Search results for query: *

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams 1972 to 1976

Do you have a service manual?? The wires should be close to where the ballast was mounted.

I used the wires that went to the ballast went thru a terminal strip. the terminal strip I jumped a couple of terminals as to have voltage for the functions, start, run, MSD.

Here. There is a member that makes them. I thought it was a female in Florida, but that has been awhile and my memory i getting bad.

There are many ways to mount a tach. I used a bracket that slides under the dash pad and ran the wires thru the vent. Search the forum, there are several threads about this.

It is call a terminal block. Then you can use jumpers between the terminal to pass voltage to the other terminal. I also used this feature to supply voltage to the MSD box. I got the terminal block at O Reilly's

This is what I did when I bypassed the resister.

I just put a disconnect in the negative ground wire, ran the cable to the starter stud. I put the disconnect in a spot that was covered by the frame, and acts in a safety hidden position.

The instrument panel voltage regulator working??

Just clicks Check battery for at least 12 vdc check battery cables to be making good contact and remove corrosion Try jumping the car, if car turns over, then the battery is at fault If working then the started relay needs to be changed If still having problem the stater is getting bad

An after thought, if they were missing, something else could be wrong, the socket that holds the bulb, or the printed circuit board that the socket goes into may be corroded.

To my knowledge they are just bulbs you can get from a auto parts store. I think they are the 194 bulbs

I use on on the negative cable. If you are racing, you need to see the specs. I use it on the negative cable to shut off the power when the car is not going to be used in a week or so. I have a trunk mounted battery and the switch is mounted by the cable with the lever under the car. Even with...

Have used them for years, I like them for what I use them for. They are more expensive but I think they are worth the extra. I have only one that failed, it sat too long between starts and it failed after several years.

From the gauge to a good ground? The signal goes from the sending unit through the circuit board pins ( the ones in a circle) then to the gauge, The voltage limiter 5 v may be bad or the pin that it is on does not make contact will.

Dose the engine have a good ground?

\ \ I was wrong it should be 1.75 on the ohm settings. mopar voltage regulators - Google Search

Maybe the regulator, I think that the resistance should be around 18.5 or so. I got an adjustable one and adjusted it down.

I have heard that it does not matter which terminal the wire is on. I maybe wrong, just what I heard. They go to a terminal ring.

R/T Specialties have a wipe kit, that has three of the linkage bushings, and the bushing and clip for the motor, cost is $25 call Tom

I am a fan of the M&H wiring from Year One. I ran a MAS wire to help the larger alternator. I am running the smallest Power Master now for 4 years.

You have a + and a - direct to battery The switched 12 VDC ,you use two wires, that were connected to the ballast, one is a switched and the other is the start wires, not sure what colors they are. I used a terminal strip to connect to. the two bundles wires go to the coil. White wire is the...

I have used them many times. A MSD 6AL box is easy to hook up, remove the ballast and hook the box two wire to the coil and follw the instructions, you are good to go.

I'd remove the seat, 4 nuts and it is out.

May have to get a another circuit board, post here and you will probably have some Reponses. I may even have a used one.

I would think that the tube needs to be down. The one pointed up must have to be mounted on the other side of the engine.

What we founded out was the voltage regular had too much resistance. We measured it and it was 380, we found one that measured 187, now we have 14.6 volts in the system.

Thanks it is a new alternator and tested, which's had a output to 18 volts. I do not know if this is really is the cause, but I am open to all.

I have 0 ohms between the two, and 11.8 volts at the red and 11.3 bolts at the blue.

I have a 1.18 volt drop from the battery voltage to the output side of the ignition switch. What would the ohm be from the red wire to the blue wire out of the switch?