<<<<<430 cube small block mopar build>>>>>
Small Block Tech
07-17-2011, 07:51 PM
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#26
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i thought they would be a pain in the ass - but after i take off the nuts - they just unscrew by hand
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08-13-2011, 07:24 PM
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#27
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Got some work done this weekend - the bearing clearances needed to be checked.
Got the rods cleaned up piece by piece in the parts washer and ready to be torqued to spec.
ARP lubed the threads and the shank of each bolt
ARP's stretch gauge confirmed the 75 ft/ lbs of torque was good for .004-.005 stretch on the bolts.
At 75 ft/lbs they were all reading between the .004 and .005 recommended
after they were torqued the ID was checked to spec - we had 7 of them 2 tenths large and one 3 tenths large - they were all very consistent and uniform rods.
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08-13-2011, 08:31 PM
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#28
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Location: ontario
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i cant weight to see the dyno number hope ever thing works out great for you.
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08-14-2011, 09:58 AM
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#29
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FABO Gold Member
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Dave, was it honed with a plate?
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08-14-2011, 06:08 PM
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#30
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Dave - I bolted a head on one side and plate on the other
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08-15-2011, 06:17 AM
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#31
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Ah. Cool. I didn't see the plate in the picture and I know when I measure mine they are out of round up top without anything bolted to the deck surfaces.
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08-15-2011, 07:00 AM
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#32
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i was surprised - the x block is alot stiffer then a stock block - ALOT! The deck is thicker and it really does distort less then a stocker.
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08-15-2011, 07:30 AM
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#33
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RIGHT... I forgot about that block...lol!
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08-16-2011, 11:21 AM
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#34
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Member
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Location: Jacksonville, Florida
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DJVCUDA Just wanted to thank you for this thread great info and pics...
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08-16-2011, 12:39 PM
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#35
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No Sweat!
Glad I can get some of this info out - It seems no shops post any in-depth information and the processes they do everyday.
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08-28-2011, 04:16 PM
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#36
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Location: Honolulu & Las Vegas
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Any new updates and pics......especially pics  Great job on this build thread 
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08-28-2011, 08:32 PM
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#37
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nah, the hurricane threw me off this weekend...
i should be back in action next week.
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08-28-2011, 09:45 PM
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#38
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Sorry forgot you were on that end of the US. Hope things aren't too bad for you. I sent Rod an email to check on the status of his assemblies.
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08-28-2011, 11:46 PM
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#39
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subscribed
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09-01-2011, 09:06 PM
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#40
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How much was the kit meaning pistons, rods, and crank?
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09-03-2011, 09:32 PM
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#41
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Set the end play - It;s right at .005 right where it needs to be - another testament to the BPE crank being dead on balls accurate!
Need to check the clearance of the counterweights?
Need to get in to a tight spot?
Need a flexable feeler gauge?
measure a zip tie ( this one was .060 and the crank spun with it between the counterweight and the webbing.
Rod clearance was right on at .016 - quality rods and quality cranks sure make assembly easy!!!
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09-04-2011, 12:32 AM
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#42
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dillingerchassis.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Utah
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That quality of work and attention to detail is rare. Great job and thanks for sharing.
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09-04-2011, 12:47 AM
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#43
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Looking awesome! Can't wait to get my kit when I get back to Vegas 
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11-16-2011, 10:00 PM
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#44
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Location: Gillette, WY
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Have you got any updates on this build for us? Anxiously waiting here......
Thanks!
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11-27-2011, 08:21 PM
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#45
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Just a quick update - Been working a ton, but have managed to get over to work on things a few times and have not updated.
Just about ready to balance after checking and re-checking everything - the shop was impressed with the BPE setup to say the least. They started recommending them to guys inquiring about SBM setups. The fit and finish was better then anything they have touched before in this price range.
Slid both cams in and checked with both heads, the PTV, Radial clearance, and pushrod length was all checked and we are all set.
Radial clearances was checked with clay, Rod's pistons have a ton even with the 2.055 intakes on the ported set of heads, considering the rock of the piston as well.
Pushrods are all at 7.600 - they are all 7.595" long at the last point we checked them so I will be ordering them soon.
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12-09-2011, 08:02 PM
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#46
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I went with the Manton's 11/32" pushrods. They are an 11/32 x .120 wall thickness.
They are about 50% stronger then a 5/16 (TOP) - and the 3/8 (BOTTOM) is 50% stronger then the 11/32 (MIDDLE)
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01-01-2012, 12:15 AM
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#47
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You stated that you started with a 79 X block. Is that a production 360 block? Aftermarket 340 block?
What will the compression ratio be?
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01-01-2012, 07:12 AM
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#48
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Amazing work! Subsribed
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01-01-2012, 11:35 AM
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#49
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damn thats a nice engine.....so whats something like this cost? i want one...
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02-22-2012, 11:43 AM
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#50
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Any more progress? Updates? I think I have read this forum more than 20 times. Keep up the good work!
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