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not sure, just ordered a Power Stop kit for my daily truck. my 66 Valiant will stop as good as my WRX did. just a 73-up disc master, Wilwood adjustable prop valve, 11.75 front rotors with regular pads and 11" rear drums. I am running more modern 17" tires. hell I know it out brakes the old...

have those ( summit knock off & wilwood ) on a couple cars. they work pretty well. it allows you to dial out some rear brake. I have no complaints

lowers are all the same ( unless they have sway bar tabs ). just leave the ball joint bolted to the spindle when you transfer them.

you will need the upper control arms and lower ball joints along with the spindles. the prop valve for disc or adjustable would be a good idea as well. valiant, dart, duster, demon all use the same rear axles. rear axle would be an easy swap, just a set of u bolts & shocks holding it in.

are you serious? that is some of the stupidest logic I have ever heard. that is one of the first upgrades that should be done to these old cars. one line goes out and No brakes.... dual master one line goes out and you will still have some brakes.

4 piston would be early discs, single piston would be later 73-up disc ( easily upgraded with larger rotors and a caliper bracket change )

the studs are part of the hub on the drum brakes. the drum is its own item. I believe the drum is "swedged" on? could be the wrong term but i'm sure a someone will chime in with the correct term.

also make sure they are Clean, Clean, Clean. any machining oil, greasy finger prints ect. can cause they to be sticky.

I like the 73-up spindles with the 11" rotors for a street strip car. you can get the caliper brackets from dr diff to run the 11" discs on an a body spindle cheap.

spindle is 73-up abody ( some use the FMJ? spindles as well ) rotors are later B body? cordoba? ( bearings are the same as the 10.5 rotors off the A body ) caliper brackets are the same as the rotors ( or get a new set from DrDiff ) calipers are 73-up A body or F body

I have mine on the rear of my 66 Valiant w/Cordoba rotors with zero issues. on another note do I see a washer under the lower control arm on the lower ball joint? could that be causing the issue? also the caliper can be mounted front or rear as long as the correct hoses are used. I...

you also need to know how the axles are set up. some are set up to use the redrilled small bolt pattern drums. some are to use B or other larger drum brakes. this is due to the offset of the flange and the center hub as whitepunk has pointed out already.

I bought all the stainless lines for my valiant, dads t bird and my duster. Only way to go in my opinion. Never will rust, no different to tweak n adjust than the steel lines. Plus I plan on driving the wheels off my car rain or shine. The steel ones would have probably been fine for longer...

it almost looks like one is for a 1.75" wide shoe and the other is for a 2" but that is just a guesstimate since I don't know how wide the drum actually is.

I have done it both ways. re-drilled the stock drums for the larger pattern & used the larger B or C body brake assemblies. it really depends on what you have, how much you want to spend or have access to.

I also think the brake light coming on as a reminder of the line lock being activated wasn't a bad thing.

mine was between the master and proportioning valve on the front brake line. I would pump up the brakes set the line lock and mash the loud pedal. never had an issue. I did it this way because the cars "was" going to be a manual trans. this left me free to operate the clutch. I have also...

first that switch on the wildwood prop valve is a brake light switch ( not a warning light switch ) verify the lines are plumbed correctly threw that prop valve. you should be able to just about eliminate all rear braking when its turned in. I have a similar set up on my valiant 11.75 fronts...

66 tie rods will work, only need the 73-up upper arms, spindles & lower ball joints to do the conversion.

I will hopefully know in summer how they work out. I have set waiting to go on my duster.

that's what I have on my valiant as well. its cheaper than the summit one pictured earlier. on a side note I have used both versions pictured and they work very well. allowing for adjustment of how much rear brake applied.

you can get them for rock for under 50 ea. at least you could a couple months back. sure they don't have that Huge bell or Darth vader look the originals did but they are new.

you would need aftermarket axles for the B body brakes on an A body housing. you will also need the backing plates from the B body as well. we have big bolt pattern on all 3 of our a bodies. one like I said above, one using after market axles with the offset for the stock drum brakes ( with the...

yep, if it isn't in the drums its either in the booster or under the carpet.

I used the same bearing the 10" rotors used on my 73+ spindles

i have a set from Summit Racing on my valiant. they look nice, no miles on them yet. so i cant say much else

or you can order the axles to use your current brakes and just redrill or slot the holes thats what we did for the kids car since he had all new brakes on the back.

yeah what he said?

i see that someone is remaking the A body spindles any chance someone is making the 11.75" caliper brakets? i know andyf makes some to put the Wilwood calipers but was looking for the stock style brackets

they sell some nice dist. block / switch assemblies ...summit and speedway both have them. work nice allowing adustment , plus split the fluid to both front wheels. have used them on a couple disc swaps i have done. brake light switch is nice for the older cars too