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Build it yourself, its actually fairly easy, I built the harness and relay kit for my car for under 60$ with the matching factory colors. Use the original wiring from the headlights to activate the relays, and install a 15 amp fuse for each relay. I kind of went overkill when I did mine, used...

Awesome! Ill double check it in the morning.. Im done for the day today wrenching.. hooked the battery up today, tested my headlights, relays work properly and I didnt see any release of the magic electron transmitting smoke, so I sealed the wires correctly lol. Temporarily bypassed my neutral...

on mine neg, its pin space pin space pin space... five row connector, three pins I think I have it though... bout to hook the battery up and have my wife stand by with the extinguisher in case I catch on fire.... cross your fingers gents.....

Ok gents, there is a three pin plug on the back of the dashboard on my cuda. its next to the ammeter connectors and above the ingition switch. The connector that goes on it isnt marked which way it should go. does the connectory go grey grey orange, with the orange towards the ammeter, or orange...

now this leads into my next dumb question what is the difference between the high and lows? Is it the position of the element in relation to the reflector?

nm, just looked at your diagram then figured it out... had to remember that electrical flows from ground to positive, not pos to ground... when the high beams are on via the relay, the potential is there for the lows, but is stopped by the lack of termination at the low beam relay

Ok, just had me worried. Spent three weekends in a row over-engineering this harness (namely 10g wire, every connection crimped with non-insulated crimps, soldered, then double wrapped in heat shrink tubing.... I hate wimpy electrical systems roflmao... plus each headlight has its own ground...

Ok gents, heres the background. Been building a replacement headlight wiring harness for relay use the last couple weekends Ive had off. Got it installed today, for the most part (jeez what a pain that was...) still havent hook the harness into my relays yet. Heres my retarded question. After...

Ran into the same issue on my 66. had some crispy wires behind my dash, and the connectors on the dashboard were dirty. Still working on mine, but upgrading the wiring harness is fairly easy once you figure it out. I would replace the voltage regulator in the dashboard with a solid state...

Well replaced the entire wire from the ignition switch today, previous wire was 16 gauge, had a roll of green 12 gauge in my shop. Rewired it, granted its not the original color, then went and updated my printed out copy of the schematics with the correct color... Eventually when I'm done that...

Ok dart, Heres where I sit. Dashboard has been pulled out, battery removed. All connections to the dash disconnected. Ignition switch disconnected. The only switches in the dash that are connected are- Headlight switch Wiper switch In the engine bay, I disconnected two lower wires from the...

Ok update to the car... Its been a few months since Ive had any time to get on here and pay my due respects, got to love being on a ship now, and taking a 1000 dollar a month pay cut because I had to move out of the area I was in... Worked on the car today, replaced a lot of the burnt and...

Yup that I do.. she said the only reason she let me get the car was so she could help wrench on it roflmao.. plus she can outshoot all my guys at work which is funny to say the least... And to think, a lowly ol country raised navy sailor like myself could steal me a sexy british wifey who can...

Dart I think you hit the nail on the head. My wife walked out and looked at the mess today (she did electrical work in the british royal navy), and said shes not letting me drive it until everything has been rebuilt... She couldnt even trace half the stuff out.. I did check all the fuses, and...

Oh- and the funniest ghetto wiring I found all day, was the PO tied into the factory splice, not with solder, not with a crimp, but by wrapping a wire around the bare splice, electrical taping it, the using two butt connectors taped side by side to make a fuse holder for one of the square ATO...

You're in Easley Redfish? not too far at all brother. PM me when you get a chance, I might wind up giveing you a ring after I get the new wiring harness for some advice. Im bound and determined to do as much as I can myself, at least that way I know what is under the dashboard.. Well I dug into...

Wrong colors confuse me too Red, but when every other color under my dashboard is red, because the numbnuts owner used red wire to replace almost everything, im forced to do something.

Ok going to wait until payday, cars going to be Out of commision until then, going to get the painless mopar 21 circuit kit. Looks like its fused and relayed quite nicely (not sure if the headlights are on a relay??) going to order a new headlight switch, and maybe the ignition switch (dillweed...

well, heres where Im at. under the dash- coming out of aftermarket voltimeter- red wire, goes to a black wire under the dash (some wierd junction, started raining again, and is wrapped in electrical tape, so I didnt take it apart yet). black wire heads back to dash (thinking it might be one of...

in all honesty though, after seeing the mess that the wiring under the dash is in (factory wiring harness is there, but it looks like someone spliced in a second wiring harness) Im half tempted to go order a painless wiring kit and rebuild the entire thing. Im actually scared of this car's...

Dart, I broke out my schematics from my FSM. Ive got one of the OLD school Chilton's (from the 70's.. not a auto store special mind you, an actual Chiltons shop manual.) Ive got a fusible link on the firewall right at the starter relay POS stud. Going to check that. I also have a **** load of...

Well somethings not right.. decided not to cut the dash and install gauges today. Put everything back how it came out, hooked the battery up, then turned the headlights on. My aftermarket voltmeter jumped like it usually does, then went to zero, and no lights... WTF.... Ok where to start now...

Well redfish, the boards are getting removed today. The only things thats running off the board is going to be the fuel gauge, and lights for the speedo/vac gauge. I removed all the other gauges last night, and spent this morning cleaning and prepping the bezel for some paint. If anyone needs...

Just got done building out my distribution block. Tell me what you think. Im feeding small low amperage equipment out of it likes the lights on my aftermarket gauges, and a few other small things. The individual jumpers are 14 gauge, the input power wire is 10 (the larger wire in the center of...

Voltage drop test under hood was 1.2V before I pulled the dash... Im thinking some of it came from a burnt wire I found last night, and am going to track down today. Any suggestions Dart on a way to protect and fuse the remnents of my cluster?

Oh and if anyone needs my guages after I remove them, shoot me a message, my ammeter works fine, and most likely the other two do as well, just either bad wiring in the harness or a disconnect somewhere down the line.

discovered an issue, that I was able to fix in a half a second... was wondering why my gauge only goes down to 1/4 tank when empty or turned off. turns out the gauge works fine, the needle was bent a little bit.. adjusted it to read empty now. should fix that issue lol. I checked out mad...

Found some interesting repair work on the back side of the dash.. Take a look at the pins.... Looks like someone wrapped a small piece of copper wire around each of the pins, then soldered them onto the board... but didnt solder the wire to the pins, just a quick wrap around... Maybe some of my...

Well I pulled the dashboard out tonight (working on the gauge cluster anyways, and checking out the wiring behind the dash) surprisingly it only took me about ten minutes of work to snatch it out. So whats next? I think Im going to install my oil pressure, temperature, and voltage gauge in the...

Dart- I ran the tests you gave me. Im going to run a ground cable from my new VR to the neg post of the battery tomorrow as well, or can I tie it into the ground cable on the block?