budget street motor 360 or 383 for 71 duster

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to make 450 hp with a 360, you will need aftermarket aluminum head or a ported iron. making a true 400-450 hp with a 360 for street use is not as easy as the dyno guys and internet bench racers would like you to believe. it's hard enough to build a 383 or 400 to make a good street driver at 450 hp.
 
reese said:
Ok sounds like I'm just gonna use my 360 I have now what' size headers do you guys recommend and should I go stroker or just use my stock crank and is it better to go aluminum on the heads or work the stock ones? Would like the most power out if it for the cheapest somewhere between 400 and 450hp would be awesome.
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This is not meant to sound sharp, try Google searching hot 360 Mopar builds. You will find many good examples.

Quick recipe

Stock block
Stock crank, turned if needed
Scat I beam rods
Edelbrock aluminum 60779 heads
Edelbrock rpm air gap intake
Quick fuel 750 carb
10:1 compression using forged or hyper pistons
Solid lifter cam around 240 degrees at .050, and lift in mid .500's
1 5/8 to 1 3/4 headers
Standard volume oil pump
Find a set of 273 mechanical rockers.
 
I just gotta ask; why are you targeting so much power, in a car that is limited to just 65 mph, and won't hit 60 at any agreeable rpm with street gears, and even a hot teener combo,can spin the tires all the way there?
Look, I got a pretty tame 360 in a 68 Barracuda, that spins 325s to well past the speed limit. 450 in a streeter is waaaaay overkill. 300 is all you need with the right gears. 350 is plenty with 3.55s
You know you can stroke your SBM, to somewhere between 370 and 388 cubes, with a 3.79 crank right? .......Just add a small fast-rate FTH and you'll be singing the No-Traction-blues.That and an A500 with 3.91s and ...............winner/winner/ chicken-dinner!
 
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I want something that can beat my friends cheveĺle and he has 475hp crate motor in it and pulls really hard and want my car to have something similar. As it sits now it has a 3.55 posi stock converter
 
reese said:
I want something that can beat my friends cheveĺle and he has 475hp crate motor in it and pulls really hard and want my car to have something similar. As it sits now it has a 3.55 posi stock converter
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Your post was for a budget street cruiser?
 
cpearce said:
This is not meant to sound sharp, try Google searching hot 360 Mopar builds. You will find many good examples.

Quick recipe

Stock block
Stock crank, turned if needed
Scat I beam rods
Edelbrock aluminum 60779 heads
Edelbrock rpm air gap intake
Quick fuel 750 carb
10:1 compression using forged or hyper pistons
Solid lifter cam around 240 degrees at .050, and lift in mid .500's
1 5/8 to 1 3/4 headers
Standard volume oil pump
Find a set of 273 mechanical rockers.
Click to expand...

Except the 273 rocker arms, this is good. I know you said you have a budget, but finding those rocker arms can be a pain and they may not be on the money, in need of a rebuild and adjusting. I suggest a set of Comp Pro Magnums or Hughes rockers. Might as well get them in a 1.6 at no additional cost.

The best header for the job are the tti’s.


AJ/FormS said:
I just gotta ask; why are you targeting so much power, in a car that is limited to just 65 mph, and won't hit 60 at any agreeable rpm with street gears, and even a hot teener combo,can spin the tires all the way there?
Look, I got a pretty tame 360 in a 68 Barracuda, that spins 325s to well past the speed limit. 450 in a streeter is waaaaay overkill. 300 is all you need with the right gears. 350 is plenty with 3.55s
Click to expand...

Major disagreement!!!!

You know you can stroke your SBM, to somewhere between 370 and 388 cubes, with a 3.79 crank right? .......Just add a small fast-rate FTH and you'll be singing the No-Traction-blues.That and an A500 with 3.91s and ...............winner/winner/ chicken-dinner!
Click to expand...
Skip the 3.79 crank and go directly to the 4.00 arm. Anything less these days is just stupid IMO. A complete waste of time UNLESS you WANT that particular stroke/CID combo.

AJ, WTF makes his car limited to 65moh? Speed limit signs? What a joke!!!!! Be realistic and realize that is not part of the equation!!!!
Get a grip AJ. You run that chit all the time and is it routinely ignored as a poor joke.
I think you may be to old for this.
 
Up here in Manitoba,they take your license away for that kind of behavior, on public roads, and worse,they have the power to confiscate your car.
I was not aware that I was the butt of a joke, no one, until now, said a word.
No matter, the end-result is still the same, 400hp, without serious traction aides, not at the track,will spin ANY street tire that you can fit into a factory tub, for hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of feet.
And yes, up here, the tires have to be IN the tubs, and the suspension height has to be at or near the factory ride height, to be street legal. The cops can and do enforce that. The days of N50-15s and airshocks are loooong gone.
No matter,I see we live in different worlds,and I will attempt to withdraw with as much dignity as is possible.
 
Yes looking for the best bang for the buck power I can get for my money and hopefully be able to take out my friends cheveĺle and BMW. The car is not limited to 60 if anything that's where it stops pulling as hard as it sits right now
 
rumblefish360 said:
Except the 273 rocker arms, this is good. I know you said you have a budget, but finding those rocker arms can be a pain and they may not be on the money, in need of a rebuild and adjusting. I suggest a set of Comp Pro Magnums or Hughes rockers. Might as well get them in a 1.6 at no additional cost.

The best header for the job are the tti’s.




Major disagreement!!!!


Skip the 3.79 crank and go directly to the 4.00 arm. Anything less these days is just stupid IMO. A complete waste of time UNLESS you WANT that particular stroke/CID combo.

AJ, WTF makes his car limited to 65moh? Speed limit signs? What a joke!!!!! Be realistic and realize that is not part of the equation!!!!
Get a grip AJ. You run that chit all the time and is it routinely ignored as a poor joke.
I think you may be to old for this.
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I like AJ’s input.
Your post reminds me of lightning McQueen talking chit to the Hudson hornet.
 
AJ is spot on and 400 hp is about all the op will achieve with his budget. Realistically he is looking at about 8 -10 grand in motor and chassis work to reach his goal and work on the street.
 
In a thread where the question is asked how do I go faster than...

Then introducing a speed limit restriction of 65mph followed by a wasteful expenditure of a 3.79 crank instead of a cheaper 4.00 with the cherry on top for 3.91’s and a 4spd OD trans... OMg!
Really?!?!

While I like the idea of 3.91’s and the OD trans for many reasons, did we actually read the whole thread from the beginning and answer the question at hand?

AJ is definitely is a wealth of information and smarts hampered by what he thinks should be done which is normally within the limits of the law and sometimes not answering the question.

How about you?
 
fishmens67 said:
AJ is spot on and 400 hp is about all the op will achieve with his budget. Realistically he is looking at about 8 -10 grand in motor and chassis work to reach his goal and work on the street.
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THANK YOU 100% AGREED
 
sell the edelbrock carb. Buy a used holley 650/750 double pumper, set of headers (Doug’s d453’s or cheap summits (may have to loosen control arms and jack up the torsion bars so they don’t hit the ground after ever bump), alignment.
Buy a new set of plugs (wires if needed) and find someone like AJ to tune it. Start with the timing than the carb.

Once you get it tuned buy another set of plugs slightly colder and pull a couple degrees of timing.

Buy a nitrous kit. Install it.

Race your buddy

Sell nitrous kit.

Enjoy your sweet ride.
 
I think the op should revisit post #6. posted by a well known engine builder.
 
and # 14 by Rumble. myself I would go that way. something about a B wedge in an Abody
 
fishmens67 said:
I think the op should revisit post #6. posted by a well known engine builder.
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I kind of figured that post already answered the question very well if he went with the small block he already has.

Thumbs up!
Copy cat that engine without shame. Imitation is the best form of flattery.
Then, give credit where credit is due!
 
All of the 383 fans planning to come over & help change spark plugs?
 
I am the voice of dissension. I still like the big block here. Plug changes are easy with a low deck in the 67 and up A body. You can bolt a stone stock blueprinted 383 HP together and probably be faster than any of your pu$$y *** chevy friends, because your car is so much lighter.

Just think, you can even use the 69 HP B body big block manifolds. The passenger side will fall in and the driver's side takes VERY little mods to make it work. With a 3.91 gear, you will smoke the competition, hands down. With slicks, that car could get deep into the 12s if you know how to drive. That's a quick street car.

But, if you want to break the bank with stroker this and aluminum head that with a small block, by all means, go right ahead.

It's your money.
 
Here is the driver's side of a 383 Dart. This is the "hardest" side to change plugs on. The B body manifolds make it even easier. If you cannot change those plugs, you are officially a retard.

383 DART.jpg
 
AJ/FormS said:
I just gotta ask; why are you targeting so much power, in a car that is limited to just 65 mph, and won't hit 60 at any agreeable rpm with street gears, and even a hot teener combo,can spin the tires all the way there?
Look, I got a pretty tame 360 in a 68 Barracuda, that spins 325s to well past the speed limit. 450 in a streeter is waaaaay overkill. 300 is all you need with the right gears. 350 is plenty with 3.55s
You know you can stroke your SBM, to somewhere between 370 and 388 cubes, with a 3.79 crank right? .......Just add a small fast-rate FTH and you'll be singing the No-Traction-blues.That and an A500 with 3.91s and ...............winner/winner/ chicken-dinner!
Click to expand...
Just had this,conversation, four hours ago ..Steve ( engine builder,buddy )..We,were discussion about a mid sixties Stingray build ,he did 30 years ago . 401 SBC, one of the first sets of aluminum Edelbrock heads . He went 10 to 1,honest compression, a 245 -255 -ish dual pattern cam , on a 114....
His premise,was ...: smooth torque ,throughout the,power band., Back then ,most builders,were still into the high r.p.m., b.s.,This 401, 'Vette was,smoother than,all the,high rev high dollar engines that cost 60 -80, k ,back in the day. The car was smoother and more consistent. Hell ,the man was a newbie race car driver.. He pulled a couple of SCCA Solo 2 wins ,out of the beastie. Torque, is where it's at.
 
cpearce said:
In my humble opinion I would use the 360 and here is why
You already have it
Some degree of weight advantage depending on aluminum heads etc.
More room in engine compartment
No additional parts needed, ie mounts, driveline stuff
Horsepower goals could be easily met using good heads, intake, cam, and good pistons. At those power levels your bottom end would be up to the task with a refresh, provided it is in decent condition.
Your Duster is a lighter car than a Chevelle, a nice 360 streetable combo should easily embarrass the 383.
The feeling of satisfaction of winning with a smaller engine will be great!!!
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Well put. I was forming the exact thoughts into a reply when I saw this. Although I agree with RRR that the weight difference between a 360 and a 383 may only be about 150 pounds, that 150 pounds is right over the front wheels. And you certainly can lighten a 383 with aluminum parts, but you can do the same thing with a 360. You already have everything set up for a small block. I would go with a stroker motor. That is only my opinion, but that is what you wanted.
 
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