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76 Dodge dart wont start

Electrical and Ignition



 
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:15 PM   #1
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76 Dodge dart wont start

Ok, first off I have a 1976 Dodge Dart with a 318 that does not get driven very often and will sit for long periods of time. I moved my dart the other day, then a day later tried to fire it up and now it wont start. It acts like its not getting spark but I do see spark when I pull a plug wire. I checked my grounds especially at the ecu they all look good.

I do have a tester and I have tested the ecu, dist and coil all seem to be working according to the instruction sheet that came with the tester.

Should I try replacing the ballast resistor first and then go from there? What are the odds that my gas went bad from sitting for an extended period of time and fouled my plugs? I pulled one and it didnt look horrible, maybe I should replace them anyways. It is a car that does not get driven very often.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:18 PM   #2
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are you getting gas ? do you see an immediate pump shot down the carb?

bad gas will still burn just not very good
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 73AbodEE View Post
are you getting gas ? do you see an immediate pump shot down the carb?

bad gas will still burn just not very good

Yes I've had my father crank it and pump fuel while I watch it and it is definitely getting gas.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #4
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What kind of spark do you see, yellow, blue somewhere in between?

Have you looked inside you dist. cap for corrosion?
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:39 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Badsport View Post
What kind of spark do you see, yellow, blue somewhere in between?

Have you looked inside you dist. cap for corrosion?

The spark is blue with some white, I have checked the rotor and under the cap I didnt see any corrosion. The contact points look fairly even and clean.

Last edited by show; 08-10-2012 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:55 PM   #6
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You have gas and good spark, most curious. For grins have you tried dribbling a little gas directly into the carb.

If the plugs aren't fouled it should at least fire.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:57 PM   #7
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Bad ecu
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badsport View Post
You have gas and good spark, most curious. For grins have you tried dribbling a little gas directly into the carb.

If the plugs aren't fouled it should at least fire.
Yes I've tried that also, It acted like it wanted to start once. Then after that it has not tried to start as a matter of fact it acts like its not getting spark(just turns over), which it is getting spark.....

Last edited by show; 08-10-2012 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added information
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #9
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Bad ecu
he says its "contact points" but i think this is incorrect . reground the ECU
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:10 PM   #10
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If your sure you have spark, and fuel it has to start unless it jumped time. Try holding wide open while cranking for about 5 seconds.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:13 PM   #11
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If your sure you have spark, and fuel it has to start unless it jumped time. Try holding wide open while cranking for about 5 seconds.
Tried that I've just flooded it.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
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he says its "contact points" but i think this is incorrect . reground the ECU
I think he is referring to the contacts in the cap.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I think he is referring to the contacts in the cap.
Yes I am, thank you for that clarification. Sorry If my explanation was fuzzy.

Last edited by show; 08-10-2012 at 04:55 PM. Reason: cant spell
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:50 PM   #14
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Does is seem like its turning over faster than usual? The worst case scenario is the timing chain could have jumped.
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badsport View Post
I think he is referring to the contacts in the cap.
Quote:
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Yes I am, thank you for that clarification. Sorry If my explanation was fuzzy.

ahh kay, i was just making sure, sometimes you never know lol
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:52 PM   #16
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Do a compression test. If it turns over easy, you may have some valves stuck open, from being parked.
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:10 PM   #17
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Problem solved, updated to HEI ignition. It runs great now and fires right up.... I had a early gm module lying around got brave and spliced it in, will add pictures later.

Last edited by show; 08-11-2012 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:45 AM   #18
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Great. Sounds like you used the 4-pin HEI module. I put the 8-pin HEI in my Valiant with the GM coil. For the future, get an in-line spark tester ~$5 at HF. If spark and no fire, I spray starter fluid in the intake. On newer cars, the culprit is often the electric fuel pump in the tank.
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:03 AM   #19
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Great. Sounds like you used the 4-pin HEI module. I put the 8-pin HEI in my Valiant with the GM coil. For the future, get an in-line spark tester ~$5 at HF. If spark and no fire, I spray starter fluid in the intake. On newer cars, the culprit is often the electric fuel pump in the tank.
I'm not exactly sure what was going on I had spark but no fire, I tried starter fluid and putting gas in the bowls no fire. However the minute I put the 4 pin HEI in there got rid of the Mopar Ignition box it fired right up.

I am 100% sure it wasn't the ballast resistor I used my ohm meter and it tested within range. On the ignition box the grounds looked good but I regrounded it anyways and none of the pins or connectors had corrosion on them. Anyone else had this problem with the ignition box?
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:52 AM   #20
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Yes, I read of many intermittent problems with the Mopar ignition module. Some people claim no problems ever, but most owners keep a spare in the glovebox. Of course, the problem is often not the module, but the wiring and connectors, especially the bulkhead connector.

As you found, intermittent problems are the hardest to resolve. You saw a spark with a plug off, but seemed like no spark later. That is why I recommend an in-line spark tester. My Newport died suddenly last spring, with my wife and daughter in the car, so under pressure. It has a Crane XR700 ignition. Put an in-line tester ($3 Harbor Freight) and no flashes from the neon bulb. Swapped another Crane box I had in the trunk, good flashes and engine fired. I left the tester in-line and drove home.

You changed to an HEI module and it fired right away. Was it actually the module or just from wiggling the wires? If a bulkhead connector problem it will be back. Regardless, keep backup parts and diagnostic tools in the trunk and your life will be simpler.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:42 PM   #21
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I second this! I also own a 76 dodge dart. I replaced the alternator, starter relay and still my car won't start. i'm thinking maybe my battery juice is out but I keep on charging it and about an hour later it won't turn back on....what else should I look at?
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:47 PM   #22
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GM saves the day again
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:48 PM   #23
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olyoung, look and the battery cables
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:44 PM   #24
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I second this! I also own a 76 dodge dart. I replaced the alternator, starter relay and still my car won't start. i'm thinking maybe my battery juice is out but I keep on charging it and about an hour later it won't turn back on....what else should I look at?
Have you checked to see if you have fuel going to the carb? just found on my 76 that the rubber line from the tank to the hard line was bad and giving it issues starting.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:15 PM   #25
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Quote:
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I second this! I also own a 76 dodge dart. I replaced the alternator, starter relay and still my car won't start. i'm thinking maybe my battery juice is out but I keep on charging it and about an hour later it won't turn back on....what else should I look at?
olyoung,
You need to describe symptoms better. What does "it won't turn back on" mean? You haven't told us if the engine is turning over and not firing or not even turning over. If the later, do your hear a clunk from the stater solenoid? Does your dome light dim while trying to crank? You may need a multimeter ($6 or free).
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