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http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ValiantDusterA.JPG http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ValiantDusterB.JPG

Looks like he deleted the stock NSS and is most likely running the park/neutral ground from the shifter.

Like everyone is recommending here, you're going to need to grab the factory wiring diagram to start diagnosing any issues right now. MyMopar.com is a great resource for this. The thing about this is now you're gonna go down the rabbit hole and 30-40+ years of molested wiring will do nothing...

1974 but the motor is a 1972 340. Either way, I was working on the ammeter bypass today and the wiring harness has melted wire jackets (on the POWER runs!!) and was hacked to **** by the previous owner.. I'm surprised this hasn't burnt to the ground yet. Ordering a Ron Francis kit...

Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm literally pulling my hair out here as I can't find fusible link anywhere. The stealership wants an arm and a leg for fusible link (1+ weeks to have it shipped in), and Mogre is saying primary wire can be used as a fusible link (remember we're in...

Yep 2-3volts. Damn you're good I now know who to talk to when battling gremlins on this Mopar. Cheers.

Great tip this helped verify it was the alternator.

Good news guys, it was the alternator. Had some time this morning before we left camping so I picked up a new one and installed it, fired her up and no more problems. Looks like it's charging better too. Thanks for the help, hope this thread helps someone else in the future. Andy

Yea that's what I got from those pictures, thanks for clarifying though. Anyways I disconnected the tach and took her for a spin and the issue is still there. I then came back and split the entire harness along the back of the firewall apart and isolated the 2 distributor wires to the ECU...

Forgive me for my lack of technical includes as Mopars are all new to me (so is V8/carb/distributor type ignitions). Single point or dual point dist - how can I tell? A quick google has yielded nothing to help me along here. Yes the alternator is an isolated field type with a 70/later...

I'd like to hear more about this. I can see there's a yellow wire/black stripe that's soldered to a yellow wire, yellow wire runs to a plug on the firewall which obviously goes into the cabin.

Ran your tests and everything checked out.

Stock ignition system, no pickup wire between an ignition box because I don't have one, regulator is mounted on the passenger side fender, ignition resistor is located on the driver side firewall.

There's a nice fat ground between the block, the battery and the body. It's definitely something to do with the voltage regulator - it runs way better with it disconnected. I noticed there's an ammeter on the dash with a +40/-40 gauge sweep. Can this cause any problems?

So this is the issue I'm having and can't find a thread to help get me started on a diagnosis or to actually cure the problem. I've come to a few of my own conclusions but maybe someone can chime in. Car: 74' duster with a 340 out of a '72 Problem: spark breakup attributed to the voltage...

I imported this car into Canada from Ohio and I cannot pass inspection with the tiny stress cracks in the original lenses. Pretty big piss off considering the originals really are in great condition. Cost was about $250 with shipping if I remember correctly from http://www.rpmparts.ca/ No I...

I managed to get the gasket on there without caulking and just reached around the housing and pushed the gasket in as needed when the bezel was somewhat tight. Fit seems good now, just had to crank down on the nuts to ensure a tight seal.

I had to pickup a new set of lenses and I'm trying to install them - thing is the originals used a gasket that is smaller and has some black caulking oozing out between the lens and the gasket. When I did a test fit there is clearly a gap that I probably need to add caulking too. I'm wondering...