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With high spring pressures and psycho rollers a few. That's why I epoxy magnets in the heads and block as a safety measure. I guess it depends on how hard you push your equipment.

I don't think they are needed. One thing i don't like about full rollers is if you ever break a rocker arm the needles go everywhere. On street motors I run 273 adjustable rockers and have run them to low 12s in the quarter and never hurt one.

That is entirely possible. Check for seal/guide to retainer clearance issues. I think you'll find it very close. I normally cut down all guides and install teflon seals, which if done correctly will eliminate any retainer to guide clearance problems. If I remember correctly you may run into...

It is not that big a deal to put a roller in a SB Chrysler. The only thing that must be done is to restrict the oil to the lifters because some roller lifters will uncover the oil holes in the lifter bores. Two ways of doing this. 1 use the Mopar oil restriction kit which involves installing a...

The 273 rockers will hold up well to the abuse. I put a thousand + runs on the same set in a 7000 rpm small block, plus street use. I still have 'em too. Depending on who did your valve job, you could have uneven valve heights because they may have sunk a valve or two to clean up the seats...

Being that close to the deck where the head bolts will really be pulling on it I would say no, don't bother. All the time and money spent to build an engine just to have it start leaking again, i would seach for another block. It can be done though.

I would play it consevative. I like your thinking though and I know .036 will work but still like .040. But then again being a steel rod low RPM motor to get the full quench affect the .036 would be better, marginally. OK, not much help, I know. 6 of one half dozen the other. Go with .040. No...

Before I switched the 8 3/4 to a Dana 60, ladder bar/leaf spring set-up, and added a factory alternator, the car with me in it weighed 3398. I haven't weighed it since these additions so I'm guessing just over 3500 lbs race weight. The car is all steel with the exception of the front bumper...

After having lots of fun the first part of racing season, it all started going down hill in July. I developed an internal water leak. First time around new head gaskets and a dose of block sealer cured it for 5 weeks. Then it happened again, more water. Tore it apart again and pressure checked...

Thanks, but i'm absolutely drooling over your car. Where was the video taken?I need to get me some of your horsepower. I have scored a 4.5 inch billet crank but not sure if im going to pony up for a good block or use it at all or if it will even fit. How did you get 572 cubes, what...

I am currently in the planning stages of the next BB for my racecar. Looking for some high 9's, low 10's. Has anybody here run a crankshaft from Ohio Crankshaft or know anybody that has? The price is attractive yet i'm concerned about the quality. Its hard to tell without actually seeing one in...

LOL, That's going to one heavy Neon. It'll probably ride like a tank too.

Speeking of tanks. 30 cylinder tank engine

OK a plane engine.lol But the one in back of the Dart was an Allison. Put there by the Michigan Madman.Also put a small block shitty in a motorcycle

Tanks

It's fairly simple John. You put the pointers in the dimple on each end of the rod bolt and zero the indicator. Now you tighten the nuts until the stretch gauge reaches the recommended stretch. Check with the bolt manufacturer but if I can remember right the recommended stretch is in...

I would shoot for the midle of the tolerance with a stick, .005ish. Did you tap the crank back and forth with a rubber mallet to center the thrust bearing? This usually gives a bit more clearance than just bolting the cap down. .012 seems a little high for me, but then again everybody has their...

Mildly ported 915's with no hardened seats. It should be fairly easy to find this time because it filled the cylinder when cold. Don't know about the rust because I haven't dug into it yet. I hope it is the heads and not the block because if it is the block I am starting over because this is...

If you want you can ship that 400 short block here and I'll break it in for you. I'll be real gentle with It promise. :twisted:

New headbolts, freshly decked heads and block, new head gaskets, no nitrous ever, and mildly ported heads. I either have a cracked head or block, either way it sucks this late in the season. Time to upgrade.

I'm pumped for you. The thought of getting a new engine running always gets me pumped, even if it's not mine. The best of luck to you.

That is great John. You must be excited. This thing will be an animal.

I'm bummed and need to vent. Water leaks suck. I think I'll get a volkswagen, air cooled no water. I have been fighting a "small" internal water leak this year. The engine has been apart twice for inspection with no signs of any kind of anything. At first i noticed "milk" in the valve...

I don't know if it snows there or not but they sure grow a lot of corn.

I'm concerned about the "mildly froze" part. Put if they were able to break it loose than it may be fine. When i first read this I thought you meant "froze" as in ice. But seeing you are in TX i guess not. I live in cold and ice country and have seen many times what "freezing" (as in cold)...

Enough said. #-o You can also use a stock bolt in this location instead of a stud. Sounds crude but it works.

400+ hp will happen. I have had good luck with Comp's XE cams. Maybe someday down the road step up to one a little more aggresive. They are very responsive. You should be very happy with this combo.

I would use the 1008's also. Good gaskets.

Does the crank sprocket on you engine have three keyways on it? If so each keyway will have two marks, one to mark the keyway and one to line up the dots with. One is to retard the cam, one for straight up, and one to advance the cam.The one next to a keyway should not be used to line up the...

Stiff fibre goes between the head of the large bolt and the adapter. Cork goes between the adapter and the block.