1969 DART CUSTOM FULL RESTORATION

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any reason you did not do the rear leaf spring re-location to the frame rails and any wheel well mods / tubbing before the replacement rails were re-welded back in the car.

nice work....most of us are in awe.
 
HemiDenny said:
any reason you did not do the rear leaf spring re-location to the frame rails and any wheel well mods / tubbing before the replacement rails were re-welded back in the car.

nice work....most of us are in awe.
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I'll try to answer the best I can... I wanted to have everything I could back in normal condition so I knew everything was square and true that way it'd be like doing the tubs and springs on a factory car. I've mentioned it before that I don't like getting too many thing torn apart whereas things get out of whack very easily. It's hard to tell in the pics but the wheel wells and the outer edge of the frame rails are not welded at this point because I knew I'd be cutting all of that back out.

Hope this makes sense and helps!
 
FJ5 Duster said:
I stopped by last night checking out Jason's work on his Dart. The pictures look great but it looks even better in person! He is really doing a phenomenal job on the car! The Dart is straighter and more true now than when it left the factory!
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Sorry forgot to thank you Jason! I've said it before... you saved my butt giving me your spare rear frame rails! Can't wait to see you move forward on your cars!
 
CrOoKs said:
I'll try to answer the best I can... I wanted to have everything I could back in normal condition so I knew everything was square and true that way it'd be like doing the tubs and springs on a factory car. I've mentioned it before that I don't like getting too many thing torn apart whereas things get out of whack very easily. It's hard to tell in the pics but the wheel wells and the outer edge of the frame rails are not welded at this point because I knew I'd be cutting all of that back out.

Hope this makes sense and helps!
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you bet.....I can understand that. I thought maybe there was something else to it I might have missed.

gonna be one nice car....can I have the scraps?
 
HemiDenny said:
you bet.....I can understand that. I thought maybe there was something else to it I might have missed.

gonna be one nice car....can I have the scraps?
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Thank you sir! I have done some trading with Jason here local with the parts I've taken off. Sorry :-(
 
Got the US car Tool subframe connectors installed. Some parts showed up such as 10x2.5" rear brakes, US Car Tool spring relocation kit, new AMD front spring perches and should have axles tomorrow.

Today I bolted the front fenders on and spent about 4 hours adjusting the fenders and doors so I can cut the passenger side quarter panel off and do the mintubs while I'm at it.

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I just read your thread from the start, you do great work and the planning is superb!
Glad to hear you are keeping the original color of F8, it's my favorite color on these cars!
Looking forward to the rest of the build, i would love to do a '69 Dart one day if i find a good candidate like you have.
I have one on the line that looks similar to yours, and would be following a very similar build as what you have going here, including colors and drive train..........
Keep up the good work and the pics, we all appreciate it!
 
Wow you are making some incredible progress on this build. Are you replacing the taillight pocket sections? Once we started tearing apart the rear sections of my car we ended up basically replacing every piece. One small piece of advice, if you are going to put a factory style fuel neck in the car get the trunk seal for 70 and later (I believe). The rubber trunk seal for the neck for 67-69 will not fit on that new trunk pan.
 
Dartnut said:
I just read your thread from the start, you do great work and the planning is superb!
Glad to hear you are keeping the original color of F8, it's my favorite color on these cars!
Looking forward to the rest of the build, i would love to do a '69 Dart one day if i find a good candidate like you have.
I have one on the line that looks similar to yours, and would be following a very similar build as what you have going here, including colors and drive train..........
Keep up the good work and the pics, we all appreciate it!
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Thank you very much! I want this to last another 40 years not 5! Good luck in your endeavors!
 
1969VADart said:
Wow you are making some incredible progress on this build. Are you replacing the taillight pocket sections? Once we started tearing apart the rear sections of my car we ended up basically replacing every piece. One small piece of advice, if you are going to put a factory style fuel neck in the car get the trunk seal for 70 and later (I believe). The rubber trunk seal for the neck for 67-69 will not fit on that new trunk pan.
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The tail light sections are fine which were about the only thing worth saving. I think I'm going to get the aeronotive fuel tank which I've read the filler hole sits back about 3/4" so my plan is to use the newer boot on the pan.

Thank you for your input!
 
Made a little progress this afternoon. I cut the old quarter panel wheel opening and used it to patch my inner wheel well. The outer wheel well in the passenger side is done and in epoxy. I plan to cut the inner out his weekend and finish the us car tool minitub extension on the passenger side.

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I just read your whole thread and am amazed by your progress in such a short time. I wish I had your motivation! I'm over in Lees Summit and there are quite a few KC guys here on the board, we ought to plan a meet up once we are all back on the road.

You asked a question a while back about running two SS springs. Obviously, that can be done but it won't result in the rear sitting low like you said you want. My buddy had them on his Demon and had to put in spacer blocks so it didn't have the stink bug look. This is an option but a lot of people don't like running big power with lowering blocks. I went with the ESPO +1 springs and this is how mine sits after the initial settling. I plan on adding Caltracs as soon as I get things sorted out under the hood.

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BrianT said:
I just read your whole thread and am amazed by your progress in such a short time. I wish I had your motivation! I'm over in Lees Summit and there are quite a few KC guys here on the board, we ought to plan a meet up once we are all back on the road.

You asked a question a while back about running two SS springs. Obviously, that can be done but it won't result in the rear sitting low like you said you want. My buddy had them on his Demon and had to put in spacer blocks so it didn't have the stink bug look. This is an option but a lot of people don't like running big power with lowering blocks. I went with the ESPO +1 springs and this is how mine sits after the initial settling. I plan on adding Caltracs as soon as I get things sorted out under the hood.

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First of all thank you! Yes, we will have to have a meet soon! Thank you for your pic and info! I told Jason yesterday I think the ESPO +1's would be what I need and worse case I can do rear sliders to drop another inch. In fact that's probably what I will do. BTW you've got a sweet ride!!
 
CrOoKs said:
BTW you've got a sweet ride!!
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Thanks but it's a true twenty footer. Paint and body work is fair but not show quality. I've got a 500 hp 408 in it now that is just waiting on me to get it all wired up. Should be pretty fun this summer I hope!
 
Got the passenger quarter fitting really nice. I used a flange tool across the existing top piece of the quarter panel so my new skin would overlap nicely. I'm kind of digging the black with green doors! Maybe a custom police car :)

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Got up early and got the passenger minitub welded together and screwed to the outer wheel well. Done for the day gonna take my son fishing.

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FYI I have 14.75" width from frame rail to quarter panel wheel opening lip and I have 12" width up at the top of the wheel well.
 
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