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Service/Repair Manual - PT Cruiser Forum you should be able to find it around there.^^^ i would imagineits going to be a major PITA. pay attention to how it snakes up under the manifold to the back of the pump. At lease on my SRT, that is what hung me up for a bit.

x tres.... use the LCA to move bar.

x2 and yes urethane sucks if you cannot grease it.

like the rest, i put a piece of scrap on the fenderwells to distribute the weight.. 4x4 across and threaded allrod into the carb stud holes. i had added a ratchet strap or something else because i have more self preservation as i age. works perfect. i was also fixing a broken Kframe pin...

after giving it a good once over so you dont die/make it worse... as suggested by others, if its not obviously loose/broke, it could be a crack in sheet metal. I had a '92 ramcharger that made all kinds of bad sounds from a VERY small crack in the cowl metal and it had a frame! i would give...

i don't know if i would trust it to bonded rubber. i know the strut is there but still...

damnit. i have the same bracket waiting to be installed

Personally I would lean toward the 255's on a 9" rim especially on the front. A nearly 11" wide tire is going to be bulgy on the rim and allow a lot of movement. if you can get 10" rims on there, yeah I can see the 275s working, its worth a test anyways. This was a very tight autox test...

right! too wide of a tire for the width of the wheel. While it works in some cases in others it feels "wallowy" though it depends on driving style/setup if that works for you. When in doubt save money and tire shoulders and enjoy steering response. or if you have deep pockets test back to...

i'd like to see those CAM results compared with the rest of the field. Say a newer Mustang in ESP or anything ESP or even C, D, F stock. and yes i need more tire. I'd like to go to 255 or so on a 17x9. I've become a convert of not overtiring wheels.

i currently drive a SRT in GS and a have recently retired my regular neon in STC. this season i started to also drive my 67 barracuda in CAM. Car is mostly stock 1.03 + hellwig FSB, 3/4 rear swaybar, FF UCA, 73+ abody disks and willwood proportioning with manual disk/drum brakes. 17x8 and...

Im not sure that one is "better" than the other. Its a pretty simple bar of steel after all. I would start by figuring out what you want to do then zero in on a size. The different brands offer different sizing ranges. For a daily firm driver I also bought the 1.03 PST for the value. now...

call talk to a real person, get your FABO discount ;-) My experience wit PST plesant . good service and the bars worked well especially for the price. i dont see the difference between paypal and CC. you DONT have your bank account tied to your paypal do you? more protection with CC anyways...

Ive just got my K frame back together and installed last week. I even autox'd 90Miles away over the weekend. All steering linkage and front end components are new or nearly new. The only unknown in the front suspension/steering is the power steering chuck. It actually goes down the road...

there is no bushing on the LCA side of the strut. Presumably you are talking about the LCA pin spinning? Im pretty sure thats how my K frame tubes were ruined by the previous owner. I'll be welding up my new K frame this weekend. Im told in the linke below that the LCA pin is an...

You read my mind. I was just daydreaming about how one would go about shrinking the diameter of a wallard out LCA pin tube Here's a nicely done reinforcement job for illustration http://dartslantsix.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/how-to-reinforce-the-k-frame/ I need to consult my resident...

Obviously. QFT the C washer "repair" made it impossible to hold onto. I wound up using the BMF 4" channel locks and a old glove. I nicked the pin on the end where i slipped off the leather and made a nice raised ridge. OOPS that's a bearing surface! I knocked that spot down with a file...

Yup I've been through that and i completely agree that my urethane strut rod bushings are pushing the LCA off of the pin. Its plainly obvious the strut is effectively too long. Who knows how long the the LCA pin nut was backed off 1/4" but i suspect the previous owner had issues holding onto...

Well crap. :banghead: with the nut off, the pin when was certainly LOOSE in the hole. I'll see if i can get the calipers on it in a couple days. Its been repaired once before, So, I'll have to eventually do it myself correctly. Or swap it out, or not Ok so the friction of the T-bar in...

The urethane LCA bushing is staying. I don't think it has anything to do with a loose K-frame pin. The questions remaining are: 1) Is there an "acceptable tolerance spec" of the LCA PIN in the Kframe? Its a loose fit RADIALLY. In other words how much larger diameter is/can the Kframe hole...

i shouldnt post at 130AM... the pin was LOOSE in k frame 0.25" as in not tight. I could move it in/out that far, the. 100% sure thats not right. the question i have is how much slop RADIALLY in the tube is OK for the pin? It tightens down so i think its OK but this is the first old mopar...

what is a common issue with a urethane LCA bushing? The pin was loose, and the strut is holding the LCA away from the from the K-frame, IMO excessively. I'll cut the strut bushing down ala everyone else.

So I've been unable to keep an alignment and really haven't driven the old car much recently because of it. I grabbed a pry bar and i could wobble the LCA. tore apart the barracuda tonight to see whats going on at night, in the dark with a headlamp... OK so that there is the issue PIC below...

whatchu talking about Willis? I admit i don't have one in my hand BUT.... is it not two shells of metal with a isolating rubber bush in the middle? i get what you are saying, that the strut takes all the for/aft forces. But if the bushing is only job to twist, even more reason to make it a...

I dont know your driving level but if you are just starting Autox I would start with a nice summer max performance street tire and a good aggressive alignment. Spend the rest of the money on making sure bushings/BJ/brakes and other components are 100% and then go to as many autox driving...

Ive read several threads over the last couple days as I plan to re-do my LCA's and/or Kframe tubes. Its interesting to hear the anecdotal evidence to each pro/con. Where one will say it failed early, another will say it lasts more than a decade. Having done Urethane on my FWDs i have a hard...

What tires are you running now? All season rock hards? If you are over driving the solution is driver as much as tires and more tire does not always equal good tire. How much does your car wieght?

IMO get decent performance tires first. My plan is to run 17" wheels just because there are so many availible tires including used ones with plenty of life. I dont know your driving level but I would also stay in street tires classes until you get thing dialed in.... Including the driver