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M&H produces harnesses that are EXACTLY like the factory harness - same connectors, same wire colors. You can use your factory wiring diagrams to diagnose issues. Be sure to call M&H before buying - they don't sell direct, but they are the most knowledgeable in finding the correct harness...

Update - the new replacement gauges are considerably different that the stock ones, and are, I believe, superior in function. The issue is that the IVR for the new replacement gauges is different than the IVR made for the stock gauges and the two cannot be mixed. You have to be clear which...

I don't know what exhaust system you have, but anything that is even vaguely shaped like a drivers side 68-70 340 manifold those would not work with - wires need to stay higher then drop right down to the plugs. I have seen various header routings that stay above the head ports that would have...

it's a 53 year old circuit board with thin copper foil...

new boards are available...

you have to be careful with the new IVR units and the new gauges. There are transistorized IVRs that are made to work with stock gauges, and identical looking IVRs that are made to use with the new replacement gauges. The two cannot be mixed. Call the company that makes the IVRs to discuss.

Where else but the Repair Connector Store (no joke) www.repairconnector.com lookup Mopar bulb sockets

It seems that the worst are on new vehicles...

Yeah, lets install ridiculously bright headlamps so we can blind everyone coming towards us (even on low beam) and get our cars wrecked when the oncoming traffic can't see anything... This trend has gotten way out of hand.

Wagner Halogens

No, they weren't the same from year to year even back in the day.

So a lot of folks have a gauge cluster under the dash, so I have been installing a high quality, modern ammeter (along with a volt meter) under the dash for some time. You can use he original ring connectors and then just leave the factory ammeter in the dash for looks. Between the ammeter and...

Part of what I liked about 66 is that a lot of the restoration and preservation work, even the Rt 66 museums, tend to be local efforts by primarily volunteer organizations. It keeps the vintage feel of a lot of these places alive...

#halifaxhops Along Rt 66 in Odell Illinois is a Standard Oil gas station and garage. It is owned by the Rt 66 Association of Illinois, and they have been restoring the place as funds are available. In one of the garage bays, I found this Sun Distributor Machine and thought folks, particularly...

My 1970 Swinger came with a rear window defogger from the factory. Pulls air through one of the rear deck speaker grilles and blows it out through a long slot vent in the center of the rear deck. No heat involved, but it does a great job of circulating the warming air in the cabin to blow on...

.Depends on the rest of the ignition system. Some systems require spiral core wires like MSD.

Watch kickdown linkage interference on the drivers side!

Straight boots don't have to be a mess... I think the key is the 2 wire loom for the front wires in about the location of the original factory valve cover looms and then a 4 wire loom at the back to set that up:

Is the bare wire laying on the kickdown rod as it appears?

it sounds ridiculously expensive...

come on, confess that you are a product developer for J C Whitney...

Unless it's wired to a source that is always hot. You could disconnect the battery and see if the needle stays in the middle or drops toward D, right? I think that I would disconnect the power wires related to the fan set up and then see how the ammeter reacts. I think that would tell you if...

That does not sound like an ammeter. Right after start up with an ammeter the needle should head toward C as the system recharges the battery. Either the gauge has been converted to a voltmeter, or the alternator is not charging to recuperate the system after the drain to spin the motor.

OP - Does the wiring for the regulator (wires to triangular plug) appear to be a part of the M&H harness (wires coming out of the wrapped harness)? If so, again, I would bet that the upgrade to the later voltage regulator was done by having M&H build it that way, which is an option that they...

not in his wildest dreams did it pick up 40hp by going to electric fans, especially with a clutch fan that freewheels a good deal of the time when driving. I would think less than 10hp...

Small block? given the location of the wire next to the alternator wires what could it be except the temp sending unit???

back to post 6 - not the defrost, but the rear air circulation fan in the package tray that blows internal air on the back window. The bezel below the switch should say "REAR AIR". Do you have a blower fan under your package tray (look in trunk)?

Funny how so many of the A-bodies on this site, including all 3 of my 70 Darts have made it successfully through over 50 years of use using the factory designed system AS LONG AS THE COMPONENTS ARE KEPT UP IN EXCELLENT CONDITION AND ARE NOT OVERLOADED WITH ADD ONS without bypassing the ammeter...

Pictures in post #12 show a relay for the fan so that load is not going through the stock wiring to run the fan. Post#31 shows a new reproduction M&H wiring harness at the bulkhead connector. (OP - M&H sells mostly reproduction stock harnesses but do offer an upgrade to the later transistorized...

wires are sized by load. Stock wires were sized by Chrysler to handle the load that they were built with. There are ways to isolate additional loads from things like electric fans, but they can't just be patched in to the original circuits without bad results. Is there an amp gauge in the...