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I used the 3m drycoat as my guide. I felt it got into the scratches better. I went to 600 wet then SPI reduced epoxy as a sealer coat. I was spraying metallic though. Never shot pearl before but would think smaller the scratches the better and still have some bite for the sealer coat. I think...

Yeah it’s just a little off and trying to get it prefect on these cars is a battle sometimes. OCD can’t always win.

New 68’ grill from YearOne and new front bumper from AMD. I’m having a little difficulty getting the drivers side to sit right. Wondering what the gap should be between the bumper and the grill. 1/4“, 3/8”, 5/16” etc? Also, is there a particular bolt and bracket tightening sequence? I know they...

Another satisfied SPI user!!! Nice job

Depends on how many coats you are talking. 2 coats clear just on the outside I think you could get away with it. You would be surprised how much you can go through in a short time. I wouldn’t use it over a lacquer unless you want to risk delamination. Better yet..... ask Barry about it and...

Mods. Worthy of a How to sticky?

I did a gallon kit. It was more economical that way. Plus I did an entire car inside and out. And I did 6 coats on the exterior. A gallon kit was plenty.

Power wash, degreaser in a spray bottle and scrubber, then dawn dish soap with little scrubber elves, wet sanded with 320. Repeat dawn dish soap, quality paint grade wax and grease remover as final wipe down before epoxy. Then paint of choice.

There is very little room to wrap tti headers in an early a body. Nearly impossible since the torsion bars pass through them. I had very little room with 340 t-bars.

Max wedge style or super stock maybe? Nothing too tall.

Here ya go. Give this a try. MC-160 High Gloss Ceramic Clear | Cerakote Clear

daves66valiant submitted a new Article: Trick to Install Hood to Fender Rubber Bumper Stops Read more about this article here...

The last 2 days of work. I sanded my original engine bay with 180. SPI Epoxy two coats then shot single stage in the topcoat window for this epoxy.

Reminder to myself that I can paint. Lol. Lost my painting notes for the SPI epoxy. Bam. FABO search result to the rescue. Hoping to get similar results with single stage on my 68 engine bay. Won’t be as glossy since it’s SS.

Same on mine. Original paint.

Yep already replied on that thread. I have a pint on order. MC-160. And a .8mm detail mini-gun. Together it can be useful for other things like my furniture woodworking.

Hell with all the vinyl wraps these days you can experiment all you want.

Will check this stuff out

I’ve been on the fence doing it. My piece is in really good condition. Just needs tlc. That’s why I was thinking of getting the tiny dents out and sanding out smooth to 1000 grit or whatever is recommended before dipping. I have experience stripping my 66 valiant grills and it is a *****. Nasty...

I’ve been to KOT’s shop about 10 years ago before they had to move iirc. They are in another planetary system with pricing because California fucks you on any of the environmental codes. Can just gets kicked down the road to the consumer. Not paying $1300 for a tail panel. I’d be fine fixing...

Anyone have a good tutorial/tips on restoring the tail panel on my 68 dart GT? Looks like the colors are Argent silver and black and some sections look anodized. Wondering if there is a step by step process for the diy guy. Thanks y’all.

Re-read the previous posts. Starting to go in circles here. No offense. Some of the super high end restorations they only use the epoxy then base/clear. Takes extra time but these are concourse restorations. $50k paint jobs. One more time in caps. SPI EPOXY!!!! Or try the vp2050. You won’t go...

I was recommended the same thing over their dp90 by my ppg paint store guy. He spoke highly of it.

Just use epoxy honestly and get coverage. Can go back to it anytime. I wouldn’t bother doing anything until I had the products needed but that’s me

The Perfect Paint Job 06/2013 Edition

Go to spi website and read tech article “The Perfect Paint Job” I followed it to the T just about. Barry is available for support as well with each step along the way. That support is what makes paying a tad more invaluable.

Sand to bare metal (media blast on mine) Epoxy 1:1 Filler/body work 2k primer to 600-800 Epoxy 1:1:little shot of reducer to make it into a sealer Base Clear 3 Coats Cut clear flat to remove any orange peel 400-600 grit Clear 3 more coats Cut 800,1000,1500,2000,3000 Buff A lot of fn sanding

With your intentions of a driving resto. One word. EPOXY!!!! It will hold up way better than anything else.

The red oxide from SPI is just the color. Black does the same thing with gray primer over it. Depending on what color you choose pick one that helps with coverage of your basecoat. I did my filler work directly to the epoxy.

If it does what it says that’s great. Cheap too. From what I’ve experienced, if you want a superior higher quality restoration paint product to build from I would use an epoxy to start. 2K primer that’s easy to build up. Sand. Then a reduced epoxy for a seal coat. Which will also provide...