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Last time I was at the track, I got some wheel hop and busted a tooth off my ring gear. Plus, when I took it apart, I found two teeth gone on the spider gears. For starters, check the torque on the pinion nut, but probably the center section needs to come out for diagnosis. I drove it home like...

Is the car already a manual trans car, or is it an automatic? Read this: http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml Scroll down and the info you want is right there.

What the hell? Damn dude, no matter how much I love my car, I DO "abuse" it. That's what I built it for. Geez, why have a four speed? Just bustin' your balls.. ;-) Check clutch departure with a feeler gauge. I think you want .060 IIRC

It certainly could. If you're saying that you're out of adjustment on the clutch pushrod, that tells me your lower arm of the Z bar is probably too far away from the clutch fork. For whatever reason. I was very careful to assemble mine with all new bushings, roller bearings in the pedal...

I have a set of pedals from a 69 Barracuda. They have some confounded needle bearings in them. Next time I take them apart, I'm going with bronze bushings. Check out McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeve-bearings/=aupule

Yes. ;-)

Take it apart, be careful to keep track of what goes where. Clean it, lube it with some grease, and reassemble. If you do it carefully, it's really easy. The shifter levers MUST be returned to their neutral position before you can move the shifter through the gate (to 3-4 position).

Hurst Super Shifter if you don't care whether or not it fits. It has shorter throws and straight linkage. If you do care about cutting up the tunnel and torsion bar crossmember, then go with Competition Plus. Nothing at all wrong with that.

True, true. I removed my over-center spring and I'm using a centerforce dual-friction. Easy pedal effort compared to the stock setup.

Offset dowels will bring it back in alignment. I think the concentricity was .006 on mine. You're also supposed to check the FACE of the bell housing to make sure it's perpendicular to the crank. I forget the specs, but my Centerforce came with a sheet that said what the tolerances were for...

Sounds like not enough clutch departure. As I recall, you said you moved the pivot point for the bellcrank to match the bell housing... The inner fender has a hole where the ball stud should go. You can get different brackets and ball studs for the bell housing to match. Is something funky with...

Same setup in my car. It doesn't run yet, but the pedal presure is very light. I removed the over-center spring from the clutch pedal, accoring to Centerforce instuctions, and still the pedal is easy.

My Duster had a four speed and a bench, but I didn't take a picture. My avatar is as close as it gets, and that doesn't show the bench. Due to a lack of funds, the Duster will probably end up the same way! It depends on your shifter handle how well it looks and feels. Some will run into...

I suppose... If the clutch is all properly assembled, it sounds like it's time to pull the trans and crack it open. If you never had it open, it's probably a good idea anyway - just so you know what shape it's in. www.brewersperformance.com will have everything you need.

Did you use a new clutch?