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no oil to rh rockers

Small Block Tech


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Old 04-16-2012, 08:22 PM   #26
Coronet 500
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I install my own with this great tool http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...88937/cst1-f-g
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-mailman View Post
Sorry to say this and not trying to beat you up,..but this should have been checked before assembly. Did you assemble or the shop ? I see no other option ..the engine has to come out if bearings have been installed incorrectly. You CAN pull the intake and the cam and eye ball it with the engine in the car, but much easier if engine is on a stand. If the bearings have to be replaced engine must come out. I have had to open up the cam bearing with a right angle porting tool (one I use on two strokes to reach into the tranfer ports)) because the idiot shop installed the cam bearings with just about 1/4 of the oil hole open (restrictive) . in the future...Good idea to visually verify bearing alignment. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

Terry
I assembled the engine myself. but if i have to fix the cam bearings must the crank also come out?
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:07 AM   #28
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were does the 2nd cambearing from the back get oil? is it from the 2nd from the back crank bearing?
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:46 PM   #29
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Each cam bearing is supplied from main bearing below. Yes you can leave the crank in, the back bearing is the smallest and each gets a little bigger toward the front allowing the tool to pass through installing them back to front. You can leave the engine in the car but only do the front 4 not the rear as you will pound out the rear plug into the bellhousing and re-installing is impossible. Before changing bearings check the cam when out that #2 and #4 have the hole drilled through, I've heard it's rare but can happen not being drilled.
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:45 PM   #30
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If you are only using the starter to prime it just maybe its bleeding out before it gets to that side. get a pump primer or grind a hex to match your distributor gear on a piece of allthread and turn the pump about 2000 rpm. Its a lot different than trying to prime it off the starter.If that dont work then i,d worry.While you are in there check the galley plugs inside under the distributor. I,d guess one didnt get installed.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:53 PM   #31
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If a plug was missing it would pour out the back of the block, and with no pressure would not come up to either rocker shaft. I have primed engines with a speed handle and no drill which suprised me at the time.
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:40 PM   #32
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how would the oil get out of the block. the plug is inside.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:23 AM   #33
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That one plug by the distributor would pour oil back into the pan not allowing the pump to pressurize and push oil up to any of the shafts. The other galley plug would allow oil out the back of the block. The front of the galleys are covered by the cam retaining plate.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:20 AM   #34
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hey guys. thanks for all the tips. But I have found the problem. Took the engine yesterday. pulled out the camshaft, and found that the cambearing had spun quarter turn. So the oil holes were blocked. However, the camshaft is okay. So today the workshop will insert a new bearing and lock it will looctite so it will never turn around again.

I have had this problem for a long time. have posted threads about my high oil pressure and rattle at high revs. No wonder you get high oil pressure when the oil holes are blocked. no wonder that the valves float when the springs are hot as hell because they receive no lubrication. so i am very happy That i have finaly found the problem. Ran it for about ten minutes this time, so the new springs had oil on them from the assembly. So this weekend I'll show all chevy and ford guys .....

here is my engine specs: What do you think?

360 030 over.
Scat 4inch forged crankshaft.
Scat forged I beam rods.
KB icon dished pistons.

10,2 compresion.

Ported and milled J heads. 53cc
howards cams electropolished valve springs.
Milodon 1,6 and 2,02 valves.
1,6 rockers.
Howards cams hydraulic roller. 238 244 050 duration 565 565 lift.
Hughes roller lifters.

Performer rpm intake manifold, with the divider cut down to half inch.and a one inch spacer.
NOS sniper 150hp plate.
750 barry grant.

PRW water pump. electric fans. Holley hp150 electric fuel pump.

Mallory ditributor with taylor cables. MSD 6al-2 ignition box. MSD blaster 2 coil.

TTI headers with 3" exhaust.

Thanks Daniel
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:22 AM   #35
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Looks like a well thought out powerful engine. I'm curious how much did you mill to get to 53ccs. Good luck.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:56 AM   #36
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That is every bit of 500HP on the motor if not 550HP. Yeah, ferds and chebbys better beware. Glad you found the problem and solved it.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:32 AM   #37
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Glad to Hear Both Engines are fixed.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coronet 500 View Post
Looks like a well thought out powerful engine. I'm curious how much did you mill to get to 53ccs. Good luck.
2mm.
//Daniel
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airwoofer View Post
That is every bit of 500HP on the motor if not 550HP. Yeah, ferds and chebbys better beware. Glad you found the problem and solved it.
I will run the car on a dyno on a meeting this summer. So i will let you know how many hp.

//Daniel
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