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I have the Moser axles any of the rear axle vendors will have a set

A dumb question, have you added the 4 oz. friction modifier additive yet? I did not add it and the carrier made noise until I did

I use Valvoline products

I prime example of the use, I done a 30 Model A with the mopar drive line. I did not put in the additive into the 8 3/4, started the car, while on jacks, and heard a loud sequel coming from the rear axle. Added the additive, and the noise went away, car is still running

I use the mopar additive in the sure grip. 4318060, and some like the Ford axle additive, I think you can get at the auto parts

rear axle 80-90 with the additive for the sure grip

What was the backlash? With all new bearings it should be .005" to .006"

Years ago I built a 30 street rod with a 340/727/posi 8 3/4 all have been rebuilt. Had it on the jack stand for the first fire up as a complete drive train. The was a noise coming from it and thought it was coming from the trans. So I took the trans apart and did not find anything wrong. Put it...

I do not know a whole lot about the third member, but it sounds like the gears are not set to the proper back lash.

I looked at it and looked, did not see it at first. I put white grease on the pawl and it filled the holes, so it looked solid.

There is, there is!! it was hidden by grease, looked solid. Thanks Now I feel stupid.

Thanks I have seen this, but what holds that spring in? #21-30-355

Does anyone have a parts breakdown or explode view of the center console shifter? I have a shifter that was apart and trying to find out how the dent spring is held in place. It is the spring that goes behind the dent to push it back into the notches. I have the service manuals, but they do not...

Richmond of course

Our chose is the 3:55, it is a good all around gear.

It says flange to flange is 52 37/64" spring perch spacing 43"

I am using a Tremec TKO 5 speed with 3:91 gears and 255/60-15 rear tires. It is a good setup

If you have time, and good nut and bolt house will have studs in different lengths, also.

I have always used a ball pen hammer, hit the axle straight on the flange. That breaks the suction and the ale comes out.

I think that there is a lip in the axle that the seal will contact to stop. This is the depth for it, enough to clear the bearing.

Could be my eyes, the pattern looks to be a little high on the gear teeth. Might recheck that again too. Good Luck

I have found that if the studs were removed and replaced, and not indexed in the original stud serrations. it will create a leak path. Some gear oil resistant RTV around the stud will help. A little bit goes a long way.

What did the cam manufacture call for? Most times they will suggest a range to get.

Most likely it is a 7 1/4. Do a search here someone posted a chart on the different rear axles and how to id them. Dose it have a cover in the back?

Good Luck You can google "mymopar.com and download a service manual for your car

Yes with U bolts

I like the QA1 adjustable shock. You can adjust them for the use and ride you like.

I got a 1/4" beam at O Reilly's for a cheap cost.

You can get the Mopar on at most dealers, it works the best in my option. Some say the ford on is also good. Dose the axles have the cone bearings? and are the preload set correct. The preload is on the left side. Good luck.

Just make sure that the studs have one side cut down to clear the axle housing, the head if kept round will interfere with it seating.