Ammeter to Voltmeter conversion

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71Duster

71Duster

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I am getting my parts and peices to do the madelectrial bypass of the ammeter that someone had posted here. Taking awhile to get some bits and peices, I get strange looks when I ask for 8ga ring terminals.

I e-mailed redline gauge works about converting my ammeter in the rallye cluster to a voltmeter they said it is possible and will take a week @ $135. Has anyone ever had this done?
 
71Duster said:
I am getting my parts and peices to do the madelectrial bypass of the ammeter that someone had posted here. Taking awhile to get some bits and peices, I get strange looks when I ask for 8ga ring terminals.

I e-mailed redline gauge works about converting my ammeter in the rallye cluster to a voltmeter they said it is possible and will take a week @ $135. Has anyone ever had this done?
Click to expand...

I'm wondering the same and found this thread first.

Can anyone point me to the thread referred to above?

Thanks
 
My Dad's Challenger has a Redline gauge cluster in it, thanks to Overhaulin. Functions great, has a 150mph speedo, tach, and their volt gauge.
 
No that doesnt actually tell you how to convert a amp guage to a volts gauge. Titles mis leading. Theres more to the by pass then connecting to wires though.
 
I'm dealing with this right now in my Warlock. but i have a question. if i do what the article says to do and run the alternator output directly to the battery. what will keep the battery from over charging? it seems like their way of wiring eliminates the voltage regulator. any help is appreciated.
 
swinger 367
The amount of output from the alternator is controlled by the fields - the actual "charge" - (the red wire) from the alternator in many mopars goes through the amp-gauge in the dash. That is the circuit that, as the article suggests, should go directly to the battery - especially if you have increased the draw (electric fans, electric water pump... tc....). That often melts the gauge or the wire that feeds it.

Kory
 
Wiring shorted out in son's 73 scamp couple months ago and burned up every wire under dash. Replacing with harness out of 75 parts car and doing above modifications. Adding voltmeter-oil pressure gauge-temp gauge in console building. Then have to modify other Scamp and Warlock.
 
I've now soldered the two ameter wires together and ran a new wire with fuseable link from the alternator to the positive stud on the starter relay and my lights are now brighter and don't flicker or dim one bit. Worth the time in my books.

Next week the cluster will be shipped to Redline for the conversion. They use modern VDO gauges hidden behind the old face, the volt meter will be wired internally so I have no connections to make and for an extra $35 they can re screen the face in original text but with a voltage scale.
 
Yes, the people at Red Line Gauge are excellent; great work. In addition to the volt/amp meter conversion, I had the complete instrument cluster rebuilt by them. In the picture you will see the Tach - that was a blank plate where they installed a custom Tach.

In regards to connecting the amp meter wires, this was what I did: solder the wires, used heat shrink and then used a rubber sealant to seal up the connection.

In the Mopar Muscle Feb. 2009 issue, page 50 they had an article about a new product used in sealing electrical connections and I bought one of the kits.

At the bulkhead, I removed the factory wire that would have gone to the alternator. I ran an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay, protected by a 50 maxi amp fuse. Hopefully this helps you out.

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Here is what I did with mine. The alt is now got a regulator on the bottom, so no reg on the firewall. 8ga to the starter relay stud(FYI, I got the 8 ga terminals at OSH, gold plated copper too) with a 12 ga fusible link. The 2 original wires coming out of bulkhead were changed to fusible links and put together in a factory style connector. The headlights have relays and the charging system is great.

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I missed something in the Mad Electrical how to. The wire they ran through the bulkhead, where did it on the interior side?
 
Just got my cluster back from redline and wow the new volt gauge is awesome. I had it refaced in voltage scale and the lettering is bang on. Looks like 1971 new.

Definatly would/will send more work their way.
 
A buddy of mine works there and his work ethic is AWESOME. It looks good even though once installed you will never see it. He is one of the head guys in the workshop. The work they do there is great.
 
Where did you get the regulator you mounted on alternator? I did the by pass and by voltmeter is pegging over 18 volts.
 
I had the local Alt shop rebuild it and add that regulator. Here is a couple of better shots. They even painted the inner fan my engine color and blasted the case too.

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Yeah I know my car charges a little high now too, see's about 15 volts at idle to about 15.5 with rpm.

18 is definatly much, I put in a new voltage regulator as well but still the same. Might have to look into an alternator like yours.

Did you just leave the wireing and such for the regulator on the firewall intact for show?
 
Anything above 14.7 is shortening the life of that battery.

If your referring to me about the wiring, I cut the unnecessary items all out of the harness on the bench as soon as I got it out of the box and rewrapped it with factory harness tape.
 
Not sure what to do to sort the high chargeing out, alternator is a bosch reman about 4 years old at most new regulator with a good ground. Ammeter is bypassed with a new charge wire from the alt to the starter relay.
 
Quick fix, after checking for resistance to the regulator wires I found the terminals for the field on the alternator loose. Tighten the bolts up and let the car run awile to charge up and down to 14.7 and dropping.

Think the battery was a bit draiend from the winter too.
 
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