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So the crank was pulled and all bearing surfaces were inspected and found to be good? Just wondering. I feel your pain man! Hope it's just the pump and nothing got hurt.

Maybe I missed it, but what was done about all the metal from the wiped Crane cam? That stuff will get everywhere quick.

Any chance one of the oil galley plugs was removed?

These are the parts I've collected so far for a 408:78 E-58 ( big deal, right? ) 360 block .030 over, Eddie RPM's ( new in box off ebay from a guy for $1100), Eagle cast 4 ", Scat H-beams w/ 190k ARP's, Probe forged ( 10.3 w/Eddie's), Total Seal gapless rings, ARP Main stud kit, Pro-something...

I had a Century ski boat with a 340 about 25 years ago. I think it was a 74? It was a counter rotation V-drive. Ran very strong! Generally speaking Marine stuff is extra stout.

I'd pull the plugs and take a look. What intake are you running? Percys has a neat dial-a-jet deal that lets you basically do away with the pick-a-jet game and just fatten/lean your carb reall easy. Supposed to work awesome. Me likey! Good Luck http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-15001/

LA blocks oil through the head, not up the lifter/pushrod to the rocker arm like a Magnum block. Take a look at Comp Cams #7821-16 pushrods. These should work with the 273 rockers and the hydraulic cam. Good Luck http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/250-251.pdf

You want your NOS to shut off before your limiter starts cutting fire to the cylinders. You don't want unburn't NOS hangin around your motor!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-15651NOS/

If the light stays off after driving it a while you probably found the problem. If it comes back on heres some thing that commonly can cause it basically in order of most likely first. A scan tool ( I don't know how you got the code without one) is best to turn off the light. Your ECM may have a...

If you can walk and chew gum at the same time you can get used to holding the button on the steering wheel down when you want your nitrous solenoids activated ( pumping NOS and Gas). Let off the button when shifting and then get back on it with your thumb. I got faith in you!

You might want to look into the EQ heads (Clearwater Cylinder Heads in Fla.). Great bang for the buck. Don't need 1.7 rocker arms. Get a good timing chain/gears, match your cam and valve springs, good oiling system, performance curved distributor, good harmonic balancer. Have Fun!

Good info http://www.auto-facts.org/resetcheckenginelight.html

I think a "momentary switch" mounted on the steering wheel is what you need. Here's the Tech Line phone # for Holley/ NOS . They can tell ya what ya need to know.. Good Luck Holley Performance Products provides award-winning technical support via phone Monday through Friday from 8AM to 5PM...

Do you have access to a machine shop on the cheap?

I was looking through the glovebox on my 67 fish with a 273, performer, 600 eddie, and found a really neat goody! There was a cam card and a receipt for a custom ground cam from a guy named Roy Chambers. He owned RC Automotive Machine Shop here in Alexandria, Va. just 10 minutes south of DC. For...

Great job d/stockdart! That's what Hot Roddin' is all about!!! That's why people still run Nail-Head Buicks, FlatHeads, and Poly 318's. It's Kool Stuff! Otherwise we'd all just build 350 Chevy's and be done with it if power-per-dollar was all that counted. But it's NOT, and Thanks God For...

Glad to see you're narrowing it down. Might as well be ready with some new fuel line to replace the section back there at the tank and a new sock. Both are cheap and unless they're already like-new should just be replaced while you're right there. Good Luck

If you use the can of gas method and it pumps fuel, you know the pump and eccentric are good, and the problem is in the tank. If it doesn't pump fuel, you know the problem is with the pump or the eccentric. Pumps are notoriously crappy, and new replacement pumps are no exception. I've put new...

""I've cranked it and cranked it, using gas, starter fluid, etc. It starts until whatever I use burns off, but still not getting fuel flow to the carb."" Apparently he already determined nothing coming out of the pump.

You could run a rubber fuel line from a 5 gal. can to the input/uptake side of the pump and see if its pumping. If it is , most likely the pickup in the tank is clogged. Drop the tank and see what's up in there. Good Luck

Well, now the 'ol gears are in motion once again. I just found a 360 Magnum motor on CL for $125. Hard to beat a hydraulic roller cam. Waiting for the guy to call me back. I just bought a 70 Duster 340 with a rod-knock 360 in it. And so it begins....

You might be able to if you could find a compatible setup from an older Mopar or maybe check out JC Whitney or someone else for a universal cruise control setup.

Forget the ECU and harness. Run a good carburetor/intake/cam combo and save yourself tons of agg and $$ !! There's tons of those 318 magnums out there. You should be able to pick one up for $300-$500.

I was just looking at how expensive it is to retro-fit a hydraulic roller cam this morning in the "Library" before work.... Maybe you can find some EQ heads for free from one of your other buddys, then there's the Air-Gap for Magnums, ...... dang, that's how it all gets started! Next thing is...

Have you checked your fuel pressure? Make sure you have a clean filter and a good pump.

Intake comparo for 383/400 "B" . http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0712_mopar_intake_manifold_comparo/index.html

I've got a steel 440 crank with the mains turned if you need one......

Streetmaster is a good intake. 400 motors were pretty low compression, but basically a bored 383. If the stock pistons are in there, you can bump the compression by putting on some #915 heads off a '67 only 440" motor. They had big valves and small, closed combustion chambers. Then make sure...

Definately re-check.