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When I updated my duster to 3/8 fuel line, I ran the new line right next to the old, and hooked the stock line up as a return line

need to put some "sheepwool blue" paint on those heads

i would hope that within the last 2 and a half years, he got it taken care off :poke:

just convert it to carb and run it

could you use the same sender for both? just double up on the leads?

awesome that means you got the big block, but posted your question in the small block magnum section of our forum (I was afraid maybe you did have a magnum, in which case the HP numbers weren't unacceptable) don't freak out if this thread disappears, one of our moderators is bound to move it...

post a pic of the engine (I still want to know where the distributor sits)

318willrun gave you 4 good tips, which are all free and possibly the awnser to your problem an you go straight to the $4000.00 answer? do the simple and free stuff first stupid question for you, when you pop your hood, is the distributor on the front or on the rear of the engine?

i got a powermaster in my bronco great alternator, putting out 138 amps at idle, 150 at 1500 RPM simple conversion, but as '67 pointed out, the charge wires need to be up to the task

perfect excuse to drop a big block in instead

naah, not really

you know what, i missed the part where your doing a magnum swap chat with @rumblefish360 , he is doing a magnum swap and ive seen the clutch fan on his build

yes

That might make for a decent winter beater (That, or the 3.5 v6 awd drive train from an late 2000s charger or 300)

So...is the stud to wide to fit into the insert? (Trying to picture the problem here) Or do you mean the nut bottoms out on the stud before it pinches and seals the gasket? (That makes no sense, it wouldn't damage the gasket, but it would seap all over)

sounds like your doing it right (seems to me most valve covers leak because people torque them down like they're installing headbolts)

are the valve covers true? what are you torquing them down to?

Watch it be something stupid...a wrench slipped down and is interfering with the hinge or something

you start by telling her, it is not you, its me

I actually just relocated the ballast resistor from the ignition system to my wiper motor (it was only working on hi speed, and this solved the issue)

i would imagine he deleted that when he swapped in the magnum?

nevermind, just read the scramspeed description...it does say 360 LA pan

so...where in the article does it say which displacement oil pan to use ? because we know the back side is the one that is different between the 318-340 and the 360 and that's where your having issues? unless I'm overlooking it, perhaps this only works with the 318-340 pan?

what displacement is the pan for ? and the gasket ?

I actually came on here because I didn't remember doing a magnum swap and the title made it look like i had something to do with it ;) then when I saw you were using that piece of kindling for an airfliter, I figured I would give you a heads up but, if your fine with an engine fire, as long as...

but that style aircleaner you're using is a great first step ;)

if there is an anti drain back valve, it would be in the actual filter itself I bet a quick google search of the oil filter part number will tell you

lol, I figured there was a little more to it

if your mechanical fuel pump blows oil all over your engine, I'm thinking it wasn't hooked up to the right line :poke:

that's what, 2 Hondas?