46rh questions

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Josshh70

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So I’m currently in the process of freshen up a 46rh I recently acquired. I have a couple of questions on some things.
1- do the billet high dollar servo pistons/accumulators actually have any real benefit on a mild street application
2- what do the billet reverse/low servos actually help improve?
3- the rear sprag is it even worth touching for a mild engine
4-I read some people use a rod on the accumulator, what is it’s purpose and is it recommended?
5- the final thing here, what size transmission cooler should I run. I see jegs sells some nice ones with a fan built in.
 
Don't do the rod in the accumulator. Unless you like neck snapping shift the accumulator softens the shifts a good thing unless you have a dedicated 1/4 miler
Most billet servos have double sealing rings a good thing
Either sonnax or superior are good and not much money.
 
1. The factory low/reverse servo is fairly thin and can crack.
The aftermarket accumulators often have 2 rows of sealing rings and are billet instead of cast.
(Not needed for your purposes)

2. Not cracking under big loads is their purpose.

3. Again for your purpose stock is fine.

4. Instead of a blocking rod install a TF2 stage 2 shift kit.
As mentioned the rod eliminates cushioning of the shifts.

5. You don’t need a cooler.
Spend that money on the shift kit.
 
Even on street trans, I always install a bolt-in sprag as they are prone to failure with a little hot rodding.
 
An additional external cooler never hurts
And compared to the overall cost and amount of work to overhaul the trans a few upgrades don't hurt (like the heavy duty servos and accumulator) and also heavy duty front band strut, for example) also won't hurt, won't effect shift quality, as often parts like the accumulator switched to being made of plastic.
Stock servos have been known to crack though not real often.
Also there were a few years where there was something wonky about the apply piston where they would leak fluid pressure internally, I've had notices that the piston seals in certain kits (last time I used transtar) included in the kit box claiming "updated seals" to somehow compensate for it. . I'm not sure if that carries over to the 518, definitely on the a500.
I had just this on an a500 in a 99 Dakota I used to have and it caused a flare up between 2-3 shift.
 
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The main issue I have with coolers is the use of rubber lines.
Been there, done that and never again.
 
Yeah I get that, it drives me nuts to see guys run the whole thing in rubber hose.
The 6" to a foot from radiator to aux cooler isn't so bad. Many are that way from the factory, though they are crimped.
 
I'm in the middle of rebuilding my OD unit as we speak, just got done putting the new "big spring" in, had to run and get a tub of Trans assembly lube to hold the Torrington bearings on while I drop the planetaries back in... I'll need that in the front section anyway....
 
volaredon said:
Yeah I get that, it drives me nuts to see guys run the whole thing in rubber hose.
The 6" to a foot from radiator to aux cooler isn't so bad. Many are that way from the factory, though they are crimped.
Click to expand...

Late, but better than never.
I have a thing about any rubber in trans lines because that’s what caused the loss of my 440 69 Roadrunner.

It blew a line and I went to get new line and fluid.
When I got back it had every panel including the roof caved in and it was on fire. (Total loss)

That person was shot and killed when he was found in bed with some guys wife.
(Not mine) :D
 
Along the lines of the OPs post
What's the thoughts on the sonnax replacement killer OD spring? I bought one for this job as I had been dibbling and dabbling buying a few upgrade pieces while I was waiting to get the money for the kit and fresh converter, that was one of the first parts I bought for this job. I really didn't see anything wrong with the old one but that one does have 314k on it.... In the press it didn't feel like it took anymore "oomph" to compress it to get the snap rings in or anything.....
Is the aftermarket part really an "upgrade" in this case?
Once I got it into pieces I was glad that I bought the Torrington bearing for it... Old ones were intact but definitely felt "wore out".
 
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