440 /super charger add on ?

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Cruising around you will make virtually no boost. If you have a boost/vacuum gauge hooked up (and you should) you'll see that the engine is drawing a vacuum while idling, cruising, even driving down the highway. Nevertheless you will still feel a very noticeable difference with 'normal driving'. Open it up, put a load on the engine - you'll start registering boost.
 
flathead31couple , just leave the engine allow . just bolt an 6 or 8 71 case without rooters on the intake , put all the drivers on . just for show . if you can't do the math . then save yourself a lot of damage and trouble , not to talk cost . compressed fuel n air back fires through your intake system will scatter the case of that blower into deadly flying parts all around . the belt and gears will give you the sound your looking for . and the extra heat that created is very hard to dump off as well . an 8 case is cooler looking and will fit the 6 71 foot print . i'm not just blowing hot air , lol ;)
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just for fun giving the current stats on my setup...recap 440 little over stock cam, steel crank, six pack rods, stock 906 heads,0.30 over cast flattop pistons. duel point dis,no advance..stock 6# fuel pump with a fuel return....runs great. blower is a dyer 871 top pulley is 36 lower is 33 ... waiting on small part before starting.what do you guys think will happen at start up...just pulled in the garage, installed blower...blower set up, came from a running 440 rb...I haven't touched any carb or dis settings...just bolt on and start...any thoughts....
 
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well we learn by doing , thats alot of boost air , not very much underdriven . have thought of the extra valve weight from the boost , don't want to float any valves . just make sure you have fun !
 
pomonamissel said:
well we learn by doing , thats alot of boost air , not very much underdriven . have thought of the extra valve weight from the boost , don't want to float any valves . just make sure you have fun !
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its a lot to take in....since I was just going to just show and go and not run hard it hoping it go ok.. is there a drive ratio that would be better the upper and lower pulley numbers...thanks.......if its going to blow up or ruin every thing or hurt someone...I need to take it apart and build it right...kinda sucks...but it better to be safe than sorry.
 
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less on the crank n more on the blower , this dyers set up needed a know front bearing support plate . and its just a 6 71 . i know a vintage top fuel blower guy in waterloo iowa , rudy petra r & p blowers . call him tell him what your doing . lesson to what he says . he's retired in his 70's and sharp as a raiser hot rod racer i think he's still running a 324 olds with 6 71 on the street . he might give you his thoughts on the set up .
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pomonamissel said:
less on the crank n more on the blower , this dyers set up needed a know front bearing support plate . and its just a 6 71 . i know a vintage top fuel blower guy in waterloo iowa , rudy petra r & p blowers . call him tell him what your doing . lesson to what he says . he's retired in his 70's and sharp as a raiser hot rod racer i think he's still running a 324 olds with 6 71 on the street . he might give you his thoughts on the set up . View attachment 1715086753
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thanks for the info..
 
no problem , his built the vintage orange crate blown olds rail . just a few years back he restored it and brought it to indy vintage drag races i'm sure . he's a great guy . he even has a vintage roundy round car a 36 plymouth coupe bodied open wheel racer with an olds in it too . he likes early olds n early hemis as well . he ran a blown fuel dragster with a 392 hemi for years .
 
pomonamissel said:
no problem , his built the vintage orange crate blown olds rail . just a few years back he restored it and brought it to indy vintage drag races i'm sure . he's a great guy . he even has a vintage roundy round car a 36 plymouth coupe bodied open wheel racer with an olds in it too . he likes early olds n early hemis as well . he ran a blown fuel dragster with a 392 hemi for years .
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sounds like a cool guy
 
I was hoping with my current setup maybe go with a 29 tooth bottom pulley and get the ratio to about 19.4% and boost at around 4ish psi...that the engine would handle it....I have thinking to do lol
 
talked to dyer this morning super nice...he said with my current setup the drive ratio put it at 9ish % under drive..with that 871 it will give it 7 psi boost..ok with pump gas..just set timing to 28 and go...shouldnt be an issue..i will see....
 
That conflicts with some of your info and their charts. They do, however, serve only as reference guides. So, if they gave you the thumbs up, go for it. Also doesn't hurt to start conservative and work up after you see how it's going to behave.

I did just respond to your PM with things to consider - it's about making informed decisions.
 
Running hard or not, with an 8-71 you are going to have a lot of pressure in the crankcase to deal with. At the minimum, plan on a pan evac system at least. You may have to move up to a vacuum pump. It should start just fine, it should not blow up, and your learning curve will go up exponentially. Good luck, and please report back on how it turns out.
 
Just Bolting on a 6/71 or 8/71 and running the engine is just the tip of the iceburg . What carbs to use , what ignition system to use , what radiator to use , what size exhaust system ? All this comes into play with blowers . This what I have learned thru trial and error and what has changed from my first one till now . Back in the mid 80's I built a 1972 Dodge Colt with a 440 with 6/71 from BDS . I had no idea what I was doing . At the time BDS was doing stage 2 carbs . I used 2 750 double pumpers , at the time they would block off the power valve and jet the carbs richer to keep from frying pistons when you got into boost . I used forged pistons that were 8-1 compression .
Stock LY rods with ARP rod bolts . All this held up quite well for the intended use . The exhaust system was 2 1/2 into straight thru glass pack mufflers . there was little room for anything else under the small car . Boost with exhaust bolted up would put the boost guage well past 15 psi . with the mufflers off you would see about 7 psi . and would really wake up the car , Picture John Force style burn-outs . The radiator was a Don Hardy Vega for a big block . Could drive the car out as long as the temp was below 85 degrees , after that it would spike and puke when shut off . The oil in the car had to be changed after 500 miles due to the rick carbs. Just to let you know the reason the power valves were blocked off was the carbs do not see a vac. signal on top of the blower .
Next I used a MSD 6al box and MSD dist. This worked out well but you will need to run a colder plug in the engine . I still has plug fouling from to much fuel . On a cold motor you would pump the petal 3 times and count to 10 then start it up , if it starts to stutter and cut off let it cut off and then try and restart it if not you will get a back fire thru the carbs .
Car would run 0-100 mph in second gear in 7 seconds flat , at 35 mph in drive it would turn the car sideways and scare the hell out of you . The car is now in a car museum in Cleveland Oh.
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The next car was a 1971 Dodge Demon for a friend of mine .
Used a 8/71 with the same carb setup but used 3 inch exhaust with a h pipe in it . Radiator was a Griffin with electric fans . Looking for room for the cooling system we moved the motor back . Had to change out the wiper assembly to a 3 speed due to blower hitting motor , still had to clearance the gear box on wipers with a file to get clearance . We had to move the radiator forward to clear the blower drive . poster a pic of car , look and you can see it moved forward .
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Had to go to a second post system would not let me add to the first one . Fast forward to 2017 and I am building a 1966 Barracuda AFX funny car for the street . Altered wheelbase and stretched nose . Motor is a 472 Crate hemi with 9 to 1 compression , 6/71 set up with 5 lbs. of boost . I will use a QFT 1050 cfm manifold referenced power valve . I will post a pic of carb , you will see a copper tube coming out the side of it that will attach to a fitting in the intake , this is where you will see vac. this will allow the power valve to work properly and not put to much fuel in the motor . Same MSD set as the other to builds , with a 3 inch . exhaust with a X pipe . The car and motor is set up to run on the street just as you want to do . Using a single carb allows me to use a Don Garlits injector hat air filter assembly . The carb fits inside and uses a K&N filter .
The one thing I have run into is how to set the timing . With the BDS set up there are no timing marks . I took the V-belt pulley and had them cut with degree marks . The set up I have on the AFX car came from Don Hampton , All you get from him is a crank hub with no timing marks . I will get a SFI balancer with degree marks and have a custom spacer made to fit .
As stated a lot more than just bolting it on and mashing the gas petal. Hope this helps to see what you are getting into .
Don't get me wrong , do it the right way and you will get looks and more power than you thought.
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well I got her fired up sounds good....with the idle screws all the way off, it idles at 1500 is this normal.going to check for air leaks
 
1500 RPM is a little high , what cam do you have in the motor , we used the 292 duration 509 lift purple stripe cam . Idle was around 750 rpm . had a nice lope to it . To much air would make it run lean or not run at all .On the Demon , Terry had a loose wire and it caused a back fire . Terry called me and I went over to take a look , both of the rubber plugs on the carbs for the pvc valve were gone as well as 2 other smaller ones for vacume ports that were not used , put my fingers on the open ports and the motor would run fine , take em off and it would die .
Do you have linkage on the 2 carbs ? If so take it off and crank it up to see if the linkage is holding a carb open ! Or just post a few pics of your set up , as they say a picture is worth a thousand words . Might be able to see the problem !
 
funnykarman said:
1500 RPM is a little high , what cam do you have in the motor , we used the 292 duration 509 lift purple stripe cam . Idle was around 750 rpm . had a nice lope to it . To much air would make it run lean or not run at all .On the Demon , Terry had a loose wire and it caused a back fire . Terry called me and I went over to take a look , both of the rubber plugs on the carbs for the pvc valve were gone as well as 2 other smaller ones for vacume ports that were not used , put my fingers on the open ports and the motor would run fine , take em off and it would die .
Do you have linkage on the 2 carbs ? If so take it off and crank it up to see if the linkage is holding a carb open ! Or just post a few pics of your set up , as they say a picture is worth a thousand words . Might be able to see the problem !
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iam not sure was told just next up from stock..after ckn carb linkage..seems to ldle at 1000ish @ in gear around 850-900. The whole setup come off of a running 440 that last ran at Christmas. I put this setup on my running 440.dyer told me to back it off a little..and set it to 26..My dual point distributor, I believe had 26 degrees mech Advance built into it. And I ran around 6-7 at the crank..fir a total of 33... If my thinking is correct all I would have to is set it to 0 with a timing light at 1900 RPM I believe that is When my distributor is at full advance so that would be 26 correct.

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flathead31coupe said:
iam not sure was told just next up from stock..after ckn carb linkage..seems to ldle at 1000ish @ in gear around 850-900. The whole setup come off of a running 440 that last ran at Christmas. I put this setup on my running 440.dyer told me to back it off a little..and set it to 26..My dual point distributor, I believe had 26 degrees mech Advance built into it. And I ran around 6-7 at the crank..fir a total of 33... If my thinking is correct all I would have to is set it to 0 with a timing light at 1900 RPM I believe that is When my distributor is at full advance so that would be 26 correct.

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Not real sure where to go from here , try to take the solid linkage off from the front carb and crank it up it only takes a little to open up one of the carb blades and cause high idle . I have a little of experience with holly carbs and I try to stay from the ones you have , no idea how to adjust or work on em .
 
funnykarman said:
Not real sure where to go from here , try to take the solid linkage off from the front carb and crank it up it only takes a little to open up one of the carb blades and cause high idle . I have a little of experience with holly carbs and I try to stay from the ones you have , no idea how to adjust or work on em .
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what about the 850 to 900 idle I have now in gear..seems if any lower it will die in gear...and your thoughts on timing...that's for your info
 
up date,,,, hooked up pcv to the rear carb, realized that the rod, hooking the two carbs togeather moved the front carb as I set the rear for idle...so unhooked the front carb set dle with the rear carb only...the hooked up front carb. will idle now in gear with no surge, in gear has slight surge....
 
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