My 1966 DART part two.

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Mopar Tim

Mopar Tim

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I have been asked a few times for info on a few things I did on my Dart. I will post what PICS I have concerning a few things.

My door panels as well as the back panels, I built my self. I had the old ones as templates so I just cut the new panels from a 1/8th inch by 4ft by 8ft sheet of oak panel. Home Depot. I was careful to get all holes in the correct place. I used new panel clips, bought online. The stainless trim I polished with buffer on bench buffer. I Wanted a good sound system in my Dart so I determed the perfect place for the door speakers is where you see. Had to flatten the area first then I cut the hole using a sheet metal nibbler. When finished the hole is not ferfect round but it workes good. One corner is square. I lined the doors and rear area with sound deadning sheets. they are foot by foot square. The vinyl is the same as I used on rear seats as well as on front seats. The front seats are leather/vinyl. The Carpet is the same as I used on floor and consol. Got this from a place near here that specializes in old car carpet. Matches floor kit. I will post pics ASAP. More to come. MT:color:
 
I used a product that was made to pad lamanate floors as padding behind vinyl. Worked good. I wish I had taken PICS when I put these togather but I was just happy to get them finished. I had to Cut the bottom stainless trim to fit the 6 inch alpine speaker. Was tough. I glued down the padding first after cutting to size with 3M spray glue. Then glued down the yinyl on top of the padding with the same glue. Put in new clips and was ready to go. Be fore I installed the panels I installed the plastic sheeting between the door and panel. I used clear vinyl from upholsterey supply. I completly rebuilt all doors and rear window mechinism. I will post PICS ASAP.
 

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I just discovered my young son deleted ALL pics of my build in the starting stages. It WAS three years ago. I will supply what I have and answer any questions. Thanks MT
 
:color:Im going to buy a new camera to get some better pics soon. Im not going to take apart what I have done, Sorry! LOL. I can get better pics on the trunk lift and explain how i did the hood lift. More to come MT
 
Just checking back to see if you added any info here. Did you get your cylinder ends at the salvage yard as well and is that what you used on all ends?
Rod
 
Hi Tim. Could you post a pic of your door panels. Mine are shot and looking for an alternative to spending 500 or more to replace these.
Thanks
 
Tadams said:
Hi Tim. Could you post a pic of your door panels. Mine are shot and looking for an alternative to spending 500 or more to replace these.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I will today. Thanks for looking!:cheers:MT
 
rod7515 said:
Just checking back to see if you added any info here. Did you get your cylinder ends at the salvage yard as well and is that what you used on all ends?
Rod
Click to expand...

I have some more pics. I removed back seat to get better pictures.:cheers:MT
 
A few more pics. In a hurry I will tell more about them in a while.:cheers:MT That last one is fuzzy sorry. Thses rear lifts came off a 98 Ford explorer rear lift gate. The ball mounts are from the same. I removed the torsion springs from the dart, and I lifted trunk as high as it would go. Then I proped it open. I positioned the lift on the rightside by just placing it near where I thought it should be. I saw right away that I needed brakets on the bottom. Pics 2 and 4. I made these from some old runningboard brakets from a ford. I tapped the hole so the ballstud mounts. I had originaly had a nut on backside but decided it was not needed. Then drilled two holes thru bracket and thru fender putting nuts on inside. The fender flexes a little thats why the braket and two bolts holding it. On the other end, after marking it from third step, I drilled a hole a little smaller then a nut that fit the ballstud. Metric. Then I presses the nut into the Trunk hindge making a tight fit. Then I put a bolt into the nut and welded the nut in place. I removed the bolt and painted hindge to match. Repeat for other side. The lifts should snap right into place with trunk fully lifted with prop rod. Then I mounted two stops onto the hindge to adjust the trunk so it would not lift so far. Blue in pic 2. With the trunk closed, all of these pics are with it closed, you can see the lift does not compress fully. No problem. Works like a champ.
 

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I saw the pic where you used the lifts on the hood and I'd like to do the same thing on my wagon. Got any more pics? From what vehicle did the lifts cove off of? Approximately where does the bottom of the lift mount? Inquiring minds want to know! I suspect the fenders need to come off to install the lifts.
 
65 Dartman said:
I saw the pic where you used the lifts on the hood and I'd like to do the same thing on my wagon. Got any more pics? From what vehicle did the lifts cove off of? Approximately where does the bottom of the lift mount? Inquiring minds want to know! I suspect the fenders need to come off to install the lifts.
Click to expand...

These came off a Missubishi Montero sport. get the mounts on both ends. I used the top hole on hinges. there are two lower do not work. The ball mount fits perfect into the existing hole. put a nut on the back. I had fenders off and propped the hood ooen as far as it would, put top ball stud into said hole, noted where at bottom and marked for two holes. the bracket from the Montero has two bolts holding it. Drilled two holes thru the area where the kick panel are. works great. I will try to get some pics but the car is assembled. NOT going to remove fenders. And last I had to bend hood hinges to clear the fenders. MT
I:burnout:The mount is like a triangle I put the flat back with the two holes right against the pinchweld. Inside the two bolts were very close to floor. I put bolts with nuts on the outside.
 
Appreciate the info on the hood lifts. I definitely have to remove the fenders from the Dart wagon; should be a perfect time to fit them. Thanks again.
 
Yes have to remove fenders to install BUT they can be replaced without removing fenders, just inside shield. MT
 
Got my 8.75 rear end together today, 3.23 gears SBP suregrip. Going in soon
 

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I am most insterested in how you made the door panels and got the metal trim back on. Also where you found new clips. Did you also fabricate the arm rests? Hit me back, I need to build the same type of panels. Also kick panels too. Would also be interested if you made a package tray and how that turned out.
 
I got new door panel clips on E bay, I used 1/8 inch "luan" board. 4x8 sheets. Arm rests are good original. The pads are NOS. padded behind vinyl with padding used for laminate floors! Green. Got carpet for lower from a local shop that specilizes in old auto carpet. Matches perfect. and cheep! I made package tray, Came out nice BUT, when I put in rear window, I screwed up and did not get a good seal and it leaked, ruined it! I have a package tray I purchased at Fall fling for 29 bucks, from mopar Restorations I think. going in today. And most of the tabs were ok on metal trim to reinstall, the ones that were not I used a short screw. only thru the sheet metal part. you will see when you do it what I mean. I had to drill hole, then start screw, then take out screw and grind off to get short enough.
 

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