Not to contradict people with more experience than myself, just thinking out loud here: I don't think it's an issue with retainer clearance. 1) I don't know how that'd affect just 6 valves, 8 maybe with the difference in lift from exhaust and intake sides but not 6. 2) I didn't have any issues the first 100 miles or so, that seems like something that would have an affect from the start. 3) I'm using springs/retainers/guides made for this cam and engine. Is it possible to rule this out for sure without disassembling the heads?
Bent Pushrods on a rebuilt 318
- Thread starter Deceus
- Start date
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Measure the distance between the retainer and the seal
You can put a dial indicator on the retainer and push the valve
down till it hits the seal, make sure the piston is not at TDC
I never had a problem till around .520
You can put a dial indicator on the retainer and push the valve
down till it hits the seal, make sure the piston is not at TDC
I never had a problem till around .520
GeorgeH
Well-Known Member
Huh? Either it looked good or it didn't?? If not, it's sending metal through the engine
All the lobes are still there but I got myself into this situation by not being careful and not double checking things. I'm fine making mistakes, not repeating them haha.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, those type of seemingly logical conclusions have a way of getting us all in trouble from time to time. And reports of 'it worked OK for me' are fraught with possible problems with all the variable involved. If you don't check, your are simply taking a chance, not making sure of anything at all.
With all that has gone on, I would not omit this check. There are indeed ways to check this without disassembly; one way has been suggested.
With notch down and forward on driver side and notch down and rearward on passenger side?
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
With those pro magnum shafts there is no markings to indicate which side up or left to right as I have these for the stroker build and was checking them . Nice pieces and mullinax 95 just answered my Question about where to position shafts .
Yup. Was about to put both notches towards the back of the engine but corrected it before I did. The holes all point down and towards the springs now. Pushrods seem to be the right length. I can spin them with the lifter all the way in the hole with no play and there's no binding when I turn the motor over by hand. Still going to order a checker and verify they're the best length.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
You talk to Mike at B3Racing yet?
Don't tell me you're not going to contact him! lol
If I remember correctly I paid less than $700 for the PRW roller rockers and the geometry kit. I had to get Mike a measurement of the valve tip in relation to the rocker shaft... after that the rest was history.
The whole set up is far superior to the stamp steel rockers... more efficient.
Don't tell me you're not going to contact him! lol
If I remember correctly I paid less than $700 for the PRW roller rockers and the geometry kit. I had to get Mike a measurement of the valve tip in relation to the rocker shaft... after that the rest was history.
The whole set up is far superior to the stamp steel rockers... more efficient.
That's on the backburner for now. I have to replace my K-member before I consider anything that's not absolutely necessary. These rockers will be just fine for my application provided I actually install them right. I'll be making peak power at just over 5k rpm probably. Roller rockers just aren't going to do much until I pull the trigger on a roller cam. After 3 years of spending and building, I really just want to drive this damn thing lol. If I miss this season of racing and shows the only thing this car is getting is parted out.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
prorac1
Well-Known Member
So did we ever figure out why it bent the pushrods?
My turn to educate a bit:
Both the 1.5 roller tip and 1.5 ratio full roller were power LOSSES over the stamp steel. This is probably due to the weight differences. The 1.6 full roller was only a difference of 2.7 ft/lb torque @ 5100 rpm. I just can't justify spending $700 for less than 3 hp.
Yeah, my rocker shafts were on wrong. This lead to some oiling issues, which lead to my exhaust valves sticking. Looks like the back of my engine was still getting oil which explains why 6 bent instead of all 8.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I don't really want to watch the video, but I'm not impressed with most of what those guys do.
Just to save me the pain of watching it...did they correct the geometry when they changed rockers? If not, that's where the power went. I can't think of a single reason why a stamped rocker would make more power than a good, quality rocker arm.
The other issue is slow ramps and low spring loads will show lower power gains with roller rockers that a fast ramp lobe.
Also, rocker arm weight is essentially a non factor when lift is low, spring loads are low and RPM is under 7500 or so, depending on the rocker system.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The intro slide pictured above with the searchlights made me not watch it. Too many variables that I am 99% sure were never considered to make any hard conclusions. Only 1.6 rocker ratio result is sensible and probably repeatable. As above,t he rocker weight is not a factor.
But I can sure understand not wanting to spend $700 on rockers....
But I can sure understand not wanting to spend $700 on rockers....
They were shaft mounted rockers and cheap ones at that. They had to use a smaller diameter stud than the aftermarket stamp steel arms because they couldn't find a roller tip arm made for the larger stud size. Obviously not an issue in my situation but that's the explanation.
This thread is getting derailed a bit, I'm not trying to claim that the stamp steel beats out Harland Sharp here. I'm just trying to defend my position here. I'm not crazy for going with FREE.99 over $700 when we're talking 3 horsepower at best here at the rpm ranges my motor is built for. Just for background I'm already over $25,000 into this car that's worth $12,000 at best.
You could never conclude anything with any dyno comparison ever on those grounds. Not sure why it's not sensible. Anything gained in friction loss is lost in the weight difference. It's all a wash in the end for a street motor anyways.
What do I know though, I'm just some dumbass that can't install a rocker shaft correctly.
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mullinax95
Well-Known Member
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Ah it's all good. It's been a long and uhh ... eventful journey so I really am reaching the end of patience. But hey I basically rebuilt every single thing on this car and most things twice at this point so there's that.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I just dis-assembled a small block 340 and found the rocker shafts were installed upside down. It was stored for years before i purchased it, so I don't know the history of it. But the pushrods were not bent, just rusty.
prorac1
Well-Known Member
Did you degree/dial indicator the cam to see if there was any damage OP?
Best of luck. Eric
Best of luck. Eric
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Hmmm .... I don't believe my pictures are posting correctly. Using photobucket ... must be doing something wrong.
prorac1
Well-Known Member
Photobucket no longer allows third party hosting if I remember correctly.
Yup I sure did. Pulled all the lifters too, (individually so I didn't get them mixed up) no wear patterns or cupping. Seems I got lucky. We'll see once the intake is back on.
WEBBY
Well-Known Member
Are the shats on the correct side other than being 180 degrees out Webby.
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