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Exactly what I beleive I did. Done... I'll fire it up next weekend and let it idle until the fan turns on. Projects left -Power Steering Leak (looks like at the hoses connected to the pump) -Real dual exhaust (instead of my mock up) -Master Brake Cylinder Leak (installed remanufactured one)...

Yeah its annoying to get the shaft like that, but a 318 and a 360 share the same block don't they, if so a new crank and rods and I got a 360!? All the same it seems to run fine. Starts up and idles well. I haven't done anything more than drive it around the block once.

I found what I think is the voltage regulator. It has three hookups, the lower one has constant power, and the other two... I have no idea, the voltmeter didn't show any power, so I figure one is ignition? I didn't start up the engine, maybe I should have. Anyhow I hooked the positive wire for...

actually I think I found my starter relay... breaking out the voltameter....

Hey does this look right? Grounded to the body, positive to hayden 3653 controller, to 30amp relay to battery... done. Pros: No messing around with the ignition, and I'm free to hook up my regular temperature sending unit to my dash. Cons: ignition switch is bypassed... fans could run with...

That sounds like what I want, do you think thats available at an O'reily or an Autozone? What's the jegs part number?

BTW at idle, should my radiator and hoses get too hot to touch after about 10minutes without the fan running at all?

I want my gauge to work and have the electric fan do its thing... and a switch will allow for that? Any idea which switch to buy?

Important Facts: 1. I'm clueless 2. I have a 1974 360 with 4spd, no AC. 3. The bare minimum of wires are hooked up to run the vehicle... nothing else. Many wires are probably completely missing and so is a lot of the standard equipment. 4. I feel I may have to buy something to make this work...

Why magnum parts on a LA motor?

<--- Agree's with Prine. You should be fine.

I would think that if you are doing a mild 340/360, and you are adding electric fans... you would be fine. Did you have a shroud? How were temps before?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/skyline_performance/m.html?item=140869093888&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cc73ca00&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 Ask them lots of questions if you can. They have a catch can, electric fan, radiator, and mounting kit. I only bought two of the four.

Wouldn't that make a vertical flow radiator even more suspect? Actually both radiator styles work because the coolant is pumped in and out, and heat rising would be non-existent. The advantage of the crossflow is the positioning of the radiator cap on the out-tank which allows longer high...

That's what I liked about it... it is a modern style crossflow. Skyline makes them themselves at least thats what the sales persons said, or they design them and have them made overseas. Either way I am pretty happy about the fit. They also make the radiator ford style. I didn't check but maybe...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=7281 Not sure how to post pics, but.... I found this from Skyline Performance on Ebay. 160 shipped to my door with an electric fan. I've got custom mounting brackets, but they also sell a mounting kit for $25. This particular one...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=7281 I just put this one in my 65 Dart, its a 2 row aluminum crossflow with a 25" overall width and I think a 22 or 18" core. I made my own mounts, but this with the electric fan and the mounting kit, is something like 180ish from...