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You should not need an adapter to use a 727. A small block 727 will bolt right up to the 5.7 hemi. You will need a special flex plate to account for the difference from the crank to the converter.

Yes, they will be noisy at idle, the lower the idle the worse it's gonna be. My race car idles at 1500rpm with a high volume oil pump to guard against that issue.

That sounds like some darned good oil pressure! My racing 5.7 has the high volume Melling pump and with 10w40 oil I get about 75 psi on a cold startup. I would love to see 80 to 85!

What is your oil pressure at idle on a cold motor?

Sorry, I said "New Hemi" in the title. A little ambiguous, should have said "Gen 3 Hemi".

It's a blind hole, just confirmed by putting finger by hole and turning engine over. Whew!

Only one hole in the right head by #2 exhaust port about 1/2 or 9/16 in diameter.

I have eagle heads, don't know what year. I will put my finger over it and turn the motor over to see if it is open, I just assumed it was. Fingers crossed!

I just had to replace my 10 year old TTI headers on my 5.7 swap. The old ones had a small tube that ran the EGR port on the right side head into the closest header tube. I assumed this would still be there, but the new headers leave the EGR port exposed. Anybody else have to deal with this...

Yes, and the intake pushrods sit parallel to the ground if the motor is in the car, so gravity works against you. Much easier to install if motor is on a stand!

You can't see the lifters on a Gen 3 Hemi unless the heads are off.

If you have removed rockers, you know that installing the exhaust side is not too bad, but you need about 3 pair of hands to get the @##$% intake side installed because of the angle the pushrods sit at. They will often not locate into the cup of the lifter and will instead sit on the bottom...

This is how I primed my 5.7, but you can only use this tool if you are running an aftermarket timing set: https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67570 It doesn't show it in the video, but I rotated the motor a couple of times and re primed to make sure it was getting all the nooks and...

I feel your pain! I was making a 13.5:1 700hp 5.7 stroker and had to get new pistons. Only 1 place was making them and they wouldn't sell them to me, only to an engine builder. It literally took a year to get the pistons! I am in my 60's and that is a year of racing I'll never get back.

Thanks for the info. I use this combo in a racing application at 13.5:1 compression ratio. someone who wants to run pump gas would not be interested in that. I know they make very thick head gaskets, maybe for this reason.

See if you can find a pair of the later aluminum heads. They are much better and will work on the 03-08 blocks.

Aftermarket timing sets come with a separate cog that only drives the oil pump. The lower timing gear does not have the pump drive attached to it. I forgot that the OEM ones are like what you described.

Kudos to Summit Racing! I bought the oil pump from them a year ago and just tried it this week due to waiting on other parts for the build. Their policy is no returns or exchanges after 6 months, but I called customer service and they are going to let me return it!

The engine was assembled when I spun the oil pump. I would think that once you prime it you should be okay. If the pickup tube is full of oil and the surfaces have a coating on them from being primed I think I'll be okay. I noticed I was turning that drill slower than a starter motor turns and...

The problem with injecting oil into the fittings on the side of the oil filter boss is it doesn't actually spin the oil pump, and if you are building a new motor you want to know the oil pump is good before you put the motor in the car and fire it up. In my particular case we discovered the...

Had to be modified to work with a Melling oil pump, this mod would probably need to be made for all oil pumps. Finally Gen 3 owners have a way to prime their new build before it goes in the car. https://youtube.com/shorts/rPVHMgKdyO4 https://youtube.com/shorts/RqdfHWKCmLI Under $60 as I...

I have a 5.7 based stroker in my drag car. It started getting very inconsistent. We took the motor apart and the bolt on reluctor wheel had come loose and you could move it 5-10 degrees! New reluctor wheel will be bolted in AND tack welded! If you plan on going over 6500rpm regularly like I...

I decided to just pull the motor and tranny from the top. There was a possibility of needing a new rear main seal which involves removing the transmission and flexplate, so I just took it out from the top like I usually do. I also had some valve cover bolt holes in the heads that needed heli...

I have a 70 Duster drag car with a GenIII Hemi in it. The motor sits on a motor plate, there are no motor mounts. I need to drop the pan due to an oil leak. Rather than pull the motor out, I'd like to try dropping the K member, which I've never done before. remember the K member does NOT...

Is It lost oil pressure at the track. It sat for 20 minutes between rounds cooling off. So, not an extended period of time. It made 4 passes with good oil pressure.

Why would you pull the motor if it has no oil pressure? Wouldn't you just take off the front cover and replace the oil pump?

The block is an '04 truck block. There is a block off plate where the filter mount.

4 rounds and all was fine. started it up to make another pass and noticed there was no oil pressure. It sat probably 20 minutes.

The photo of the orange engine block is not from me. My block is black. Why would a 6.1 pump be an upgrade and would it fit?

It was a rebuild and it had oil pressure when we started it up. Ran it down the track 4 times before oil pressure went out.