360 torque

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Use a flashlight to check each hole. Don't know about the 360 but with the 318, depending on the year it could have from zero to several holes per side that go into the water jacket.
 
Use a flashlight to check each hole. Don't know about the 360 but with the 318, depending on the year it could have from zero to several holes per side that go into the water jacket.
Head bolts? Or do you mean exhaust manifold bolts?
 
Put oil on the head bolt threads and under the hex for even torque.

A little oil is good; too much and you could crack the block (hydraulic lock) IF the head bolt hole is blind...........
 
Put oil on the head bolt threads and under the hex for even torque.
Back in the day when I was learning, and when this vintage of engine was in production, I was always taught to torque them with dry threads. I'd be interested to hear others say what they have learned on the matter.

Being oiled when they are supposed to be torqued dry will lead to considerable increase in clamping force, bolt tension, and block distortion. But I suspect you are right that they will torque more evenly with lube.
 
Head bolts.
The outer-most exhaust studs definitely go into the water jacket of the heads on my 318 heads, though!
 
Back in the day when I was learning, and when this vintage of engine was in production, I was always taught to torque them with dry threads. I'd be interested to hear others say what they have learned on the matter.

Being oiled when they are supposed to be torqued dry will lead to considerable increase in clamping force, bolt tension, and block distortion. But I suspect you are right that they will torque more evenly with lube.

The torque specs are as the parts were delivered to the factory. Whatever coatings that they came with were what they developed the torque specs for...

Adding oil to the threads and/or below the head will affect the coefficient of friction for the bolt, which will affect the clamp load at specific torques... Too much oil can cause more stretch for any given torque...

I always run a tap and die down any threads that I reuse and torque them to spec dry...
 
Head bolts.
The outer-most exhaust studs definitely go into the water jacket of the heads on my 318 heads, though!
Really? Head bolts into the water jacket? IIRC, I have never done a 318 but a later 273 did not have head bolts in to the water... at least that I recognized as such. Interesting.....maybe I am not paying attention. I'll take another look...
 
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FSM says to lightly lube head bolt threads with oil...
I was checking '62 and '65 FSM's last night and neither says to torque heads bolts oiled or dry. Which vintage FSM are you looking at? The info in them did change over time....
 
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If I remember,95 is the number for torquing my stock 360 heads.

That's what 2 of my FSM's tell me. Makes no mention of lubing the bolts.

Start with the top center bolt, move to bottom center, then the 2 to the left and then to the right. Keep doing that pattern until all of them have been torqued to 50 ft lbs. Then repeat process torquing to 95 ft lbs.
 
That's what 2 of my FSM's tell me. Makes no mention of lubing the bolts.

Start with the top center bolt, move to bottom center, then the 2 to the left and then to the right. Keep doing that pattern until all of them have been torqued to 50 ft lbs. Then repeat process torquing to 95 ft lbs.
thank you sir.
 
Really? Head bolts into the water jacket? IIRC, I have never done a 318 but a later 273 did not have head bolts in to the water... at least that I recognized as such. Interesting.....maybe I am not paying attention. I'll take another look...

It is certainly true on several blocks I've had! Check out post #33 for pictures:
To sleeve or start over?
 
All understood. Clamping force for oiled vs. dry vs. specially lubed threads (like ARP's) is all in the design of the tightening process. So there is really no universal answer.... regardless of any general document. I can find a general document from back in the day that says to use anti-seize on all head bolt threads.... Dry and clean yields a certain friction between the threads; oiled produces a different friction; each produces a given torque to clamping force relationship and are reported to be about 25% different.

I'd go by the FSM long before any general info. But the FSM's seem to not be consistent or even give the info in this case.
 
I was checking '62 and '65 FSM's last night and neither says to torque heads bolts oiled or dry. Which vintage FSM are you looking at? The info in them did change over time....

Holy s*** could've sworn I read it in there but I was mistaken, my 1970 manual doesn't mention it either!
 
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