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I may very well be mistaken, but to the best of my knowledge they don't make any stainless headers that FIT A bodies In fact, the only ones that fit are Doug's or TTIs And those can come coated, but not stainless

Didn't they make a song about that ? Do your pipes hang low Do they wobble to and fro...

i dont know if you'll be able to find any good videos, but its pretty straight forward if you look at the K member, where the mounts fit, you will see the holes they go through are slotted loosen both the motor mount bolt up and you can move the engine with a jack or a cherry picker if that...

I just reread the post, you have the 72 K member, that means you have the biscuit style motor mounts, right? If you get a set of truck mounts (or even just one on the driver's side) you should be able to create some extra room Plus, you could slide the entire engine over half an inch or so

Just get yourself a 8 3/4 from an early A body and it should come with the proper hardware (it has been too long for me to remember if im running 9 or 10 inch drums on mine, but they are definitely SBP)

i run my 408 through a set of pypes as well

Mine exits just before the rear tires, and shoots out at a decent angle...never an issue with fumes or oil I run a set of pypes mufflers and it sounds awesome

not too worried what to cops think about exhaust, around here they wont stop you for that, so i couldnt even tell you if im legal or not now, if i were acting the fool, yeah, they might look but i never gave em an excuse as for sound, i like the M80s, not too loud, and almost sounds modern...

This is what I run https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/before-the-axle-turn-downs.458038/

i just looked over your build thread and i dont want to help you anymore...im too jealous all kidding aside, it looks like you got the exhaust and fuel line ran allready, and it looks good to me short of adding a return, i dont see much room for improvements

so you went up from 2.5" to 3" inch exhaust, which moved the exhaust 0.25" closer to the fuel line/pump...correct? and i presume we are talking about the rear section of the car, roughly by axle at that point there is still some heat left in the exhaust, but nothing close to the under hood...

look up the "slant 6 fuel line mod" to get an idea on what the factory did there, how modern gas doesnt like it, and what people did to remedy that then consider how to carry it over to your application IMHO the best thing you can do is install a return style fuel system to keep fuel...

how many inches from the passenger side valve cover to the firewall ? and keep in mind there is a bit of adjustment left to right in the engine mounts you want to start out centered and move the engine where you need it

I used a truck mount to get the 408 in my /6 K member The Doug's fit like a glove

Willing to bet $686.78 on that? :poke:

If I had spend $500.00 on a set of headers and they needed a pipe crushed to fit, they were going back In my book, that does not count as "fit"

Did you hog out the manifold aswell?

I dont know, haven't spoken to him in years I'm thinking I may have one of the last engines he build

not a blueprint, but a MRL 408

but hes in australia, so isnt it facing us?

that looks great (but then, i might be prejudiced)

too bad you live way out west, i got a full summit kit sitting in the garage

any and all powder coating questions should be directed to the Mistress herself @CudaChick1968

i ran a bolted summit kit for 5 years, then when it had to come off...i unbolted it i dont see a need to weld it

thanks i got the tips off ebay, the listing is not longer up, but they are 12 inch long stainless 2.5 inch in, 3 inch wide tips the "build thread" for that part of the exhaust is here before the axle turn downs | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum (you can see i started out with them turned...

i run 2.5 with Pypes M80 mufflers and out the side, in front of the rear wheels sounds great, almost modern

there are plenty of members on here who are more knowledgeable on the /6 then i (like @slantsixdan ) but i think you are wrong the sole purpose of that "bowl" is to provide a warm spot to house the choke thermostat this is basically a bimetal spring which will pull the choke off when it warms...

so, are you saying you need this to stop an exhaust leak, or did you buy a new exhaust manifold to replace one that was leaking?

If it's a gasser you need fenderwell headers

so how much room do you have for the pipes, between the tires and the fuel tank? you may have to look into something like this Summit Racing SUM-640304 Summit Racing® Exhaust Pipe Adapters | Summit Racing