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Besides the $$$$$ MSD light its hard to find one that works on multispark . Strange since there are so many cars with MSD style ignitions .

The Innova will not work with MSD style ignitions .

Excellent thread !

Too technical for me to follow. Why not just install a switch in the iginition circuit ? Use a flasher switch that matches your year and model . Thats what I used for my electric fuel pump and 3 step burnout rpm limiter.

No I meant entire B/RB distributors.

I have a bunch of spare small block distributors ( would like to acquire some B and RB ) and parts including new reluctors, pickups, various advance plates and rotors , spring kits etc…. I follow your posts and try to learn what Ican .

Nothing wrong . I will solder a distributor plug to the boxes wiring and wanted to get it right the first time without a lot of messing around soldering then resoldwring . (******* spell check !) thats it I am turning it off ! ….

LOL…. Duh… I really do know the difference between a reluctor and a pickup

Is there a way to verify the positive/negative terminals of the reluctor with a multimeter ? I know the wire colors are sometimes mixed up or different.

Cool … maybe I can get up to 8 mpg then . Lol Is there a specific type of coil I should use ? Can I just unplug the existing Mopar electronic from the distributor and plug the Jacobs in ?

Saw this on CL for $20 and figured it was too cheap to pass up. Plan is to use it for my 78 Dodge Motorhome 440. It did not come with a coil but I have many coils including an Accel Super Coil and a Ford unit that came with an HEI setup I got from Trailbsast .

Take the drivers seat out . The best 4 nuts you will ever remove …lol

Make sure you have the wiring to support 100 amps so it won’t fry your bulkhead connector.

Yes . But you will need to verify how much advance it provides and when it starts ( inches of vacuum ) it comes in at . The MSD digital ignition allows you to program mechanical advance but you willneed to lock outthe distributor.

This is why I have extra distributors on hand .

Sounds like its a electronics glitch . I cant think of any way that it could advance mechanically . And then retard ??? Nope .... maybe Vacuum can sticking then slowly releasing over time but it sounds like that has been addressed

Could this low vacuum be due to an incorrectly installed cam ?

Try moving to a 9.5 or 10.5 power valve and dropping 5 jet sizes . I run an 8.5 on a 246/250 @ .050 solid roller on 108. Have you done a compression check ? Should be 180+ psi

You should have around 12-17" of vacuum at 750 rpms .

Without knowing the cam specs / intake or actual vacuum reading its hard to determine where to start .

Seems like the circuitry would be simple enough to be reproduced .?

Find a decent used one and go thru it. Untape it and look for breaks/bad terminals ... repair and retape. They are pretty simple.

I made both the linkage and fuel line .

Like so ?

How did that dual plane work out ?

Funny ... we have near identical 69 Swingers with 408 W2 engines .

What is your idle set at ?

Yes that is correct. I had the box set at zero and curved a dizzy for temporary use. Now I have the software setup on my laptop and will download the settings to the box. I also have 3 rev limiters . 1 for max rpm , 1 for burnout that is connected to my linelock and 1 for launch which is...

Wont that mess with your idle slots and transition ? Your idle will be so high that you wil need to competely back out the idle screws.

I have my idle set at 850 rpms so I am barely off idle at 1000 rpms . But I may try moving the baseline to 18*. I just dont want to screw up the idle transfer slot position or have it idling at 1000 rpm . I will be hooking my vacuum advance to a ported source ( only source) so that will kick...