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Cracked back has the bushings.

If your driving it around on the street.more, you may want to unlock your distributor and get a 10* advance bushing. Driving at low rpm with locked out timing isn't good. Low cylinder pressure with increased temp.due to timing can cause preignition type issues. Just a thought. And I am guessing...

Bad Sport... Holley 950 HP carbs have ZERO vacuum ports... I don't think there is one for the PCV. Gotta use a spacer plate with a vacuum nipple.

Yep as stated a header evacuation system does not work as well as a PCV. BTW, you're right I assumed you had only one PV. On a street driven car, it works better to have 1 even though they come with 2. The 950 HP is designed to run WOT 95% of the time. Being that you aren't, I would change...

I love how the web diagnosis has been going on for a LONG time, alot of hot air being blown around, and yet for less than $12 IN parts, you could TRY A PCV SETUP and eliminate this as a variable???? WHAT THE HELL??? So tired of people talking about things and discounting something without...

Listen to Crackedback.... Best knowledge ever. A simple way to determine what converter is needed, have your stall just about 200 rpm above the beginning powerband of the cam. This is a rough idea but gets you in the ballpark. If your 508 cam was stalling going into gear with the stall...

Sounds like a bad distributor. Get either a pertronix distributor(not just module, but whole distributor) or an MSD one. You can limit your mech advance to same rate. I personally recycle every stock Mopar distributor I can....

According to Don @ FBO, he sells the Harland Sharp setups with 1.6I/1.5E combined. He states that SBM like more lift on the intake and keeps better cylinder pressure, being that camshafts like what you have are designed around a SBC cylinder head....

Well as a guess, it seems as if your powerband of your cam would reach to 6500-almost 7000k rpm. What rpm is it supposed to start? 3500k? Depending on rear gears, it seems that a shift point might be in the 6200-6500 range to keep you in the powerband for the next gear. As suggested, I...

We need cam specs and what heads you got.....

When I ran my shop and had motors built for customers, my 2 engine builder used nothing but Comp Cams. NOT ONE ISSUE. I broke all cams in with either Brad Penn/Comp break in lube Or just straight Comp break in oil. Then once the car was shut down after break in, we would change oil and...

Great score! Dont have the mag anymore but I remember it being a great article.

Actually he was about right for a stock or above stock cam. Even a 262 xe has a powerband range I believe starting around 1700 rpm. You want the converter to come in above the powerband of the cam. That way it allows the motor to spin up faster to the powerband.

When you add electric fans to a mopar, you need to up the alt output. In doing that, you also need to do an ammeter bypass. Look into cfm. Its important.

Few questions... 1. Are the fan(s) pulling?( i.e. wired to pull not push). 2. What is the cfm total? This number is very important. 3. Also did you upgrade your alternator? 4. Did you add a hi flow t stat when you had the eddy water pump? Its hard to see in the pics but is your upper...

Need some more info.... 1. Did you rejet it? It appears to come square jetted w/84's. Have you read the plugs yet? You may be restricting it a bit on the top end. 2. What size fuel line? 3. What GPH fuel pump? 4. At what RPM is all the timing in by? Your initial timing for that cam is...

Spend the money AND time ONCE by installjng braided steel. It will never break or leak. Also, dont buy "autogage"... Its Autometer's budget line and they suck. I have installed many styles of gauges over the years in customers cars and not once has a braided line failed in the slightest. Right...

Use factory non a/c brackets and they will work. The chrome aftermarket ones that I tried arent bent correctly. I just switched out my roundback for a squareback and it went in just fine.

They also run twice as expensive.... being that this will be a street brawler, I think I will be fine with what I have. I still need to buy a converter too. It was an early xmas gift from my wife...

Adjusting valves is nothin.... just not sure of any great benefits of the roller.

Its funny....a few friends have asked me " why didnt you get a solid roller?" "Their way better".... How much better will it be?I always thought that a roller cam took a bit of HP due to the higher spring seat pressures.....

Thanks Tracy! I post every now and then..... had to take a break for a while. Good to see that you CB, Rumblefish and a few others are still here... Either way, with that much more lift/duration than I have now, & a fresh custom TC, things should be quite a bit faster!! Might even come up on a...

CB, I already have the bushings from 4 SF... Lenny is at Dynamic right? I have a hard time remembering which rep I talk to at which place.... Need to catch up... I just built my wife a 383 stroker for her 63 Nova SS and it is god damn fast!

CB... Thinking of having PTC or Dynamic build my converter. They have done me right in the past. Flash hard? Whats your definition of raspy idle? I will also change out my MSD dist bushing to limit centrifigal advance to either 10 or 14 degrees...

I just got a new cam setup for my 360. I got the comp cam 231-4... 282/290 adv. duration, 244/252 @ .050 Lift is .520/.540 yet I have 1.6 rockers on intake 1.5 rockers on exhaust.... so that makes lift .553/.540. I am also getting my converter built to match this. It will be a 9.5" with a...

You don't need a bigger pan. Without increasing the pickup tube size, it won't empty the pan. They proved it in one of the mags a few years ago. The extra volume just increases pressure since it can't deliver MORE volume thru the same size tube. But, what you have for your setup...

When I am cruisin, and it's hot out, I have about 65 psi HOT at any rpm above 1800. At idle in gear HOT I have about 40 psi. THat is with a HV pump. Sounds like you have a stock pump?? Get out the stethoscope and find the noise.

Now that looks good! Glad to hear you also fixed the oil pressure problem, probably just a bad filter. Just an FYI, 51515, 51068, 51085 all fit Mopars and are all 3 different lengths.

But the flat part of the pickup still needs to be 1/4" off the bottom of the pan.

Carquest filters are just fine, since Wix makes them. The BEST on the market. Even better than a Mopar one, just cut each open and look. Get a mech gauge on there right away to see just how long til pressure hits the gauge area. What oil are you running? Any additives?