64 Valiant top storage

[KosmicKuda]

Car is new to me and has not been on the road since 1982. Fired up the rebuilt 225 for the first time a couple nights ago and went for a short drive. (Documented in /6 forum) It's a manual vinyl top and I decided to put it down for the first time because it was a warm dry evening. I unzipped the plastic window and laid it down in the well. I pulled the top back and tried to neatly fold it but I couldn't get it to lay down as far as it needed to go to engage the latch on each side. I hadn't even noticed the latches before then. [They're plastic clips on the end of vertical uprights) I was doing it after dark and I didn't want to damage anything so off I went with the top not fully down. Well, it wasn't long before the top started partially unfolding effectively blocking the view from the rear view mirror.

So.....are there any special techniques needed to get it all the way down and latched?

I'm fairly certain it's the factory top. Are there any telltale things to look for to confirm that? Except for a 2" slit on each side just above the molding on the rear quarters on each side where it folds, it's in pretty good shape.

BTW, the car drives just like I thought it would. Awesome.

 

[KosmicKuda]

When does one unzip the window?

This post will probably help me. That and doing it in daylight. But I'm open for suggestions.

 

[GaryS]

My top is powered, so I can't help you with your latches since I don't have them, but I unlatch the top to take the tension off and then unzip the window and tuck it in place. The hydraulics pull the top into place and then I have a tonneau cover that holds the top down and out of the wind.

 

[ScampMike]

don't know about the top - but glad to hear you decided to go for that ride!!!

 

[66Dvert]

Car is new to me and has not been on the road since 1982. Fired up the rebuilt 225 for the first time a couple nights ago and went for a short drive. (Documented in /6 forum) It's a manual vinyl top and I decided to put it down for the first time because it was a warm dry evening. I unzipped the plastic window and laid it down in the well. I pulled the top back and tried to neatly fold it but I couldn't get it to lay down as far as it needed to go to engage the latch on each side. I hadn't even noticed the latches before then. [They're plastic clips on the end of vertical uprights) I was doing it after dark and I didn't want to damage anything so off I went with the top not fully down. Well, it wasn't long before the top started partially unfolding effectively blocking the view from the rear view mirror.

So.....are there any special techniques needed to get it all the way down and latched?

I'm fairly certain it's the factory top. Are there any telltale things to look for to confirm that? Except for a 2" slot on each side just above the molding on the rear quarters on each side where it folds, it's in pretty good shape.

BTW, the car drives just like I thought it would. Awesome.

this is for a power top but manual should be the same
OPERATING THE TOP Lower Top
Release safety catch, pull handle down and to the rear and push top free of the header.
Be sure the top well compartment is free of articles.
Unzip the rear window and position carefully in the well. Make sure all wrinkles are removed.(power top) Operate engine in neutral at a speed slightly above idle. Turn control switch to the right.

manual or power here.
I'd put the top about 1/2 way down and push the material OUT from inside the car that is in between the bows.
As the top is being lowered, push upward on the stay pads, between roof bows to make certain the material folds are outboard of the bows, or, stop folding mechanism approximately two feet from stacked position and push top material and stay pads out from between the bows.
Lower the top completely. Fasten the top boot over

if it is a new top it'll still be hard to close for the first few times,
if the slits are right near the quarter window similar to this

then it is an improper install since that section from the front of the top to about 6-10 inches back is a free movement area and is just tucked into the well so water drains into the well and out the drain (or into the quarters depending on the year/model)it is not anchored by the front screw that was done on this top causing the rip you see.

search for umm the Maylasian dart top install and you can see how they slit the top material to ride inside the well and still look nice and not flap in the wind.

ok this guy would have been shot for climbing on my trunk, that is NOT how you install the top. plus he latched down the front of the top before tightening it up and getting the wrinkles out. $%^$%. The top should be propped up about 1-2 inches to "tighten the top" after you have taken the wrinkles out and give the car a "new" tight top look.

 

[KosmicKuda]

don't know about the top - but glad to hear you decided to go for that ride!!!

Well my prior commitment backed out and freed up my evening so I had the time. Even so, I didn't get going until almost dusk. One trip around the block and I came back to check things out and install headlights.
Here's a pic of the slit in the top. Both sides have identical slits. Other than that it's in pretty good shape. I cleaned it with the tiny scrubbing bubbles bathroom cleaner like I read in this forum. The car has been stored since 1982 so it may be a little stiff. Maybe I can soften it a little with some kind of vinyl prep.
The 225 feels like it has good power. Just my luck summer is over and it's supposed to rain the next 3 days.

 

[SSVDP]

I bought a Valiant convertible about ten years ago. It had a very nice looking top. It was a power top & it folded down into the well but not all the way. The power top kept it in place when it was down so I didn't have your problem of it not staying down.
The top material was dry rotted and it was stiff but didn't tear.

 

[66Dvert]

Well my prior commitment backed out and freed up my evening so I had the time. Even so, I didn't get going until almost dusk. One trip around the block and I came back to check things out and install headlights.
Here's a pic of the slit in the top. Both sides have identical slits. Other than that it's in pretty good shape. I cleaned it with the tiny scrubbing bubbles bathroom cleaner like I read in this forum. The car has been stored since 1982 so it may be a little stiff. Maybe I can soften it a little with some kind of vinyl prep.
The 225 feels like it has good power. Just my luck summer is over and it's supposed to rain the next 3 days.

View attachment 1714974995

car looks great BTW.
those slits are (or were) covered at one time(vinyl shrinkage) or they were really aggressive in cutting the top so it didn't tear when you put the top down , that area is a pivot point for our cars when lowering the tops.
in this pic you can see where the top goes inside the body and the top is slit so the rest of the sail section and back can be put under the trim. After finishing you should not see the slit.
my guess is shrinkage.
I use meguiars vinyl & rubber cleaner/conditioner (works but more expensive than>>),Murphys oil soap (works slower but it's cheap) and or pledge (pledge only helps keep in the volatiles that escape from the vinyl helping it stay soft..and for some reason it seem to stop the florida mold/mildew on vinyl)

 

[KosmicKuda]

car looks great BTW.
those slits are (or were) covered at one time(vinyl shrinkage) or they were really aggressive in cutting the top so it didn't tear when you put the top down , that area is a pivot point for our cars when lowering the tops.
in this pic you can see where the top goes inside the body and the top is slit so the rest of the sail section and back can be put under the trim. After finishing you should not see the slit.
my guess is shrinkage.
I use meguiars vinyl & rubber cleaner/conditioner (works but more expensive than>>),Murphys oil soap (works slower but it's cheap) and or pledge (pledge only helps keep in the volatiles that escape from the vinyl helping it stay soft..and for some reason it seem to stop the florida mold/mildew on vinyl)
View attachment 1714975327

Thanks. It was advertised as only needing a carb rebuild and minor electrical work. I got it mid October 2014 and I'm only getting it on the road now. One thing led to another and I stripped and painted the engine bay and bottom of the car while the drive train was out. The unrestored body is staying as is for awhile. There's some rust and bondo in the lower rear quarters but I bought the patch panels when Classic had a sale.

I'll pick up some Meguires. What the Valiant wants....the Valiant gets.

 

[KosmicKuda]

My son came by Sunday to go for a drive so we put the top down. It's a manual top and is held down by a plastic hook/clip on each side that is on the end of a vertical bracket in the well. Of course one of the clips broke because the 52 year old plastic is brittle. Anyone know of a source for replacements or should I just make one from aluminum stock?

 

[66Dvert]

I have not seen any replacement parts for that clip. I'd make it out of aluminum and your good to go. I would be interested in the one good one you have for a mold to make replacements for the manual tops

the car looks AWESOME BTW and the top looks to go down as far as it should in this pic. you door panels and side panel s look really good to make the dash vents match closer and look good use SEM plastic spray paint on those vents to recolor and smooth them using a couple light coats until they match. Or go to the paint store with a part that is red the same as you want and have them mix up a spraycan or 2 of matching color(that might be closer color match than SEM paint).

 

[KosmicKuda]

Thanks. It looks ok in pictures but it has a "Barn Find" patina. The hood is rough from having a tarp on it during storage and there is cracking bondo and rust in the lower quarters. It's going to stay that way for awhile as I just wanna drive it for now. I've had the top down for about 10 days and have managed to put over 150 miles on it. Biggest issue right now is the 3-on-the-tree linkage.

I bought a spray can of red paint from Herb's Parts to paint my "new" front armrests but have not taken the time to do anything with it yet.