1970 Swinger Build Thread (PURISTS BEWARE)

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Mason Coughlin

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Clayton, NY
Hello all, my name is Mason and I picked up my Swinger this summer as a trade for my 1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer that I had. The Wagoneer was a fun truck, but it was a rusty mess since the day I got it. Tons of work, some Ford 1 ton axles, 37's and a Chevy 5.3 later and I had a pretty neat rig that was still a rust bucket. That's where the Swinger comes in.

When I got the car, I thought it was in a lot better shape than it really was, but you can only see so much in a parking lot. Car looked solid aside from a little rocker rust, some wavey quarters and a little rust I could see on the drivers trunk extension. It started life as a typical Grandma grocery getter (say that 10 times fast). 225 slant 6, 904 Torqueflite, 7.25 rear end, white with A.C., and power steering. When I got the car, the guy before him had built it in 2006-2007 with a 318/904, 8.25, painted it Sublime, threw an SSBC brake kit on the front, added some Autometer gauges and bucket seats.

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I really liked the car, so I made the trade having never been a Mopar fan. I grew up to a Dad with square body Chevys and Big Blocks, a 2005 Pontiac GTO, Venture minivans... etc. If it wasn't GM, I was interested. All through high school I wanted to build this 1966 GTO (true GOAT too, not a clone) that was tucked in the woods down the street from my house. Fast forward 8 years and the GTO is still in the same spot in the woods and I own a Mopar. Who woulda thunk? I really started to love the long straight lines of the Swinger though and realized I wanted to keep the car. I had promised myself that I wouldn't get into any crazy project with this one, but it looks like I lied to myself.

Late August 2017 while playing on wet roads after a light rain and a quick run through the gears, the engine had made a trip to 7,000 RPM and the valve springs were NOT happy about it. The 318 lived to see another day, but I could tell the car was down on power. A quick pull if the spark plugs and a bore scope reviled a broken ring land on cylinder #8 after the exhaust valve had kissed the piston. A friend of mine and I removed the cylinder head and found the damage that we saw through the bore scope was much worst, but not just from me. The engine was build with .060 ON hyperutectic pistons, Comp 268 cam, 360 cylinder heads, Doug's long tubes and an Edelbrock intake and Holley carb. The problem though became the engine build itself.

We noticed a ton of slop in the bores. After a check with a bore mic, the cylinders were found to be very slightly out of round and bored .070", not .060. This resulted in a ton of piston rock. When the engine was tore down I found 4 broken rings and the skirts on all the pistons were in very rough shape.

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This is when I realized that I was going to be putting an engine in the car because this block was already to it's max. My first thought was a Gen 3 Hemi. Makes sense right? I had LS swapped the Jeep, my brothers Datsun truck and my friends RX-7, but the Mopar thing was growing on me. I loved the thought of fuel injection, quieter, more powerful engines that lasted much longer, and something different than just throwing my existing carb and headers on a 360 Magnum and still not been happy. But then I saw how expensive it was to do the modern Hemi swap. Now don't get me wrong, I have absolutely no problem spending money where money needs to be spent, but $2,200 for a computer and harness? The LS stuff was just done with modding the factory harness and flashing the computer with HP Tuners and we were in business. I was pretty disappointed that the standalone ECU was so much money. The headers are also huge money too, and I really wanted overdrive. I wanted to keep the car automatic and Chrysler has never built a quality overdrive automatic that is readily available in way Upstate NY.



If you get offended by LS Swaps, you might want to stop reading now...
 
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Now the idea to LS it came to be. I found a wrecked 2004 Tahoe near me for $300 that had a beautiful running 5.3 so I snagged it. The 4wd 4L60E was going to go in my brothers Datsun and I wanted to rebuild his blown up one and convert it to 2wd. No big deal. Got the enfine, transmission, PCM, harness, throttle pedal and TAC module from the Tahoe thrn sent it to the scrap yard. Since a tired old 5.3 just wouldn't be enough, my plan was a twin turbo setup with two 55mm turbos for packaging reasons. Sometimes turbo cars get sloppy under the hood with change piping and such so I figured twins would only be a little bit more money but the finished product would look a lot nicer.

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After a talk with a few friends they made me realize that pouring moneynimto a 4L60e to get it to live behind a boosted 5.3 was a waste and that if I really wanted to prevent from hacking up the floor to fit a 4L80E, I would have to put a clutch pedal in the car. Tremec T-56 6 speeds are strong transmissions, but I had a really big problem spending $2500 on a used, 15 year old transmission that would probably need a rebuild. Afterall, my Dad's GTO ate it's synchronizers in 63,000 miles which is totally unacceptable.

Thanks when a friend of money who drag races Imports suggested the Nissan FS5R30A Transmission from 1990-1996 Nissan 300ZX's. Remember how I said "Purists beware???. I picked up a junk 300ZX for $500, took the transmission and driveshaft, then my buddy gave me $100 for what was left and he took it and parted it. Good riddance. For those who are not familiar with these, it has the same internal parts as the AWD transmissions in R32 and R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R's. I knew it would be plenty strong in a rear wheel drive car since these had an all wheel drive rating of 700hp.

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Anyone that's looked into LS swapping am A Body knows the biggest issue is the oil pan. GM never sold a vehicle with a mid sump oil pan like the Mopar. The closest available pan of from 2004-2006 GTO's and although it's not perfect, it's front sump design can be made to work and clear the K Frame and steering linkage.

Then I thought about possibly just replacing the entire front suspension. The HemiDenny and RMS kits that are based in Mustang II front end parts would give me spindles that are front steer and allow the usage of a steering rack which gains me oil pan clearance and should give MUCH greater feel than the sloppy manual box my car had in it. I've designed the 4 link suspensions that were on both my Jeep Cherokee as well as the Wagoneer and have always loved fab projects like that so I decided that the route I wanted to go was to build a new K frame, and use Mustang II suspension. This deletes the torsion bars giving me more room for headers and solved a bunch of issues.
 
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This is when I found a local guy on Craigslist selling the complete front suspension from a C5 Corvette for $500. Now that you guys must believe I'm bat-sh*t crazy, hear me out: The C5 stuff already had massive aluminum A arms. This means I wouldn't have to fabricate my own using heim joints and have the fear that maybe I went with too thin wall of tubing or something. Also, the Corvette stuff uses unit bearings which are maintenance free and are reasonably priced to replace, and third, the Vette uses 12.8" rotors with aluminum 2 piston calipers. I would end up with less unsprung weight than my original plan and bigger brakes that are modern enough to get replacement pads and rotors from a local auto parts store. When was the last time you actually saw a Mustang 2 driving around? That's my point...

The biggest downside to the Vette unit bearings would be the bolt pattern. The Corvette uses the standard Chevy pattern of 5x4.75 or 5x120.something. Obviously Chrysler never offered this as a pattern which leaves a predicament thst I've yet to solve. I need to change the rear axle shafts to go to the larger 5x4.5 pattern anyways so maybe I can have some made in 5x4.75? I'm not sure yet on that.

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Around the same time I found the Vette parts on Craigslist, I also stumbled on a 6.0L for $600 and since everybody knows bigger is better, I had to get it. In all seriousness, the main reason I wanted it was because the 6 liter had a 4" bore. Once you have a 4" bore you can run LS3/L92 cylinder heads. These things flow incredible amounts of air for a factory head and make great power. With the addition of the 6 liter, I decided to scrap the idea of a turbo car and instead am going to build a healthy N/A engine instead. After talk with a few camshaft manufactures I should have no problem reaching 550-575hp with this combo.


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I have began stripping the paint off the shell and keep finding more previous damage, terrible prior repairs, and more rust. I will update that after my fingers heal a little bit. This may be a 2 year project but I will update this with pictures and all prgross that is made. Thanks for reading the into, and please enjoy!

Mason
 
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:thumbsup:

It's YOUR car, YOU are having fun with it, and anyone who can't handle it, well that's THEIR problem. Good for you! You should be able to get some decent coin for the Doug's Headers you have to help offset some cost.

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LS Siq. Gawd is great.

Jake
 
LOOOVE The Jeep Wagoneer .

I used to be all about those until I sold them all to get into mopar station wagons.

Still have a soft spot for an FSJ
 
I think I just read a build thread from a parralel universe. I stumbled into a 71 swinger and quickly hit all the usual Mopar road blocks. Quickly ditched the G3 idea. I was going to do the 5.3 twin turbo, but now I'm going 6.2 NA out of a wrecked Escalade. I'm going 4l80e though. Doing a front clip also. Then I saw where you're from. I have been going to your town my whole life and almost bought a vacation house there this past summer (the sellers were citiots and aggravated me). Small world. Drinking the river water must make us think similarly.
 
That's what I was hoping people would understand with this build. Its simply just modern Hot Rodding.
While I'll admit I'm not a fan of the LS swap, it is your car though, build it as you wish.

I am however, very curious to see how the corvette suspension swap goes. I originally wanted to make c5 spindles work in my dart but wasn't able to come up with a plan I liked. There's a guy over on moparts who was able to make C5 spindles and A arms work on his 73 cuda, but it required a custom front half to do as the Vettes track width was too wide for the cuda . The darts track width is even narrower yet. Not saying it won't work but I'm very interested in seeing the outcome. Good Luck
 
This is when I found a local guy on Craigslist selling the complete front suspension from a C5 Corvette for $500. Now that you guys must believe I'm bat-sh*t crazy, hear me out: The C5 stuff already had massive aluminum A arms. This means I wouldn't have to fabricate my own using heim joints and have the fear that maybe I went with too thin wall of tubing or something. Also, the Corvette stuff uses unit bearings which are maintenance free and are reasonably priced to replace, and third, the Vette uses 12.8" rotors with aluminum 2 piston calipers. I would end up with less unsprung weight than my original plan and bigger brakes that are modern enough to get replacement pads and rotors from a local auto parts store. When was the last time you actually saw a Mustang 2 driving around? That's my point...

The biggest downside to the Vette unit bearings would be the bolt pattern. The Corvette uses the standard Chevy pattern of 5x4.75 or 5x120.something. Obviously Chrysler never offered this as a pattern which leaves a predicament thst I've yet to solve. I need to change the rear axle shafts to go to the larger 5x4.5 pattern anyways so maybe I can have some made in 5x4.75? I'm not sure yet on that.

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Around the same time I found the Vette parts on Craigslist, I also stumbled on a 6.0L for $600 and since everybody knows bigger is better, I had to get it. In all seriousness, the main reason I wanted it was because the 6 liter had a 4" bore. Once you have a 4" bore you can run LS3/L92 cylinder heads. These things flow incredible amounts of air for a factory head and make great power. With the addition of the 6 liter, I decided to scrap the idea of a turbo car and instead am going to build a healthy N/A engine instead. After talk with a few camshaft manufactures I should have no problem reaching 550-575hp with this combo.


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Moser can and will make you axles with that bolt pattern. But if you're gonna be pushing 550+ hp, may was well run a Dana 60. That said, have you given any thought to sourcing a C5 rear suspension and axle?
 
This is when I found a local guy on Craigslist selling the complete front suspension from a C5 Corvette for $500. Now that you guys must believe I'm bat-sh*t crazy, hear me out: The C5 stuff already had massive aluminum A arms. This means I wouldn't have to fabricate my own using heim joints and have the fear that maybe I went with too thin wall of tubing or something. Also, the Corvette stuff uses unit bearings which are maintenance free and are reasonably priced to replace, and third, the Vette uses 12.8" rotors with aluminum 2 piston calipers. I would end up with less unsprung weight than my original plan and bigger brakes that are modern enough to get replacement pads and rotors from a local auto parts store. When was the last time you actually saw a Mustang 2 driving around? That's my point...

The biggest downside to the Vette unit bearings would be the bolt pattern. The Corvette uses the standard Chevy pattern of 5x4.75 or 5x120.something. Obviously Chrysler never offered this as a pattern which leaves a predicament thst I've yet to solve. I need to change the rear axle shafts to go to the larger 5x4.5 pattern anyways so maybe I can have some made in 5x4.75? I'm not sure yet on that.

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Around the same time I found the Vette parts on Craigslist, I also stumbled on a 6.0L for $600 and since everybody knows bigger is better, I had to get it. In all seriousness, the main reason I wanted it was because the 6 liter had a 4" bore. Once you have a 4" bore you can run LS3/L92 cylinder heads. These things flow incredible amounts of air for a factory head and make great power. With the addition of the 6 liter, I decided to scrap the idea of a turbo car and instead am going to build a healthy N/A engine instead. After talk with a few camshaft manufactures I should have no problem reaching 550-575hp with this combo.


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I'm very interested to see the C5 parts adapted to your dart. I think it's a great idea.

Just an FYI though, mustang 2 parts are so abundantly available it's not even a concern. While you may not have seen mustang 2's driving around, those parts are found in many cars and are on the shelves at all the local advanced auto's etc.
 
I'm very interested to see the C5 parts adapted to your dart. I think it's a great idea.

Just an FYI though, mustang 2 parts are so abundantly available it's not even a concern. While you may not have seen mustang 2's driving around, those parts are found in many cars and are on the shelves at all the local advanced auto's etc.
Yep. And a LOT of the aftermarket kits like Gerst are using "mustang II" spindles that are no where near what factory mustang ii spindles were. Most are now forged, have different KPI among many other things.
 
Yep. And a LOT of the aftermarket kits like Gerst are using "mustang II" spindles that are no where near what factory mustang ii spindles were. Most are now forged, have different KPI among many other things.


Doesn't the RMS AlterKation use Mustang II parts?
 
Heck, you might as well jack up the radiator cap and drive a GM whatever under it.
 
Moser can and will make you axles with that bolt pattern. But if you're gonna be pushing 550+ hp, may was well run a Dana 60. That said, have you given any thought to sourcing a C5 rear suspension and axle?
Do you think the 8 3/4 will be getting towards its limit? I don't plan on doing much of any drag racing with the car, but will be doing some auto cross events. The overall goal is a pro touring build with 17's and sticky street tires, but nothing near the traction of slicks. I'm leaning towards the U.S. Mag Rambler wheeler. Kinda some vintage spoke look mixed with the newer big lip look. I like it a lot.

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Funny thing with the Vette IRS.... The guy I purchased the C5 stuff from was the owner of a 1966 Stingray that he has been working on for 18 years. Kinda one of those projects that will never get finished, but he would never sell it... He was desperately trying to sell me the C6 rear suspension he had as well as his Winters quick change center section. I just really don't want to do anything that extensive with the rear end. At least not now. I was actually even planning on keeping the leaf springs and using some ESPO 1" drop springs with Bilsteins.

Speaking of Bilsteins, I bought the set of 4 from PST a while back but won't be using the fronts now and instead will be going with Qa1 coilovers, possibly their C5 kit, but I need to start working on building the K frame before I will know if the C5 coilovers will be long enough or not. So if anyone is interested in front Bilstein shocks, let me know because I have some brand new in the box.
 
Got some more progress done with stripping the car to the shell. Some of this previous body work really bugs the crap out of me. I did autobody repair for 2 years and although its not a lifetime like some people, it was enough time to learn how to do a quality job.

Overlapping and pop riveting panels toether is NOT a quality repair as we can see here...

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There is clearly some damage in the passenger rear corner that was never repaired. They had just riveted in a 2" wide strip of aluminum flashing to get the quarter skin to line up!!! Unreal...

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I have been using a grinder and wire wheel to strip the paint. I also discovered that some point during its life it had been painted a terrible color of yellow.



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Does anybody have any good pictures of AMD complete quarter panels? Like the $600 ones? I would really much rather replace the entire quarter as I feel I will have a better job when I'm finished as well as much less filler work I will have to do myself saving me time. Does the complete quarter come with a new door jam or not? Also, does it include the piece that you can see in the post above that is damaged on mine where the cast aluminum rear piece bolts onto. I really don't know the name of that thing. Any pics would be greatly appreciated because the AMD site makes it difficult to even distinguish between a complete quarter vs a skin.
 
Love those wheels and for autocross I don't think you'll have an issue with the 8.75.
 
I love the project. Go for it. Glad I'm not the only one with a car they like, but without the budget to build a Mopar drive train for it.
 
Great project! I'm also in the middle of a multi-year A body project, mine's a 67 Valiant. It will have a stroked LS motor and a Procharger, Rosseler Turbo 400, and a 9" rear end. I'm currently replacing the floor pans, and then I'll be doing an S&W Racecars back-half kit with their 4-link. The front suspension will be from Carl Gerst. Have a blast, and I'm looking forward to following your project!
Garry
 
Do you think the 8 3/4 will be getting towards its limit? I don't plan on doing much of any drag racing with the car, but will be doing some auto cross events. The overall goal is a pro touring build with 17's and sticky street tires, but nothing near the traction of slicks. I'm leaning towards the U.S. Mag Rambler wheeler. Kinda some vintage spoke look mixed with the newer big lip look. I like it a lot.

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Funny thing with the Vette IRS.... The guy I purchased the C5 stuff from was the owner of a 1966 Stingray that he has been working on for 18 years. Kinda one of those projects that will never get finished, but he would never sell it... He was desperately trying to sell me the C6 rear suspension he had as well as his Winters quick change center section. I just really don't want to do anything that extensive with the rear end. At least not now. I was actually even planning on keeping the leaf springs and using some ESPO 1" drop springs with Bilsteins.

Speaking of Bilsteins, I bought the set of 4 from PST a while back but won't be using the fronts now and instead will be going with Qa1 coilovers, possibly their C5 kit, but I need to start working on building the K frame before I will know if the C5 coilovers will be long enough or not. So if anyone is interested in front Bilstein shocks, let me know because I have some brand new in the box.

in stock 8.75 form with sticky tires, you'll be pushing it. Upgrade it with stronger axles and strengthen the housing with some bracing and you'll be okay. If you're gonna be doing some serious time on a autocross, I'd look into an adjustable limited slip. I've got some information I can pass on from Ron Sutton to help you chose if you'd like.

I'd rethink the C6 rear setup, that's truly what makes the vette handle like it does. Like i said above, you're already fighting a track width issue with the front being so much wider. Factory, the dodge dart already has a not so ideal front to rear track width ratio issue. Factory darts are wider in the front track width wise than the rear. Now some of this can be adjusted by playing with backspacing and tire width but it will be much worse with the C5/6 front. May as well get the C6 rear and cut/flare the rear quarters to fit the width.
 
Does anybody have any good pictures of AMD complete quarter panels? Like the $600 ones? I would really much rather replace the entire quarter as I feel I will have a better job when I'm finished as well as much less filler work I will have to do myself saving me time. Does the complete quarter come with a new door jam or not? Also, does it include the piece that you can see in the post above that is damaged on mine where the cast aluminum rear piece bolts onto. I really don't know the name of that thing. Any pics would be greatly appreciated because the AMD site makes it difficult to even distinguish between a complete quarter vs a skin.
No, it doesnt come with the door jamb, that's sold separate. It will, however, come with the flange for the rear quarter extensions(the cast aluminum piece you refer too) My build thread linked below in my signature line has pics of what the quarter skin looks like. The only difference is that the whole quarter comes with everything to weld straight up to the trunk gutter seam and the roof seam.
 
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