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Idk if i will have enough room to play with if i add another 1/8 inch

Apparently I was lied to. They're stock axles just cleaned up really well and green bearings.

Think maybe yukon, came without sticker Bought from someone who didn't use

Cone

So I have the usual problem of the green bearings keeping the axle from searing by about 1/4 in, I would remove the thrust block, but there is a chance I may go back to tappered later. Is it better to cut the axle instead, so that both style bearings fit regardless?

It's not mandatory. Stay on topic. Or please don't offer the help. I asked because I didn't know about my current issue, everything else i know what i need to do.

1/4

Thank you for this! I do have an issue with the driver side axle being closwr to the 2/4 than the passenger side, but i thought it was due to the rear being shifted because I have not moved the perches in to A body specs. So Looks like I have a combo of issues

I just accepted fault.. so idk what you're talking about. Guy has 4 cars, cuda, barracuda and a dart and lots of work done to both. Said he took the rear out of one of his cars, apparently not accurate since both axles are passenger side. You read stuff how you will. Who you interpret things...

i will check it out guys, purchased rear from a mopar guy on this site who apparently had no idea wth he is doing. I clearly have no idea about stock bearings either until now

Thanks but low budget runner right now. Temp solutions are fine right now

What if i have two adjusters? Loosen driver side all the way?

So the adjuster should be turned all the way towards the brake drum or towards the middle of the car? juster

I think i was gyped, both axles I recall have that adjuster in the photo. Is clock wise me looking toward the center section or from the spline towards the wheel studs

I do have those! Which way do I spin to loosen it up?

There are no adjusters and no sure grip. As I tightened the axle retaining plates, everything got harder to rotate. Maybe I should pull and just install some green bearings

I am having a hard time turing one of the wheels on the recently installed rear. There are tapered bearings on the axles. It's pretty hard to free spin. I didn't see any adjusters on the bearings, any suggestions on why one wheel is so hard to turn? Also no oil in rear right now

Ive done it with new springs ans bushings and it was good on a duster but there's more space in there. This is just a temp thing until i can do it right with new perches or 4 link of some sort

I had b body in duster and it wasn't this bad, I'll start with new bushings and leafs to see if that helps!

Actually the bushings in front hangers are pretty old and beat, would this cause the rear not to sit right?

I need help figuring out how to get my b body rear centered in the car. I bolted it in and it's half inch closer to one 1/4 than the other side, looks like the leafs are twisting a little more than i remember then doing on my duster to use a B body rear, any ideas or solutions BESIDES moving the...

Pm me... Selling because I'm going 6 speed

My crt transmission is for sale!!!

I have a fully built 904 with CRT parts with only 1000 street miles. Built to handle power and even a dynamic converter too

I have a dynamic 4200 for a 904 for sale! If you have a 904. Used for 700 miles

This trans was built to handle anything thrown at it. Manual reverse vb, high stall, kevlar band, performance clutches and steelies, billet servo

I have a fully built 904 with a high stall converter. 1000 miles on it I can sell to you for 1400 plus shipping! Has all the CRT Racing goodies and the converter was built by Dynamic!

Does this even make sense?:violent1:

Yep. My 904 I have for sale has it and a 4200 stall. It's a cope and I loved it for the 1000 miles I used it

I love my dynamic