, headers, ignition, etc.. is all used and worthless.

I dont know if the part store will accept return on the idler arm. Only they can answer that question. So, lets say you do buy a later model power steering gear. You will need the coresponding pitman arm, idler arm, and probably the box coupling for your 67 steering column. Someone here may...

I dont know what I would try. The taller trans mount might be the solution. I wouldn't cut the draglink unless it was the ony option.

The steering mechanism was gonna have to be put together that way to use the 67 steering gear without the headers too. The stem and nut of the idler arm stud aren't a whole lot shorter than the ball socket with grease fitting. The difference came from the different offsets in the early and...

Put it against the block with new gaskets and hold it still as possible while tightening the bolt. The outer washer protects the cork gasket on the bolt side where the turning is. There's on protection on the adapter side of the cork. Turning the adapter can screw up the cork gasket.

a little more curve or twist in the stick will make it harder to put in and help it stay there.

Blow by should come out the breather cap and carry oil with it. If the dip stick is climbing out of the tube, vibraton is the cause. Change the bends in the stick or simply turn it 180 degrees might work.

Later engines built for unleaded fuel got hardened valve seats

Idle rpm too high causes run on and engine temperature can cause both run on and varying idle rpm. I have to ask what you have for a temp gauge and / or if its running too hot. I had similar problems once upon a time. That was when the factory temp gauge was lieing to me. A new radiater...