how to test hazard switch

[4spdragtop]

Anyone have any ideas on how to test the hazard switch?? we replaced the flasher and still nothing, any ideas?? checked the service manual and nothing. Getting tired of pulling the dash in and out of dads 67 cuda.
Thanks
4spdragtop

[4spdragtop]

anyone??

[340plot]

yes, to test them, what you need to do is, get in th4e car, sit in drivers seat. with battery hooked up, pull the hazard button towards the passenger side (out). if you hear the tick tok noise, they are working. if you do not, a wiring or relay will be the culpret!

i pray this helps you in your quest for a conclusion

[cudajim]

To test the switch itself just get your ohmmeter out and check for continuity with the switch in one position then the next. I believe there are actually 2 ganged SPST (single pole single throw) switches in one package. Make sure both sides of the switch are working.

[BillGrissom]

It would help if you volunteered the year and model. I know later cars in the 70's had a hazard switch built into the turn signal switch in the steering column. My 65's have none. Don't know if there was an intermediate solution.

[4spdragtop]

Sorry Bill, i put the info in the 1st reply, its in dads 67 "S" cuda, switch is on the dash

[67Dart273]

These are fairly simple, steve. What you have there is a 3 pole toggle switch, meaning, you have "three switches" that act together, with one "in" terminal, and 3 "out".

1 The flasher gets power from the fuse panel, so you should be able to probe the flasher with a test lamp and it should ALWAYS be hot
(D31, no 18 pink)

2 a red wire should run off one terminal of the flasher to one corner of the hazard switch. With either a flasher plugged in, or a bypass wire in the flasher socket, that red should be hot
(D32, no 18 red)

3 One terminal of the switch should be TAN and runs to the right front turn signal (junction with the turn switch) and to the right turn indicator in the cluster
(D9, D9A, no 18 tan)

4 One terminal should be light green, goes to the left front turn, and the left indicator
(D10, D10A, no 18 light green)

5 The last corner of the switch should have a white wire and this runs to a junction that feeds INTO the turn sig. switch same place as the brake light switch. Remember, with the main signal switch centered, brake light switch power goes INTO the switch, and then back to the brake lights
(D4, D4A, no 18 white)

SO The switch terminal with the red from the flasher is the "in" and is not connected through the switch to anything else, with the flashers OFF. In other words, it's a dead end

With the switch ON, ALL FOUR terminals of the switch are hooked together

The flasher power comes to the switch, and feeds out the other three terminals,

the right front

the left front

and the brake light wire to the signal switch.

Your signal switch MUST be centered.

You must NOT have your foot on the brake

You must have power to the flasher, and of course a good flasher.

Testing the actual switch is easy.

Unhook the switch

With a ohmeter, and the switch off, NONE of the 4 terminals should be connected to any of the others

With the switch ON, ALL FOUR terminals should be connected together

[bbrroowwnn]

Originally Posted by 340plot

yes, to test them, what you need to do is, get in th4e car, sit in drivers seat. With battery hooked up, pull the hazard button towards the passenger side (out). If you hear the tick tok noise, they are working. If you do not, a wiring or relay will be the culpret!

I pray this helps you in your quest for a conclusion

lmao

[340plot]

well, at least someone found it funny !!!, like i did.lmao

[4spdragtop]

Originally Posted by 67Dart273

These are fairly simple, steve. What you have there is a 3 pole toggle switch, meaning, you have "three switches" that act together, with one "in" terminal, and 3 "out".

1 The flasher gets power from the fuse panel, so you should be able to probe the flasher with a test lamp and it should ALWAYS be hot
(D31, no 18 pink)

2 a red wire should run off one terminal of the flasher to one corner of the hazard switch. With either a flasher plugged in, or a bypass wire in the flasher socket, that red should be hot
(D32, no 18 red)

3 One terminal of the switch should be TAN and runs to the right front turn signal (junction with the turn switch) and to the right turn indicator in the cluster
(D9, D9A, no 18 tan)

4 One terminal should be light green, goes to the left front turn, and the left indicator
(D10, D10A, no 18 light green)

5 The last corner of the switch should have a white wire and this runs to a junction that feeds INTO the turn sig. switch same place as the brake light switch. Remember, with the main signal switch centered, brake light switch power goes INTO the switch, and then back to the brake lights
(D4, D4A, no 18 white)

SO The switch terminal with the red from the flasher is the "in" and is not connected through the switch to anything else, with the flashers OFF. In other words, it's a dead end

With the switch ON, ALL FOUR terminals of the switch are hooked together

The flasher power comes to the switch, and feeds out the other three terminals,

the right front

the left front

and the brake light wire to the signal switch.

Your signal switch MUST be centered.

You must NOT have your foot on the brake

You must have power to the flasher, and of course a good flasher.

Testing the actual switch is easy.

Unhook the switch

With a ohmeter, and the switch off, NONE of the 4 terminals should be connected to any of the others

With the switch ON, ALL FOUR terminals should be connected together

Thanks Del!

Hey Plot, sarcasm doesnt always=funny, but ya cant blame a guy for trying! ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!

[69crustydart]

Originally Posted by 340plot

yes, to test them, what you need to do is, get in th4e car, sit in drivers seat. with battery hooked up, pull the hazard button towards the passenger side (out). if you hear the tick tok noise, they are working. if you do not, a wiring or relay will be the culpret!

i pray this helps you in your quest for a conclusion

This is the method I use, never failed me yet......

[dwire67]

I use a Dewalt drill battery with test leads, it lost easier than using battery in the car alot lighter , you can use 18Volt also it will not hurt any thing. I would unplug the column harness and power it from there, to see what works. If it was working I would bet either a bad ground , bad brake light switch . Also the Flasher will not work with out a load look at the flasher and one side is power in and the other is load side.