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I guess I was just wondering if the SD5H14 was big enough to cool my car. It's listed as being used in compact cars.

Hey everyone. I bought HemiDenny's very cool low mount AC brackets for a small block and I'm just now getting around to install it. My question is what size compressor should I get that will fit in the brackets and cools the down the car quickly. Trying to decide on the Sanden H14...

It helps out a lot! I think the OP will be helped too. Thanks!

Thanks! I'll have to come up with some kind of an idler wheel where your power steering is.

Looks good! Where did you get the compressor bracket? What was the model number of the compressor that you used? And how well does it cool?

I use a 16 lb cap but I drilled some small holes in it to vent it. The cars were originally made with a vented cooling system and the reduced strain on the radiator is a good idea. I run straight water and drain the radiator after driving it.

Have you checked to see if a Sanden style compressor would work? Way better than an RV 2 compressor.

As long as its clean and in good condition it will be fine. You'll need a shroud too. I have the same radiator but a lower performing engine and my car runs at 180 all summer long.

I got my AC stuff out of storage this week. Its been sitting there since 2012. The dryer and expansion valve were bought new in 12 and will be replaced again. The hoses are 1967 vintage and will be replaced also. My hard lines are in great condition and will be reused. The evaporator is...

The RV2 is in very good condition but I think where I went wrong is buying a replacement condenser and not a multipass condenser for the R134a. I still want to replace the compressor to a Sanden model with the new condenser. Thanks.

Looks like the R12 in a Sanden is a no go. Since that's the case I'll need a new condenser for the R 134.

I thinking of putting my AC system back together this winter and need some advice. I have factory AC on my Barracuda and when the 273 was in it I completely resealed the RV2 and all new o rings, drier and expansion valve. I replaced the old condenser too. Everything was changed over to R134...

Not tot to hijack this thread but I was wondering if you just replaced the compressor with a Sanden and used the stock condenser what kind of cooling could you expect? Would it be that much better with a parallel flow condenser?

Good to hear it, I ordered one today.

Not touching the shroud, that would be really loud to bend a blade that much, and there's no marks on the shroud.

Here's another view looking down a blade. The crappy camera phone doesn't show the blade in full but it is bent. I put a straight edge on the length of the blade and it's about 1/2 inch gap at the tip on the worse one. Some of them are not as bad. I guess I'll be looking for a MP 5 blade fan...

Here's a picture of the engine side of the fan. Notice all the chipped off paint, that's where it's bending.

I'll post a pic as soon as I can. The reason I noticed it was that the paint was coming off in flakes. It doesn't seam to be out of balance as it doesn't vibrate that I can feel.

I have the steel seven blade clutch fan on my car and having an issue with it bending at the trailing edge. It cools the car great, even on the hottest days, but all the blades are bent a lot and it's got me worried. Do you think the blades could come apart? I'm thinking of switching to the...

I didn"t think the crankcase sump oil circulated through the system. I have the heads off of the compressor and I don't see any ports going to the sump.

Does anyone have an idea of how much oil I should put in the refridgerent lines of my AC system. I have 11 oz. in the RV 2 crankcase. But the system should be around 1.5 oz. I think.

I put some dye in the compressor Sunday and didn't see any leaks. Looked at it today and there was dye all over the head of the compressor. So i took off the head and the plate and ther was rust on the gasket surface on the head, plate and the compressor body. The seal was broken and leaking...

I have a 7 blade clutch fan with a shroud and the condensor is a stock type two row. I didn't add any insulation to the cabin but it is a factory AC car so it has tinted glass. I thought A bodys came with a cycling switch installed from the factory. I have 60 psi on the low side at idle...

Ok, I got my AC working today and the vent temps are to warm. It was 101 degrees with 40% humidity today and my vent temps are 75 degrees. Are these temps about normal or should it be cooler? What I've done so far is a new condenser, new drier. new expansion valve, resealed the compressor...

Found it Dan! I traced down the cable and it is attached to a bellcrank lever, by the blower motor resistor, and goes back to the left side of the radio. If it works might be a different story. Also, my car does not have a heater control valve on the inner fender, like other cars I've seen. Did...

I was driving the car Sunday and the ac compressor quit along with the fan. Check the fuse and it was good. Took the dash apart to get at the vacuum switch. Tried to test the contiunity and it's dead. Orderd a new one from NAPA, and it will be here Thursday. Checked the fan resistor and it was...

I'll have to look into that .

System was fully flushed and the compressor was dissassembled and all new seals installed. Filled with PAG 100 double end capped oil. The condenser is new also. I did not spray water on it. Being an 67 system there is no cycling switch, so it just runs till the evaporator freezes. All temps...

I changed over my RV-2 compressor to r134 along with the rest of the system. I charged it yesterday and have high readings on the gauges. Low side is 50 and the high side is 250 at idle. I only put 24 ounces of refridgerant in it and it calls for 42 onnces of r12. I'm way below the 85%...

Also your condensor was not made for r134. It will never cool as well as a modern parallel flow condensor.