ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
yea, me be just wondering about my older bullet - put the heads on yesterday and THEN had a "blood runs cold" moment - uuhhhh.. $h!t - do they or don't they? nah.. it's fine - I think.. LOL
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
-
I went and removed an original bolt from my 67 273 commando engine for you...
Here it is compared to a store bought 3/8" x 18 x 1 1/2" bolt:
View attachment Intake bolt A02 B.jpg
View attachment Intake bolt A01 B.jpg
View attachment Intake bolt A05 B.jpg
View attachment Intake bolt A11 B.jpg
View attachment Intake bolt A08 B.jpg
Those engineers were very smart making all head bolts dry. SBC all wet and they have lots of problems because of it. Bolts rust out and wont come out.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
stock heads exhaust ports yea - but my aluminum ones - nope. (which is so nice when you gotta get the headers off!)
I like having studs in the end holes (that's what she said...
), it makes it easier to put the exhaust manifolds/headers on. Just hang them from the studs and put the rest of the bolts in.... :sunny:Sure beats having to hold and support it while trying to line up the holes and start the bolts.... :violent1: :violent1: :violent1:
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
I hear ya - they are a PITA, but I have found a trick or two that makes them at least a little less painful.. the worst part is getting the GD'ed gasket AND the header in place at the same time.. humm... studs at either end of an aluminum head.. why not right??
I like having studs in the end holes (that's what she said...
Sure beats having to hold and support it while trying to line up the holes and start the bolts.... :violent1: :violent1: :violent1:
If you get the one piece exhaust gasket, just hang it from the studs before you install the header, or get the header on the studs with a small gap between the head and manifold/header and slide the one piece gasket in there as the and bolts are "hooks" with an open end at the bottom and can be dropped on the stud where you couldn't if it were bolt holes...
Pull the exhaust manifold/header as far away from the head after you get the nuts on the studs threaded a couple of turns...
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
huh - considering the depth of the mounting surface of the intake - you would still think those would work - are they maybe bottoming out before truly tightening the intake...???
I've never seen a bolt like that on a factory built engine. It has a flange head with washer incorporated and a small shoulder...
All factory build sb's that I've taken apart have the rusty one like in my picture... Or if it's been apart before someone will substitute the store one like in my picture.
Either bolt will work, the important thing is thread size and length with the proper torque. I would use a grade 5 or 8 for an intake...
I,m thinking they might be, hence the thick grade 8 washers.
They are grade 5.
Stick it through the intake off the car and make sure that the shoulder doesn't stick past the intake with the head bottomed on the surface. If it does, I would use another bolt. You need threads there to be able to tighten it enough to compress the gasket. Too long of a shoulder will bottom out on the shoulder before getting enough clamp for the gasket to seal and damage the threads in the heads if you try to torque it... :violent1:
His bolt has a long shoulder on it, and without the washer, I suspect it would bottom out first...
I would try to use one like stock or the hardware store one like in my picture that has more threads and less shoulder..
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
can you measure the depth of the hole and see if your bolt it too long..............?
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
I also got on decaf for blood pressure. Still dring regular, just not too much. I think it has come a long way in the flavor department. I doubt you could tell the difference of most decaf vs regular med roast columbian or 'donut shop'. Not gonna hold up against a good dark roast though.
Waste of money...
In my opinion, the shoulder is too long, they need the washer under them to keep the shoulder from bottoming in the threads... The included washers are more for not bottoming out the threads than for more accurate torquing. Not to mention a flange head bolt is more expensive to make than one without a flange. Then you just add a washer to help distribute the load over a larger surface area for better distributing the load...
You are much better with a loose washer on the bolt than just using a flange head bolt (incorporated in the head of the bolt.) As you torque the bolt, the flange head tries to twist against the intake, causing slightly more friction than if you had a loose washer that would not turn in relationship to the intake, but the bolt turns against the washer.... You get more accurate torque and it leaves less marks/scars on the intake surface...
You can buy a good 3/8" x 18 x 1 1/2" grade 8 bolts from Menards, hardware store, home improvement store, or fastenal for less than $20 and the ARP ones are listed for $56...
Some of the ARP bolts are over-glorified and more expensive. I don't like there design for the intake bolts. They probably already had that bolt for another application and tried to market it for ours also, instead of making one like the original... So they didn't ahve to pay more $$$ to tool another bolt.... Typical corporate thinking.... :violent1:
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
I've got a tentative apt. at the engine dyno for Wed. If that doesnt pan out then it may be either and evening apt. or a for sure apt. Monday. Any guesses where it will be sitting at?
360
XE268
9.5 SCR
Air Gap
TTI's
750 carb
magnum heads 65cc
360
XE268
9.5 SCR
Air Gap
TTI's
750 carb
magnum heads 65cc
Ben Drinkin
Hey bartender!
See hoe I left that one alone...
Just stick it through the intake and see if the shoulder sticks past the sealing surface. If it does, I wouldn't use it. Get one that has threads all the way to the mounting surface.
Well, of course I did before i used them, But it was close, so im going to use the washers, This engine just does not idle like I think it should. It runs good, but I think it could smooth out more, it pulls 17 inches of vacuum at idle but every so often it moves down real fast and back up. I have seen ALL the trouble shooting guides online, so i know what it MIGHT be...Might be im obsessing over nothing.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
yea, I have tried decaf and you are right - they taste the same - for me though, it's about why I drink coffee -
Stick your rod in the hole and measure the length of the wet spot, like a dipstick.... :glasses7:
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
I am duly shocked and impressed..
-
Similar threads
