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Hey MoparDude, yes I like it :) I ended up tearing the transmission apart over the winter and replacing the gears in it, the originals were pretty nasty, put new brass in it and filled it with syncromesh, it shifts great now, no more popping out of gear. Though it does sound loud in neutral, so...

Yup, did mine last night. Froze the shaft, heated the bearing on the woodstove and use a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter as the inner race of the bearing to drive in into place. Then fought with the snapring for about 30 minutes before taking a sanity break :)

Not trying to hijack but, i'm doing one now and my input shaft has loose needle bearings in it held in place by a ring. Do the later transmissions have a one piece bearing? Mine is an A-body 3.09 non OD.

Well, I didnt do a swap from a stock bell, its what I started with when I swapped out my 727. But another point on the clutch fork mount, it sits on a pad in the bell and the pad is to short, the heel of the mount hangs off the pad, I reinforced it with a small piece of steel: I also built my...

I have a LW on my 360 mangnum, and had to trim the passanger side of the bellhousing just a hair to fit my TTi's on.

Thanks! So, to install you would pull the bearing retainer and press this onto the shaft with the flanged end going on first till it bottoms out then re-install the bearing retainer? I assume the other sources of the leak can be fixed with a sealer and plumber tape? note: I have gear oil...

Has anyone ever used one of these? I'm leaking some gear oil from inside the bellhousing, figured it must be comming from the input shaft seal. http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ISRS-23&cat=269 How involved is it to install?

Thanks guys! I'm planning on driving it a couple hundred miles this weekend, we'll see what happens.

There was one more thing I noticed that I forgot earlier. I was checking the linkage and making sure everything was tight, and when tightening the 1/2 shifter tab nut on the stud I could move the tab/stud one position further towards the rear of the car this would cause the shifter to lock...

The guy that built it seems like a real standup guy, gave me a CD rom full of pictures of the rebuild. I do trust that it was all new. But, I have let him know, and am sure he'll get back to me. But I do value the wealth of experience here, so wanted to see what you all had for opinions...

okay, thanks guys. Guess i'll have to pull it and have a look since all the syncros were new.

The gears were reused, I did not drive the transmission, it was a core I got that I had rebuilt.

This is a newly rebuilt 833 non OD with the 3.09 first gear, running 90 weight gl-4 gear oil I'm having trouble with second and want to now if I should just baby it and hope it smooths out, or if something is really wrong. Here are some main points. 1) I can sit in the car with it running...

the switch is napa part # ns6571, maybe it will help someone out. I didnt see it in any search results on here..

sweet! thanks for the advice.

Have any of you ever had a back up light switch go bad in your 833? Mine seems to be shorting out, every time I put the transmission in reverse it pops the fuse, but if I take the plug off the two prong switch at the transmission and jump it all is well with the backup lights and the fuse. I...

You're right, luckily I had not welded the plate on the fender yet. I got it straightend out this weekend and all back together. I'm on the road again, so far everything seems good, shifts well with no grinding :cheers:

Well, it s been awhile, but thought I'd post some pics of the progress. I'm waiting on the carpet, drive shaft and p/s pump/pulley. Then I think the last think i'll need is the boot and bezel for the shifter. I ended up going with the mechanical clutch linkage because I aquired all the...

I believe the fork should be 12.5 inches long..

I'm not sure, they were in the car when I bought it. I'll try to remeber to take a closer look. And, yes, I may be looking to eventually sell the 3.91's.

Its been a couple of months, but last week I got my tranmission, and over the weekend I started bolting things together. After using .007 offset dowels to align the bellhousing the centerforce was torqued to the flywheel. While I had the housing off I welded a heel onto the fork pivot bracket...

Yeah, those are my TTi headers, just had 'em re-coated.

sorry, thats about the extent of my knowledge on that subject, but theres plenty of info out there. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm :burnout:

oh yeah, and if its early enough to be the ball and trunion type your slip yoke wont work with it.

some one will correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe the position of the shifter mounting pad is different, but i've seen people make there own bracket to correct for that. long tailshaft also means you'll need a shorter driveshaft, also doable.

thanks!

Guys,coud you elaborate on the fix for this a bit more? I'm putting a lakewood with block plate on my 360 magnum and would like to take care of this issue now rather than later. What exactly should I look for? I'm mocking everything up outside the car first. thanks, Mike

Curious about this also, since i'm doing a 4 speed swap from a 727, straight from the service manual....

The guys at brewers recommended I use a bushing like this over the roller bearing...

I know this isn't really 4 spd related, but thought I'd post some pics of the engine bay, I sprayed some paint yesterday since it's been 3-4 days of 70 plus degrees. I'm hoping to have the transmission by the end of the month, than the real fun begins.