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The pictures showed up blurry but I have them if anyone needs them

This is all the information I’ve gathered over the past few years. If anyone wants to add to this. Please do

It’s a whole lot more information I can’t post it yet. But it was adding a psi rated adjustable fuel safety switch to lock up the converter. The information is sort of all over the place as some said it locks on its own and some say to make it adjustable. I’ll post what I’ve got and maybe...

From what I understand It’s a preventative device to shut the converter lock up off. When I’m towing mode I got very busy in life and didn’t have time to mess with the car. Now I’m going back through it and replacing stuff to get it back on the road. So I’ll be revisiting this as well. I...

I feel a lot better about this. I’m glad I don’t have to mess with it. I’ll see how it goes. supposed to be a pretty nice transmission. I went through it and put a shift kit in it that’s 1 level above stock.

I have a 999 transmission in my 69 dart. It came out of an 87 van. it’s got a switch on the back of it that looks like a temp sender. It’s not a temp sender. It operated the lock up clutch on the torque converter. However……I don’t know how it operates the lock up. im getting a lot of mixed...

I tightened them to 72inch and backed off 2 1/2 for the kick down and 4 turns back for the reverse. They seem better than the first time. I’ll run The temp on the rear port. I’m looking to control the TDC lock up on the governor port with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I haven’t found...

The snap rings were on when pressure was applied to test. However....I did shoot an accumulator piston across the room. No snap rings on that one. An oil pressure gauge? I was going to run that out of the line pressure port coming out of the accumulator but just to test it. I don’t have one...

I read a lot of stuff. Some of it good and some bad. Then post it here and you set the record straight. someone really did say that if you put too much pressure on the seal they turn inside out and how would I know. I’m new to this process. I guess it makes sense. The forward clutch probably...

Yeah, it’s got that side to side rattle. It’s good play forward and backward. I did the spec on the band adjustment and this time it ended up perfect. I can see that it’s right. Also....when I apply the air it locks tight. Release and it will spin but it’s still pretty close the the drums. I...

Now.....to work through getting the bands adjusted correctly. I’ll go with spec and see where I’m at this time.

I think I’m finally done. after applying the clutch packs with 50psi pressure several times. The forward clutch set is .042 after putting in the .085 snap ring The direct clutch packs are sitting at .096 with a .062 snap ring .......this one I could have gotten down to .081.....I figured that...

Got an air compressor. Checked them again with 80psi to the stack and a sealed rubber tipped nozzle and held it there a few times. The forwards have .060 clearance The direct has .116 clearance So I’ll get a .075 snap ring for the forward and the .085 for the direct. Which should bring...

what Does that have to do with clutch clearance?

.040 on the forward drum.....using the .085 snap ring .082 clearance in the direct drum .....using a .076 snap ring These are also fully soaked frictions. I don’t know how much that matters. Probably doesn’t

I put the straight .062 snap ring in the forward clutch. It gives me .063 clearance. Still not spec. The .076 ring would give me .049 The .085 ring would give me .040 Which one would be best? The clutches and steels are new and I measured all of them. They are factory spec

No. The .045 is the thickness of the metal. I was guessing that when the clutch was applied. The wave became straight. So I measured the metal thickness as if it was straight. I’m not really sure if it flattens out. I can throw the straight one in there and use that for a better guide. I’ll do...

I took the other one apart. It has two wave rings at .045 This wouldn’t give me anything on the closer side. I’m thinking a flat snap ring on the forward clutches of .076 or .085 Giving me .41 or .32 On the direct clutch.....the one in there is .062 If I run the .076 I can get a clearance of...

Wish I’d thought of that. I did get the 8 point sockets for it. Have to get the end play and clutch packs right and then I’ll focus on the bands. Thank you for the cool idea. All I know to do for the servos is tighten them to spec and loosen them. I don’t really kno the resistance or the feel...

Between the two transmissions. That’s the one thing I did mix up was the retaining rings. I can pull the other one back apart and check the sizes of those or I can just order some rings that will close the gap. The .75 or the .85 should bring the forward clutch to mid .040 and the other one at...

The waved snap ring is .045

- - The forward clutch pack is .072 and was taken on the high part of the waved snap ring. The spec is .032 to .055 I did not air check it as I still don’t have a compressor. - This is the 5 clutch direct. The spec is .096 and is within he spec of .075-.152 It has a straight snap ring.

I had it all put together and after all the advice from you guys. I decided I needed to be a little more patient with it. I made some pump guide pins from cutting off bolt heads. Then tapered them and rounded them for better pump installation. I was able to line the pump up and get the gasket...

How far should the go up? Also.....how many miles before a transmission is broken in?

The band movement.....is about 1/8

Another question is the speedometer seal. I’ve always used a regular seal with a little clip. With some of the parts I got. It came with the metal spring clad seal. It fits into the bore very tight. I didn’t put it all the way down. It’s still sitting on the surface. I think it’s the wrong...

How do you guys torque the kickdown band down. The reverse band is a double wrap and I can torque that down with a socket head that works. I’ll try to do that today and see where it sits. I remember doing it correctly and the transmission wouldn’t even move.....it was torqued to 72 inch pounds...

I’ll post pictures of how I got the gear train end play and the measurements of the snap rings. The .008 would not fit. If I had gotten .012 I would have run that one....it shows .005 as the tight side as spec. But .030 seems perfect.

When I measured the gear train end play. I put the gear train together with the appropriate snap ring. THen held it upside down and measured the gap between the rear ring gear and the output shaft. With the .087 snap ring I got not even .008 clearance. My feeler gauge set wouldn’t go smaller...

Put the .065 snap ring in for the gear train end play. I get .032 clearance. It’s much better. I put the .085 in and got about .002 Put the rest together. Running .012 total end play. Seems really tight. Have to use pliers to get it to move. Everything is new. Clutches and thrust washers...