72 Chrysler engine harness

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mopar head

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I`m at the stage of wanting to fire up and break in my rebuilt 440. I`m using the original harness I salvaged from the donor car, I`m inspecting the harness for burned wires or hacked sections, and found 2 cut and splice. I`m referring to a diagram from mymopar, I assume it would be correct, but seems a little off from what my harness is. I`m using the yorker column and ignition switch, but I will be removing allot of unneeded circuits from the engine and dash harness.
For now I`m concentrating on the ignition side of things and need help for why these wires were cut, burned? or bypassing neutral safety switch? what say you?
Here is a hand drawn diagram of what I got with the questions as Q1 Q2 Q3 etc. You`ll have to right click and rotate
 

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The MyMopar aftermarket diagrams are not always correct and can be somewhat simplified. You can download the 72 shop manual (factory) and it should be much more accurate

Exactly what model are you working on?

Q1 likely goes through a fuse link to the starter relay battery stud

Don't understand Q2, can you elaborate?

Q3, yes, field wires don't matter which is which
 
This is a chop out of page 8-166. This MAY relate to Q1, look at the diamond "3" at center left. Looks like it goes through fuse link and to the battery at far lower left The "diamond 3" represents a harness splice

fuse.jpg
 
The wiring in these is quite different from the older cars and A bodies. These use an "external shunt" for the ammeter, which in reality, is using the harness itself. Notice that the ammeter wires are 20 gauge!!! This ammeter is much difference than "we" are used to in the older and A bodies

Look at the left hand ammeter connection. That red wire is what ends up at diamond 3 in the diagram above (A11A--20R)

ammeter.jpg
 
The MyMopar aftermarket diagrams are not always correct and can be somewhat simplified. You can download the 72 shop manual (factory) and it should be much more accurate
The small horizontal spade terminal on the starter relay had nothing on it.
Marked G. Seems for ground? The PO spliced a 1" piece of wire in the 16ga red with white tracer off that big factory splice from relayQ2.
That big 10ga wire off that same splice had about an 8" piece of wire spliced in, it had the what looked like female/or male small 1/4 wide spade connectors on each end, they were destroyed but used with the splice, this is the confusing part, having such big wire with so small connector, but this is found allot elsewhere in the system.
Oh well, guess I`ll hook every thing up and hope I don`t let any smoke out of the wires.
That bottom circuit had a fuse link blown but the car run before I pulled everything. Hate to forkout 60-80$ for a manual for 2 wires. lol
 
The two small spade connectors on the start relay are the coil. One goes to the "start" signal coming from the key (usually yellow) and the other (G) goes down over the top of the transmission (3 wires normally) and connects to the neutral / reverse switch on the transmission
 
The PO spliced a 1" piece of wire in the 16ga red with white tracer off that big factory splice from relayQ2.
That big 10ga wire off that same splice had about an 8" piece of wire spliced in, it had the what looked like female/or male small 1/4 wide spade connectors on each end, they were destroyed but used with the splice, this is the confusing part, having such big wire with so small connector, but this is found allot elsewhere in the system.

I have no idea what this means or what you might be referring to. You need GOOD photos of what you have and what they are related to, IE what is around it and where it breaks out of the harness. If it's all chopped up and or untaped, I might not be able to help.

I STILL NEED TO KNOW WTF we are working on. exactly. Impervious? what? 300? Neu Yahwkeh?
 
The two small spade connectors on the start relay are the coil. One goes to the "start" signal coming from the key (usually yellow) and the other (G) goes down over the top of the transmission (3 wires normally) and connects to the neutral / reverse switch on the transmission
That`s what I expected, and what is shown in the moparts schematic. I`m using a older 4 speed and would like to delete the neutral safty part of the equation, NOW nobody start dogging me about this feature, I know how to wiggle the shifter in neutral before starting.
Del, how / what needs ro be done to make it start without the nss?
Thanks
 
I have no idea what this means or what you might be referring to. You need GOOD photos of what you have and what they are related to, IE what is around it and where it breaks out of the harness. If it's all chopped up and or untaped, I might not be able to help.

I STILL NEED TO KNOW WTF we are working on. exactly. Impervious? what? 300? Neu Yahwkeh?
Ha. Yes 1972 new yorker brougam, 440 engine and harness going in a 1952 Dodge wayfarer
Those Q1-2 wires come out of the harness real close to the relay, that`s why I thought that Q2 small wire may of connected there?
The harness is un taped but layed out where a pic could be taken if necessary.
 
That`s what I expected, and what is shown in the moparts schematic. I`m using a older 4 speed and would like to delete the neutral safty part of the equation, NOW nobody start dogging me about this feature, I know how to wiggle the shifter in neutral before starting.
Del, how / what needs ro be done to make it start without the nss?
Thanks

That's easy, just ground it. The early "stick" car relays were soldered right there at the case

Like this one

manual_starter_solenoid_small.jpg
 
Ha. Yes 1972 new yorker brougam, 440 engine and harness going in a 1952 Dodge wayfarer
Those Q1-2 wires come out of the harness real close to the relay, that`s why I thought that Q2 small wire may of connected there?
The harness is un taped but layed out where a pic could be taken if necessary.

Oh I see. I didn't realize this was a swap Q2 I just can't resolve. It may have been one of the ammeter wires. At this point I would just check circuit by circuit, and "see what doesn't" operate LOL

I guess I don't need to tell you how overloaded some of those boats were with options. Some of them are not particularly well documented.
 
You don't need to, I already told you.......You can download it from MyMopar
I started that download last night and it showed 11 min. remaining, Skeered me, thought I was downloading the library of congress and stopped it. today I hit it again and it said 3 min. remaining, went ahead and downloaded. Thanks Del. Q1 must have been a fuse link with spade connectors, bypassed with that solid piece of wire and was main feed off battery. Q2 must have got hot in that splice and burned and he just spliced in a 1" piece of wire. Now, how to bypass that auto trans switch, wondering if it will start without being inline?
Thanks again:)


I did`nt see your posts when I was typing this up, strange.
Those 2 small wires are involved with the trans switch ns and backup.
 
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