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I used a VW cv joint boot and had the trunnion pressed off and back on at a machine shop. Was actually quite easy but you need a pretty big press for the trunnion. The guy used a penny to get it all centered up but don't remember just how he did that. I do remember it was used for thickness.

When I did my /6 to 273 conversion last year I got a 10" clutch and pressure plate from autozone that worked with my 9 1/2 " flywheel, Bolted right up and used a 3 finger pressure plate. I had to swap out the shitty throw out bearing so if you use that set up buy another bearing that's made in USA

Autozone has some nice tachs for about $40.00 that are easy to install. Basically 3 wires -- coil and lights -- maybe a 4thg for ground -- don't remember. Any shifter should work. I wouldn't clean anything. Drain and fill with 90 weight fossil gear oil. Mancini racing or Brewers performance...

Well I finally gave in and tool the flywheel to my machinist to drill and install a helicoil. It took the torque no problem.

It's all together--finally. Hope to actually install this weekend

Well, I couldn't get a wheel cylinder hone in it so I used the dremel with a bunch of polishing brushes. It took some time but I now have the smoothest input bushing on earth and the trans finally slides in..

I have a stripped bolt hole in my flywheel and was wondering if anyone out there had been successful getting JB weld to hold 30# of torque? Besides taking it to get it welded and retapped, anyone have any other suggestions? Helicoil is not an option.

I've finished building a 273 that was an automatic. Crank appeared to be drilled for an input shaft bushing. I went through 3 stock style bushings before realizing that the hole in the crank wasn't drilled and finished large enough for the stock bushing. I ordered an undersize bushing from NAPA...

Where are the spring perches?

aren't the bbody rears wider than the a bodies. The old fords were almost exactly the same width and spring perches were the same -- no alterations.