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Have tapped the hole and cleaned it will acetone and q tips,

Thanks all, no water in it currently, rebuilt it, started dripping on the run stand during break in, snugged it up and the stud pulled out of the block, now the oil pan off, balancer, timing chain etc... for one bolt lol

Advice on sealer for insert after stripped water pump/timing cover bolt hole. Stripped one of the block through bolts near the water passage for the water pump. Have the hole drilled and tapped for EZ locks which went surprisingly very well. I usually use red rtv for threads in water jackets...

Honestly if I had it to go again I would have ran stamped, picked up a few 340’s in pick, that came with two sets of 273 rockers and no stamped rockers or shafts, figured they would be easy to run, already had them ect... ordere the push rods, the the rockers were touching the springs and have...

have a 340 put togeather, has hydrolic cam and lifters, 273 rockers, used the cup ball pushrods summit sells for this set up and the length was good, these pushrods do not have a oil hole, they are cup and ball but solid, will enough oil run down them or pool in the lifters to get and keep them...

Thansk for all the info, ended up leaving them on and putting a decent amount of RTV all around them,

On the 340 real main seal, the two little tabs, points, nipples, etc.. that stick out of each side of the rear main cap, do u cut them flush with the cap or put the oil pan gasket on top of them, they seem thick and hard enough to cause the oil pan gasket to possibly not lay flat even when...

The heaviest rod and piston combo was 35 grams over stock, when I picked up the engin i didn’t know the history it was already machined, rebuilt jheads, block bored, and stock rods machined but with stock bolts and low compression pistons, I don’t trust old bolts but since the rods were already...

Think I am going to spring for a balance job, if I wanted to go cheap would have went Chevy right lol.. it’s forged crank, summit balancer for internally balanced motors

Going to try and not touch the pistons, I knew and didn’t plan on the speed pros being light pistons just didn’t expect them to be 25grams heavier than stock, figured they would be close to stock as I have read a lot of people run those with stock rods to avoid balancing. Knew the rods should be...

Rebuilding a 340, getting close to assembly and have a few question on rod/piston/balance weight. The rods are stock rods, have been reworked, new bolts etc.. I have the speed pro 10-1 compression pistons that are supposed to be a close stock replacement weight. Have heard and looked up that...

Thanks all for a lot of good info, definitely gives me a starting point to start digging,

Easily .500 lift***

It will be street 98 percent of the time. But want it drivable but as hot as I can get it within reason and be drivable, don’t care about gas milage ect as it’s not going to be a main mode of transportation, thinking a manual VB 904, not sure on stall yet as I have a line on a converter but may...

The build is a mild 340, Speed pro 10.1 pistons 60 over, stock rods, 65 ish CC mildly ported 202 jhead, performer RPM, no carb yet but leaning 750 DP, Q1- picked up this and a few 340s in a lot it came with few sets of 273 rockers, other than cupped push rods are there any other issues running...

Marco and nm9 the L2136F pistons are they stock weight for a forged or cast crank or does it matter, I am going to go with these so I don’t have to rebalance, I have a cast crank that would have stock come with the 8.5/1 pistons, would switching to these 10.5/1 pistons is that same weight? or if...

Hit “post”prematurely, performer rpm intake and was looking at some of the lunati cam and lifter kits,

Thanks for the info, will probably spring for new pistons, For at least a while the heads will be 1.88 J heads since they were already rebuilt with the machined 340, planned on doing some port work to make best of them, I have a set of unrebuilt x and j heads with two other less bor, performer rpm,

Thanks for all the geat info, I measured (with a Harbour Freight micrometer) they came out to 1.230 and with adding the .492 came out to 1.722, so from above if they are 8.5-1 would it be a big difference to run a better piston, also what’s the ideal for a hot street car 10.5?

pretty sure based in searching threads they are Silvolite, the only markings is the 60 over and a B296 on the inside. I came across an insane mostly Mopar parts hoard, one of the 340’s I picked up had been machined, crank turned (to not sure what) and 1.88 j heads rebuilt but I don’t think they...