Torsion bar install

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schmigel123

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Can any body tell me if it is possible to put a torsion bar in the wrong position?
I have it cranked up all and it still does not make a difference.
 
First, make sure you have the bar on the correct side. There is a left and a right bar. It doesn't matter what end goes into the LCA though. Yes, it's probably possible to get the bar indexed wrong. You should have the LCA bolts all the way loose. The LCA should be all the way down. Sometimes it's necessary to remove the UCA bump stop or disconnect the upper ball joint from the spindle. This will let the LCA drop all the way down.

If the bars are indexed correctly, make sure you don't have broken welds on the torsion bar x-member. The hex in the frame could be spinning.

Are you trying to install stock bars or aftermarket bars?
 
I bought this dodge dart with a 440 in it. I rebuilt the whole front end and just put the bars in .How do you index them. The right side is fine.
 
You needed to mark them before you took them out. You = done. I'd advise some bigger bars for that hog you have sitting in the engine bay. Just suspension is the most inexpensive bars I've come across for 1". Under my car, ride is firm, not harsh with a 360. Corners decently too. Discount code 'shopalizer'.
 
Just make sure the LCA is all the way down as far as it will go. The bar should basically slide right in.

The bars were on the car before you took it apart? No need to mark them. There is only a left and a right.(no front to back) If the LCA is all the way down, they should go right in.
 

Double check that you have the correct bar for that side. There is a left and a right.
 
Indexing is no big deal, it's a matter of common sense. I've always simply "pulled" the A arm down, and made sure the adjuster is "out" and the inner piece rotated all the way down. The bar often "almost" slides right in. Left (driver side) are ODD number, right (pass) are EVEN no. End for end, as other's have said, does not matter.
 
schmigel123 said:
I bought this dodge dart with a 440 in it. I rebuilt the whole front end and just put the bars in .How do you index them. The right side is fine.
Click to expand...

How did you install them?


I like to leave the lower control arm separated from the lower ball joint. Then put the bars in and line up the front hex, so the rear will line up and go in all the way.

Then I put a jack under the lower control arm and jack it up to connect the lower control arm to the ball joint. (With the adjusting screws backed all the way off). [-o<

On my 1.000" bars that we just put in my son's car, the bar started lifting the car almost before I was able to connect the control arm/ball joint.... :violent1:
 
schmigel123 said:
Do you feel that those bars will hold a 440 and have fenderwell clearance?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be posting if I didn't.

Look at the chart:

torsion_bars.jpg



These cars were very under-sprung from the factory, back when the 'floating living room' was in style.
 
If 1" bars are "pro-touring" then I guess so, not really the stiffest bars ever made. The ride with a 440 will be firm, but it will still move around quite a bit till you toss a sway bar or something up front.

People hang on to the lighter bars for drag racing; better weight transfer. But on the street and corners, big bars all the way. There are other vendors for bars PST, firmfeel.com comes to mind.


Read through this when you get a chance:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970204470

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=73295
 
1" bars are still undersize with a 440, especially it its still all iron (ie, doesn't have aluminum heads, etc)

I had 1" Just Suspension bars in my Duster which is a 340/4 speed, manual steering, no AC, manual brakes car with headers- or in other words, pretty light for a '74 A body. I thought they way too soft even in my fairly light small block car. Better than anything stock, absolutely, but nowhere near a performance handling torsion bar. They still left quite a bit of body roll, and the ride was practically plush. I have 1.12" Firm Feel bars in my car now, and I think it rides and handles great. I do run the Hotchkis non-adjustable Fox shocks, and I'd say Bilstein RCD's or Fox's are the only way to go once you start going much over 1" for a torsion bar.

I think a big block A body calls for at least 1.03" bars. And really, if you want it to handle well, I don't think you should go smaller than 1.06".
 
We never asked what your going to be doing with the car if its drag/street/handling.


Don't want to stir the pot too much, but it seems that much past 1" bars, you really need a good shock to control the spring rates here's one of many talks about the issue:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=107069&page=2


Big block may stifle the load, but it's something to think about.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
I wouldn't be posting if I didn't.

Look at the chart:

torsion_bars.jpg



These cars were very under-sprung from the factory, back when the 'floating living room' was in style.
Click to expand...


I bought a "good used set " Of bars from a guy here in Canada, just want to make sure i know what i have?

893-L
300

892-R
329

I measured the bars, and the left ie 35-7/8 long the right is 35-3/4 long is that 1/8" going to be an issue? This is going in my 71 duster with a lightened 383. aluminum heads intake waterpump mini starter etc.
 
Ok never mind i got out the caliper, i am good. I have resto 340 bars Will start with the 6 cyl bars in the car and go from there.
 
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