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Following this one.. I'm having the very similar issues with a 71 Duster. Problems with adjusting park, working once then not working next cycle. wont start in P, just N Also have noticed button not going far enough for 1st.( sometimes it does but the next time it wont) Am going to check all...

I did, I thought he meant it. Some people believe in Manny, Joe and Moe.

?? What's that have to do with a good product and good service? Note-I've been using Paul (T/A) since 1971...... shift kits, transmissions, torque converters and parts. 100% success with all items, no failures, no returns, no rework.

Leaking on the left side? Valve body shaft selector seal

it is correct

When you shut the car off, have you ever experience engine "run on", where i whheezes and turns backwards?

what he said...i'm a bit slow typing

in photo #2, there should be a 3/8 ball on top of that spring,bottom left corner, but it is inside when the two halves are together....do you have a shift kit installed? the one i think it is is on the top, about 2 inches inboard of the center of the shift shaft.there is a little hump(with...

it's not an inside spring and ball it is the spring and dent ball that is on the outside, let's the shift lever move one notch at at time through each gear. someone will attach a picture

i've been using Turbo Action stuff since 1971... shift kits, valve bodies, convertors, etc wore one transmission out (14 years) 0 failures Paul and Hallie are good folks

10-4, i thought you just swapped the chunk and we could rule out the axle bearings..... all the bearings are suspect. ..a lift would be good, so as get under it while someone worked the gas and another could check with stehasope(or screwdriver)\ at each bearing location to locate the offender

did it make ANY noise with the 2.76's i don't think swapping chunks would need much (if any) adjustment. ...not enough to cause instant axle bearing noise

i had a problem two years ago with a used pressure plate from a friend..turned out to be bolt stuck inside the finger area.

large bolt pattern (4.5 inches) ...desirable because it opens up the available wheels with that particular rear end (B-body) you can bolt on the mustang bullet 17 inch wheels and about a 275 x17 tire...(or bigger, just measure) switch the front over to 4.5 (lbp) and with a 73 & up upper...

$3600-$3800 or 900-950 gallons of gas @ $4.00

38.58 from the chart at moparts.com tech section

no looks like a couple of hours on a saturday afternoon........ why do you need to change it?

FROM 1971 book kickdown, loosen lock nut and back off approx 5 turns. Test adjusting screw for free turnign in the lever. ..if adapter C-3705 is NOT used , tighten adjusting screw to 72 Inch-lbs. back off adjusting screw 2 turns. hold adjusting screw in this position and tighten lock nut...

small yoke is 7260 style i think the large one is 7290 i seem to remember the nut size on the yoke is the key to he spline count..it was in a post reply by Dr diff and if you rebuild a 489 case, get the solid spacer($30) to put in place of the collapseable crush spacer

you can leave it in the car, but if it's out already then a stand or bench is good.. da ya have an inch pound torque wrench?

a gear set 195-227, bearings and shims 95-125 and clutch posi rebuild kit 60-75....350-427 retail if it was a real good gear set(higher price) there should be no noise or so very little it's not bothersome...provided it's set up correctly ...the popping noise your hearing when turning sounds...