65 Barracuda Front end Rebuild several questions and a couple of observations

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JeffreyLee

1965 Barracuda
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meridian Id
I have finally finished tearing apart the front end parts for my Cuda and turning the corner towards re-assembly! This has been a pretty big deal for me, but you guys are a big help. First off, someone recommended this kit to break apart the components.....

puller.jpg


Amazon 45 bucks. I hate to think about undoing all that stuff with a pickle fork and hammer! This kit made everything come apart relatively easily. Second observation is that I sprung for a nice 1/2" cordless impact driver, which also seems to be worth its weight in gold.
Front end rebuild kit from PST (rubber), 10" drum brakes that I'm going to continue to use.
I have a milk crate filled with with the backing plates, upper A arms, lower control arms and spindles, ready to go to the machine shop to have the new bushings pushed in/out and sandblasted for painting.
Questions:
  • de-greased and cleaned up the spindles, when I noticed a very thin film gasket of some sort, barely there, but do I need to replace it? What is it for and where can I buy such a weird thing? I also noticed that the spindle seems to be made out of a different metal that the other iron components in the front. Sort of a copper/brass colored material. Is it different, and does it need to be treated differently when it comes to re-painting?
IMG_8473.JPG


  • Backing plates....On the front side, there is a half circle sized dust shield, I suppose? It is totally missing on the other side. Doesn't look like it can be put back on...Is it necessary? Do I need to get a whole new backing plate just because of this? Also, you'll notice in the picture that there are 2 small oblong rubber plugs in one of the backing plates, again, missing in the other side. Where can I source those small parts?
IMG_8468.JPG


  • What front suspension parts can I paint? Which should I leave alone? What paint and finish?
  • The inner fender wells are stark naked! I sprayed de-greaser up in there and pressure washed the whole area. It's nice and clean, ready to be put back together. There is a hard undercoating material that is chipped away all over. I want to clean that up. I have seen people use a thick brush applied undercoating material on YouTube. Is that what I need to do here? What kind of surface prep? What is the best choice of undercoating material? I assume I re-paint the other parts with a rattle can.
IMG_8469.JPG

I'm sure I will have lots more questions as I go, but this is a start. Thanks in advance my FABO brothers!
 
I have finally finished tearing apart the front end parts for my Cuda and turning the corner towards re-assembly! This has been a pretty big deal for me, but you guys are a big help. First off, someone recommended this kit to break apart the components.....

View attachment 1715110158

Amazon 45 bucks. I hate to think about undoing all that stuff with a pickle fork and hammer! This kit made everything come apart relatively easily. Second observation is that I sprung for a nice 1/2" cordless impact driver, which also seems to be worth its weight in gold.
Front end rebuild kit from PST (rubber), 10" drum brakes that I'm going to continue to use.
I have a milk crate filled with with the backing plates, upper A arms, lower control arms and spindles, ready to go to the machine shop to have the new bushings pushed in/out and sandblasted for painting.
Questions:
  • de-greased and cleaned up the spindles, when I noticed a very thin film gasket of some sort, barely there, but do I need to replace it? What is it for and where can I buy such a weird thing? I also noticed that the spindle seems to be made out of a different metal that the other iron components in the front. Sort of a copper/brass colored material. Is it different, and does it need to be treated differently when it comes to re-painting?
View attachment 1715110170

  • Backing plates....On the front side, there is a half circle sized dust shield, I suppose? It is totally missing on the other side. Doesn't look like it can be put back on...Is it necessary? Do I need to get a whole new backing plate just because of this? Also, you'll notice in the picture that there are 2 small oblong rubber plugs in one of the backing plates, again, missing in the other side. Where can I source those small parts?
View attachment 1715110173

  • What front suspension parts can I paint? Which should I leave alone? What paint and finish?
  • The inner fender wells are stark naked! I sprayed de-greaser up in there and pressure washed the whole area. It's nice and clean, ready to be put back together. There is a hard undercoating material that is chipped away all over. I want to clean that up. I have seen people use a thick brush applied undercoating material on YouTube. Is that what I need to do here? What kind of surface prep? What is the best choice of undercoating material? I assume I re-paint the other parts with a rattle can.
View attachment 1715110196
I'm sure I will have lots more questions as I go, but this is a start. Thanks in advance my FABO brothers!
 
You would find that dense foam gasket material in a bunch of places where sheet metal meets cast metal. Master cylinder to firewall, bumper brackets to body, etc... It fills small voids, wicks moisture out of those to helps prevent rust. The same material is commonly used in packaging so that's where I get new to cut gaskets from.
I would install new seals and not worry about the missing grease trap. That trap was deleted in later models anyway, suggesting it never was req'd.
 
Also, you'll notice in the picture that there are 2 small oblong rubber plugs in one of the backing plates, again, missing in the other side. Where can I source those small parts?

!
Those are plugs for the star wheel brake adjustment, more often as not missing. You should be able to find them in the HELP section.
 
It might be dependent on where the selling dealer was located. The 65’vert I had was MADE IN Detroit going to Albany NY and it was a really heavy coat of regular old undercoating. Conversely my 65 Dart wagon made in LA, had virtually no undercoating and what there was was really thin - no undercoating texture at all. The 65 Barracuda i’m Parting out was made in Detroit being shipped to southern TX was as thin as the stuff used at the LA plant.
 
I beleive that undercoating varied with location and also some of it was an option.
My Arizona car had only a thin coat in the fender wells - nothing elsewhere - thankfully.
Look through the sales options at Hamtramck Historical library for '65.

As what to do. Me - I wanted no extra weight and always had hated how regular undercoat eventually flaked and trapped moisture where it did. Others want a car that is really quiet and even install extra sound deadner inside on the floors.

The one thing you want to do is paint any spots of bare sheet metal.

As far as the suspension components go, again matter of personal preference. The lower control arms may never have been painted. Some got a coat of cosmoline or waxy finish. If you're intereseted, do some searches around here and moparts for original finish on component and you find some answers, although maybe not for '65 specifically.
Do not get any paint on the torsion bar hexes.
I think painting the brake drums is somewhat futile, but it was done on some cars.
I've had reasonable success painting the upper control arms (having it last).
 
The rust on the K looks minimal. Take it down as best you can. If any is left (not shiny) then some rusty metal primer with epoxy top coat or hammerite alone will work. Spray lighter coats for a duller finish. ps. Hammerite fumes are nasty -

Drum brake backing plates. I don't know about the missing shield. If you find one it can be riveted - I don't recall seeing 'em on my '67s 9" or later 10" fronts.

The plugs are removed for adjusting the shoes. No big deal.
 
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