200-4R Behind a 340 and Reid Bellhousing Build

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I noticed that with the TCI adapter TCI sent spacers to go between the flex plate and the converter in order to get sufficient front pump engagement. This pulls the converter out of the pilot bushing in the crankshaft adapter. With the spacers installed the button on the front of the converter just barely engages into the crank adapter. I recently "special" ordered a new converter with 3/16" longer converter button and 3/16" taller converter bolt mounting blocks so that I could remove the spacers. This way you get good solid front pump engagement and good crank shaft pilot engagement!!

What other special features did you have them do to your converter while they were at it, Treblig? Higher stall? heavy duty lock-up clutches? anti-ballooning plates?

treblig
 
sorry for the double post. This new software catches me with this every now and again...
What other special features did you have them do to your converter while they were at it, Treblig? Higher stall? heavy duty lock-up clutches? anti-ballooning plates?
 
sorry for the double post. This new software catches me with this every now and again...
What other special features did you have them do to your converter while they were at it, Treblig? Higher stall? heavy duty lock-up clutches? anti-ballooning plates?


Since I don't really do any "racing" I ordered an 1800 stall converter with brazed fins, It's in a non lock up transmission so no clutches. I just put the car in drive and go through the gears. The trans already has the beefed up parts and shift modifications so it's real nice to drive "regular or "hard"!!

treblig
 
Pay close attention to the machined area at the bottom of the bellhousing when you install the converter - I had to do quite a bit of grinding in this area to get the converter to bottom out. If your bellhousing is the same as mine, you'll have to do this so that you can get an accurate converter to flywheel clearance measurement.

Sorry guys. Car was in a wreck and has been down for a while. Just getting back to where I can start getting going again on this.

Had to take my transmission back and get it wired for one wire lockup function. It's back now and test fit the converter. A couple of you said I would have to clearance the bell housing but I see no issues with mine. Am I not getting it fully engaged or something? I slid it on till it stopped, rotated and it dropped in. Rotated more and it dropped in further. I couldn't get it to go any further than that. There's not a 3rd drop is there?

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Sorry guys. Car was in a wreck and has been down for a while. Just getting back to where I can start getting going again on this.

Had to take my transmission back and get it wired for one wire lockup function. It's back now and test fit the converter. A couple of you said I would have to clearance the bell housing but I see no issues with mine. Am I not getting it fully engaged or something? I slid it on till it stopped, rotated and it dropped in. Rotated more and it dropped in further. I couldn't get it to go any further than that. There's not a 3rd drop is there?

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so, how much h.p. is it good for ??
 
If you can't get your fingers between the converter and the trans (where the front pump is) it should be all the way "in". If you mate it to the engine and have around 3/16 gap between the convertor and the flex plate it should be completely engaged. If you mate it to the engine it will tell you for sure if it's engaged into the front pump or not because you'll either have the 3/16" or not. It can be less than 3/16" but should be much more than that.

treblig
 
It was bugging me cause I felt like I didn't get it right so I messed with it before work. Sure enough there was one more click that I missed. The housing WILL need clearanced as others have stated.
 
It was bugging me cause I felt like I didn't get it right so I messed with it before work. Sure enough there was one more click that I missed. The housing WILL need clearanced as others have stated.

The 200R4 does have 3 "drops". Glad you found it. Be careful about the issue Treblig stated regarding the for and aft clearance of the torque converter and the flex plate. 3/16" is max 3/32" is ideal. once mated to the enging, you can easily measure this be pushing the converter as far back into the trans as you can and measuring the distance between the mounting tabs and the flexplate.

If you are running headers, bolt them up to the engine/trans and make sure they clear your bellhousing. I had to trim mine.
 
This is set where it's supposed to be now. Note the interference.

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so, how much h.p. is it good for ??

This one good for 600 hp pretty easily. Some of the components can handle way more and some probably wouldn't. The Vasco 300M input shaft will handle well over 1000 hp (more than the trans will ever hold) so it's overkill but I'm right in that area where I might have broken the stock input shaft at the power level I'm at. They're only good for about 550 hp, depending on the car weight and everything else. So I changed it.

If you are running headers, bolt them up to the engine/trans and make sure they clear your bellhousing. I had to trim mine.

Yep already tested it on a run stand.

 
How much gear and what back tire are you running clint?? also does that bellhousing allow you too use the factory chrysler starter?
 
How much gear and what back tire are you running clint?? also does that bellhousing allow you too use the factory chrysler starter?

4.10 gear and 28" tire will yield 2K rpm @ 60 mph. I'm not sure if I'm going to stay with this size tire or not. I used the mini starter in the bell. Factory starter should work as well I would think.

That interference might go away once you move the convertor forward 3/16" to mate it to the flex plate??

Treblig

Maybe it will but better to clearance it just enough now and make sure.
 
Hi Guys, Contemplating this swap. I've had a 904 with Cheetah Turbo Action reverse manual valve body for years & I still like shifting manually.

Is the O/D just a position on the shifter, or does that also have an electric engage?
Thanks for any info you can provide.
 
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Hi Guys, Contemplating this swap. I've had a 904 with Cheetah Turbo Action reverse manual valve body for years & I still like shifting manually.

Is the O/D just a position on the shifter, or does that also have an electric engage?
Thanks for any info you can provide.

Its a position on the shifter. The lock-up torque converter uses 12V to close open a solenoid to charge the lock up function. Lonnie at Extreme Automatics makes a manual valve body for the 200R4. He is second to none on building these transmissions and has great after sale support & customer service. I highly recommend talking and shopping with him.
 
I have to apologize on how slow this swap has been guys. Between the car being wrecked and in the body shop for months and just recently we had our first child, you know how that goes. I'm usually a little speedier on my builds but it's just the way things have worked out recently. I'm trying to get a friend to complete the swap for me but even he is having a tough time making time for it between his day job and his side work. But, irregardless, I will ensure that this will get done....eventually lol!
 
No need to apologize, I'm going on 3 1/2 years, and I'm still wondering if I'll be able to drive it next summer.
 
Hey it is what it is, it will get done and will be well worth the wait. Congrats on the first child, the fun begins.

Jeff
 
Pulled the 727 out today and weighed the units. Here’s the scoop:

727 with 8” converter 153 lbs

200-4R with 9.5” lockup converter 177 lbs

The converters weigh 10 lbs different. 33 lbs for the 9.5” lockup and 23 lbs on the 8”. Sucks having the extra rotating mass but it was expected. Should slow the car a tenth or so.
 
Pulled the 727 out today and weighed the units. Here’s the scoop:

727 with 8” converter 153 lbs

200-4R with 9.5” lockup converter 177 lbs

The converters weigh 10 lbs different. 33 lbs for the 9.5” lockup and 23 lbs on the 8”. Sucks having the extra rotating mass but it was expected. Should slow the car a tenth or so.
I wonder how much difference there is fluid weight?? I imagine the larger convertor can hold more fluid but not sure about the transmissions?? Fourth gear has to add some weight as well. Trans fluid probably weighs 6 to 6 1/2 lbs per Gal??

treblig
 
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I wonder how much difference there is fluid weight?? I imagine the larger convertor can hold more fluid but not sure about the transmissions?? Fourth gear has to add some weight as well. Trans fluid probably weighs 6 -6 1/2 lbs per Gal??

treblig

Hmm I’m unsure. The 727 held about 8 or 9 quarts and I don’t know what the capacity is on the 200. Both transmissions were drained and had fluid in both converters.
 
I rebuilt and installed a 200-4r in a 69 Camaro for a neighbor last fall and if I remember right it held 11 qts. It had a 10" converter
 
The converter and flexplate weigh a whopping 41 lbs combined! That’s where it seems all the extra weight is coming from.
 
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