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Val, Del, you guys can confuse a novice with the back and forth. For the novice's sake, I tend to agree with Del. Don't screw with the gear. Pull the cap and note location of rotor, drop the new distributor in with the button located at that spot. Easy enough.

Still giving you the problems, Mike? I was hoping that since I didn't hear from you we'd gotten the problems licked. Sorry about that, guess I should have made a follow up phone call. Let me do some more digging and see what I can find. For both problems.

tell your voltage regulator to stop looking at the hot babes thread...:-D

Like I said, most parts houses should have one. I bought mine specifically for COP ignitions, but it's been handier than hell for everything else, too.

If it hasn't been converted away from Mopar's ignition, the ballast is external. Little white thing with a bracket on the firewall with some wires coming out of it. It'll look something like this.

Agreed. Might I suggest a cheap tool for checking spark through the wires, though, so you don't wind up getting bit? Some guys get bit once from the old tried and true screwdriver method and are shy of diving back in there. Can be had at most parts stores for less than $10.

One of the reasons you see big truck manufacturers, KW, Pete, Freightliner, etc, throw them on the marker lights and not the headlights. Still accomplishes the job without the side effects. Still, all in all, if you're worried about it there's a position on the headlight knob for one click...

Is that the reason they all have back up systems? Because they're perfect to begin with? Seems to me running two systems as a fail safe shows a failure rate. I think the gist of what was being said was that of "your results may vary." You've had good luck with MSD, others haven't. I've had...

Gotta agree. Very professional looking.

And you point out the flaw in the system with HEI that sometimes gets overlooked: the module itself. As unreliable as some claim the ballast to be (I've never had a problem with one, guess I've been one of the few) the GM guys will cuss the module. If it's not treated correctly or installed...

Used to have this problem with a the IDS not communicating with Fords. Check the fuse which powers the DLC.

And you sound so surprised!

By the way: I wanna see pics of the M-body:iconbigg:

Personally, I do it just for the reliability of it. Hard to beat the old ECU set up. Not really sure about performance, though. Most of the cars Pop and I have done this swap on have been 318 two barrel cars and a couple of 318 four barrel engines. So performance is kind of relative. Noticed a...

My '74 E-body had it, too. Eliminated a long time ago. Think I still have it around here somewhere. It was a government thing, supposed to keep the car from cranking unless the seatbelt was hooked. Got dropped after a year or so because of it's unreliability. Seems that even the government types...

That was my thinking. You can pick 'em up at just about any parts store for around $20.

Did you say it's points? You left the key on all night in the run position on a points car? You might have just created yourself another problem and fried the points. Better check 'em while you're in there!

did a google search and there web link goes right to Accel...

Thanks for posting this site. Was thinking of this today and wondering about which mag it was in and having to find it. I apologize for the interruption, now back to the thread.