6=8 and bore over?

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My limitations are max 6k$.
IF you can do your own work, you could perform a VERY nice V8 swap (Mopar 360 or 318) with that budget. If you want to fix the six (hey, I'm a poet), that would be up to you. I'd do some serious soul searching first. If deep down inside you want a V8, then fixing the six will never satisfy you. Be sure before you proceed.
 
I wanted a 360 stroked out to a 408/410 when I bought my Valiant. Ran like *** and after hours and hours of diagnosis it was a stupid mistake on my part of self crimp plug wires. Car sat for 20 something years and a new carb and battery I drove it out of the barn it sat in. Been my daily driver since December. Thing runs like a champ now. Every where I go, I get the same thing..../6??? Is that a slant??? Is that one of those slants??? Man, those things are reliable as hell. After hearing these guys talk about performance and what they can do and the simple tricks to get some hp out of them, my 360 block hasn't been touched in weeks. I'll build the 225 /6 and I'm almost certain that it'll stay in the car. Can't beat these things These guys know so much on how too and wtf is wrong with it you just post up an issue and within minutes you've got all kinds of answer and things to check. Stick with the slant and give it a try.
 
The bottom line is that the engine sounds probably OK, and you just need to resolve some common issues. Taking cranking compression readings is a good thing to do up front just to be sure the engine is sound. Things like the suspension and steering parts renewal, and clean the fuel tank and lines, are just needed period due to the car's age.

BTW 67dart273 lives over in Spokane, IIRC. He is pretty knowledgeable with all of these Mopars.
 
If it runs great for 35 minutes, then you just have a minor tuning issue.
6Gs is just enough to get yourself into trouble.
The engine is just the beginning. You will need everything behind it and in front of it and above it under it, just to stay outta trouble.
Oh, and I did all my own labor, and that is not reflected in the dinero.
But I did hire somebody to to the bodywork and paint, which is also not in the 17Gs

But I think we can help you with your tune.....

But if you have your heart set on retiring that slanty, then you can't go wrong with a Magnum. And if it's a 5.9,so much the better.

Since it says opinions welcome......lol, I wouldn't spend a nickle on a slanty, over a tune-up.

But I'll tell you what; I'm looking for a body to drop my HO 367combo into......and a 71 Demon is a prime candidate. Got pics?

149953342923046267838.jpg
 
That is a nice car. Looks good Listen To Slant Six Dan ,He is a straight shooter. Knows his stuff.
 
Hey thanks alot. Just got step one done, rerouted fuel line. And i think dropping the fuel tank is going to be a for sure requirement, sediment came out if the old filter soon as i unhooked it
 
no pressure but ID. is not that far from here. I could be over next weekend for a look-see............
Try to imagine her with 325s out back, and ready to pull 93 or MORE,in the 1/8th! Course you know she'll get a spoiler and twin scoops, big brakes a 5+3 manual trans, and attitude, oh yeah....A-TI-TOOD
I could even leave you my; fuel-injected, 4speed(AT),rockNroll,3.4liter, Shhhhhhhh,Grand-Am GT, in trade.
 
no pressure but ID. is not that far from here. I could be over next weekend for a look-see............
Try to imagine her with 325s out back, and ready to pull 93 or MORE,in the 1/8th! Course you know she'll get a spoiler and twin scoops, big brakes a 5+3 manual trans, and attitude, oh yeah....A-TI-TOOD
I could even leave you my; fuel-injected, 4speed(AT),rockNroll,3.4liter, Shhhhhhhh,Grand-Am GT, in trade.
Im affraid this one will be a pass down the bloodline car :) And ive had it for probably 13 years now, not running or looking well most of it, but id be hard pressed to let it go. But offer appreciated for sure. Ive been trying to decide if i want to put the hood and trunk decal back on but just cant make my mind up. I would be down for a meet up to hear your two cents if ya live in spokane
 
i did the clifford 6=8 and very happy with that package , everybody does the 8 cyl thing.
my car rips plenty of power I'm just cruising and like to kick it a bit on the highway ,
im not racing it and really don't need the speeding tickets .
 
Sounds like it starts idling lean once heated up. My 69 slant ran like that for years. Finally got a good Holley 1920 and it idled unbelievably good. Many bad 1920's out there w/ clogged idle circuits. Not sure why no mechanics could diagnose it, but sounds like the ones you tried are just as worthless. If you haven't yet, change the rubber fuel hoses at the fuel pump and at the gas tank. The old hose gets soft w/ today's ethanol and collapses to starve the engine. Use "fuel injection" rated hose.

Wandering on the highway is most likely incorrect toe-in. That happens as the suspension sags and as the pivot bushings age. To verify, w/ wheel straight, hold a 4 ft straight-edge against each front tire at mid-height and sight at the rear tires. I bet the sight-line will hit inward on the rears, when it should fall ~1" out from the tire. Measure toe-in w/ a tape measure (difference of track width from aft side to fwd side). Should be ~1/8" toe-in. You probably have toe-out, which will definitely cause wander. Adjust the tie rod ends to correct, and equally both sides so the steering wheel stays centered. If smart, you don't even need a shop alignment.
 
Sounds like it starts idling lean once heated up. My 69 slant ran like that for years. Finally got a good Holley 1920 and it idled unbelievably good. Many bad 1920's out there w/ clogged idle circuits. Not sure why no mechanics could diagnose it, but sounds like the ones you tried are just as worthless. If you haven't yet, change the rubber fuel hoses at the fuel pump and at the gas tank. The old hose gets soft w/ today's ethanol and collapses to starve the engine. Use "fuel injection" rated hose.

Wandering on the highway is most likely incorrect toe-in. That happens as the suspension sags and as the pivot bushings age. To verify, w/ wheel straight, hold a 4 ft straight-edge against each front tire at mid-height and sight at the rear tires. I bet the sight-line will hit inward on the rears, when it should fall ~1" out from the tire. Measure toe-in w/ a tape measure (difference of track width from aft side to fwd side). Should be ~1/8" toe-in. You probably have toe-out, which will definitely cause wander. Adjust the tie rod ends to correct, and equally both sides so the steering wheel stays centered. If smart, you don't even need a shop alignment.
Thanks a lot, ill give that a shot. I routed the fuel line from pump to carb and seems to have help drastically with hot start up. Still havent gotten a nice 35 plus minute drive in yet to see for sure because i never have time to sit at dmv to renw the tags. Doing compression test this weekend
 
Don't spend the money on Clifford stuff, it is simply not worth it.

PST Suspension kit with new shocks. (I tell everyone this from Slant to Big Block)
Aluminum Radiator
1 Wire Alternator
Get the engine running and driving well, Super 6 is a nice upgrade
Rear End!!!
Disc Brake Conversion

Finally... start to play with internal of engine

I chased the slant six dream for a while. It can be fun and was a great learning opportunity for me. That being said, when I got older and had a bit more money it became un-enjoyable. For the $3000 I spent upgrading the slant it was still a 16 second car. I would get the car running great and plan a 360 magnum from MRL performance or something of that nature.
 
Don't spend the money on Clifford stuff, it is simply not worth it.

PST Suspension kit with new shocks. (I tell everyone this from Slant to Big Block)
Aluminum Radiator
1 Wire Alternator
Get the engine running and driving well, Super 6 is a nice upgrade
Rear End!!!
Disc Brake Conversion

Finally... start to play with internal of engine

I chased the slant six dream for a while. It can be fun and was a great learning opportunity for me. That being said, when I got older and had a bit more money it became un-enjoyable. For the $3000 I spent upgrading the slant it was still a 16 second car. I would get the car running great and plan a 360 magnum from MRL performance or something of that nature.
Thanks for your input. I think that may be exactly what ill do. Get the 6 running well and reliably then maybe build a 360 or similar at my leisure while the 6 is still running. I dont want to poor a bunch of cash into if its not going to be a huge difference. New carb and maybe 3.55 for the rear for now just to give me some more fun in the pedal
 
3.55s will be fun around town for about a week. Then you'll get tired of hearing the engine scream on the highway (and hearing your wallet scream at how often you're having to put gas in the car).
 
Dan knows hit stuff and more than not I agree with him.

I had 3.73 and loved them from my Ford 8.8 swap (19 years old). What I have learned is rear gears and camshafts are subjective. some people can live with a big thumpy camshaft and some are good with 2.76 gears. I have come to love the 3.23 gears my self (10 years later).

I would spend the money on a 4 barrel setup (Offy and Holley 390), exhaust, and making the ignition system modern. There is a $1000 right there, but that is the limit I would spend on the 6 (from previous experience). Enjoy the car, do the suspension, and save up for some sort of crate engine swap setup.

I might get flamed for driving this point so hard, but I feel like the Duster platform is the heaviest which is a burden on the 6. Last, the guys that are having fun with the slant got into it years ago and stock piled parts. I bought my last slant (8 years ago) for $40. They want more like $400 now.
 
I hear that;
But have been running mostly 3.55s since forever; 1970.
But in 2004 I finally installed me an overdrive 2700@60 mph finally got to me. I was 51 yrs old.

If I had a slanty DD, I wouldn't run 3.55s in it. But I sure wouldn't spend a nickle on hopping it up with 2.7Xs either. About the only concession I'd make would be a higher stall TC, and that's it.And the reason is cuz with 2.76s the power doesn't start until after 25mph. But put a 2800 in there, and she will wake right up.I would go straight to a 2800. Oh wait, I already said that, and already did that.Did that. And I installed a TFII kit in the 904. And some 5000rpm valve springs in her. I was so excited. Top of first gear was 60mph at just about 5000 rpm.lol. What the heck did I waste my time installing the TFII for? Oh,I remember; I was working at a transmission rebuilding shop, and got my parts at cost,lol.
That 2800 was awesome! And I got to keep my cruise gear; about 2300@65mph
So; that's what happened to a kid with big ideas; me, in 1978.
 
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over the last 3 decades I have had everything from hemis, max wedge, 440-6, 340-6, slants , 318,360, 383,400....... I have found fun in all of them....

like already said, pull the gas tank and carb,,, and clean, kit, new pickup/sock, good dist. coil.etc.. all new rubber lines... check comprssion, valve lash, ( slack at timing chain?).... I say, give the slant a chance, get it running right, and if YOU so desire, like said before, then find a good LA or Magnum to get to a good runner, and swap it in later to see if that gives you want you want. spend your $ wisely. have fun..
or when the slant runs good, you might be total happy with it. who knows but you!?
 
Compression test results:
1. 100 lbs
2. 115 lbs
3.100 lbs
4. 105 lbs
5. 90 lbs
6. 100 lbs
Plugs all look dry. Tested #5 3 times and 90lbs all 3 times
 
Did you have the carb throttle propped wide open when you did this? It can make a few #'s difference. #5 may be on its way.... you can get a lot of wear in a '6 bore and get better numbers than that. I had a bore worn over .020" and it was above 100 psi. Buuuut.... it could be a valve burned or rings stuck. See what a teaspoonful of oil in #5 does to change it compression if any; no change with the oil means valves or head gasket or a crack. Then run it a while and use put 1/2 can of Rislone dribbled down the carb while you keep it revved by hand, and pour the rest in the crankcase for a while to see if it will free up the rings and improve the compression. Usually not, but sometimes you get lucky.
 
Did you have the carb throttle propped wide open when you did this? It can make a few #'s difference. #5 may be on its way.... you can get a lot of wear in a '6 bore and get better numbers than that. I had a bore worn over .020" and it was above 100 psi. Buuuut.... it could be a valve burned or rings stuck. See what a teaspoonful of oil in #5 does to change it compression if any; no change with the oil means valves or head gasket or a crack. Then run it a while and use put 1/2 can of Rislone dribbled down the carb while you keep it revved by hand, and pour the rest in the crankcase for a while to see if it will free up the rings and improve the compression. Usually not, but sometimes you get lucky.[/QUOTE
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Interesting okay ill try that and see what happens. And no i didnt have the throttle opened up, just cranked it over regular. Ill try that after i do what you suggested. Thanks alot
 
Did you have the carb throttle propped wide open when you did this? It can make a few #'s difference. #5 may be on its way.... you can get a lot of wear in a '6 bore and get better numbers than that. I had a bore worn over .020" and it was above 100 psi. Buuuut.... it could be a valve burned or rings stuck. See what a teaspoonful of oil in #5 does to change it compression if any; no change with the oil means valves or head gasket or a crack. Then run it a while and use put 1/2 can of Rislone dribbled down the carb while you keep it revved by hand, and pour the rest in the crankcase for a while to see if it will free up the rings and improve the compression. Usually not, but sometimes you get lucky.
Interesting okay ill try that and see what happens. And no i didnt have the throttle opened up, just cranked it over regular. Ill try that after i do what you suggested. Thanks alot
 
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