budget street motor 360 or 383 for 71 duster

-
Well put. I was forming the exact thoughts into a reply when I saw this. Although I agree with RRR that the weight difference between a 360 and a 383 may only be about 150 pounds, that 150 pounds is right over the front wheels. And you certainly can lighten a 383 with aluminum parts, but you can do the same thing with a 360. You already have everything set up for a small block. I would go with a stroker motor. That is only my opinion, but that is what you wanted.

No, that's not what I said. The weight difference between a 440 and 360 is about 150 pounds. The 383 and 360 are even closer. Add aluminum intake and it's closer still.

To the OP, do what you want. But remember, you DID ask for opinions. I have run both 360 and 383 in a bodies. I liked the 383 more. You don't see big block Darts often because people don't have the sack to put them in. I like bein different. When you pop the hood at a car meet and have a big block, it's badass. Anybody can put a small block in one.
 
Here is the driver's side of a 383 Dart. This is the "hardest" side to change plugs on. The B body manifolds make it even easier. If you cannot change those plugs, you are officially a retard.

View attachment 1715110614
OK Smartass, We'll have a timed event, Me changing all 8 on a 360 vs. You all 8 on a 383. Good luck. For a marginal return in performance, I've got better things to do
with My time than make routine service items more difficult, and the OP's talking headers. I've been out in a park pull off w/a 440 6bbl on a stand crawling around to get
plug readings right after a full-throttle shut-down pass, yeah,..that's the life............
 
OK Smartass, We'll have a timed event, Me changing all 8 on a 360 vs. You all 8 on a 383. Good luck. For a marginal return in performance, I've got better things to do
with My time than make routine service items more difficult, and the OP's talking headers. I've been out in a park pull off w/a 440 6bbl on a stand crawling around to get
plug readings right after a full-throttle shut-down pass, yeah,..that's the life............

Yeah but that's a 440........BIG difference between a 383. LOTS more room for plug changes on the low deck.
 
OK Smartass, We'll have a timed event, Me changing all 8 on a 360 vs. You all 8 on a 383. Good luck. For a marginal return in performance, I've got better things to do
with My time than make routine service items more difficult, and the OP's talking headers. I've been out in a park pull off w/a 440 6bbl on a stand crawling around to get
plug readings right after a full-throttle shut-down pass, yeah,..that's the life............

Also, my comment wasn't directed at you. I was merely saying how easy it is. You brought it up and I was clarifying. I was not calling you a retard. I was making a generalization. But I still get called a smartass.
 
Also, my comment wasn't directed at you. I was merely saying how easy it is. You brought it up and I was clarifying. I was not calling you a retard. I was making a generalization. But I still get called a smartass.
Oh I know, I was smiling while I was typing, but I guess that's a little hard to tell w/o one of these little guys..:p
 
I did watch the video so is it basically a stock bottom end and pistons with a milled head to raise compression ratio and just a cam and intake carb for 440hp?
Lol, first, Steve Dulcich knows His way around BB Mopar heads. They are nowhere near stock, and anybody that tells You it's no big deal hasn't a clue, and anybody who
does is going to charge appropriately for said work. The results in that little showdown are not indicative of the avg. guy tossing together some parts & whackin' the heads
a little. That said, the 383 can deliver awesome punch per cube, again I love 383's. But You're power goals are easily achieved with a smalblock platform, keep in mind a
smalblock head of the desired variety flows nearly the same as the comparable bigblock heads OE, a fact. You already have the car set-up for a smallblock, so there are a
number of little things that are going to take up Your time not performance related, just to change engine types.
As far as the aluminizing thing goes, again, if You're going to drop coin for heads & intake You will actually increase how much lighter the SB is than the BB.
 
400-450 HONEST horsepower for a street reliable 360 is NOT the basic backyard build on a budget.
 
Yeah but that's a 440........BIG difference between a 383. LOTS more room for plug changes on the low deck.
I have owned both and the plugs on my 73 dart with a Indy EZ headed 440 is no harder to change plugs than the same car with a 318. Also Rusty this post is not against you.
 
AJ is spot on and 400 hp is about all the op will achieve with his budget. Realistically he is looking at about 8 -10 grand in motor and chassis work to reach his goal and work on the street.
8 to 10 grand? I only had Close to 6500 in my 440 in my 73 dart. But I will say I bought the short block used. I payed 2800 for the 440 short block and around 3500 for the Indy ez heads. The 440 was built to run on 93 pump gas and my 73 dart weighed 3520 with me in it. The car ran 10.60 at 126 with the wrong torque converter. Just trying to say that you can build something pretty cheap if you can find deals on parts.
 
8 to 10 grand? I only had Close to 6500 in my 440 in my 73 dart. But I will say I bought the short block used. I payed 2800 for the 440 short block and around 3500 for the Indy ez heads. The 440 was built to run on 93 pump gas and my 73 dart weighed 3520 with me in it. The car ran 10.60 at 126 with the wrong torque converter. Just trying to say that you can build something pretty cheap if you can find deals on parts.
8 to 10 grand ? 6500 in your motor and the addition of ALL the other parts needed headers, intake, carb ,ignition the list goes on and I haven't got to the chassis yet. no matter how you slice it takes 8-10 grand .
 
Should I get a 440 then that's pretty fast for not much for a motor build ?
 
8 to 10 grand ? 6500 in your motor and the addition of ALL the other parts needed headers, intake, carb ,ignition the list goes on and I haven't got to the chassis yet. no matter how you slice it takes 8-10 grand .
I can see your point of View. Because I allready the intake etc.
 
to make 450 hp with a 360, you will need aftermarket aluminum head or a ported iron. making a true 400-450 hp with a 360 for street use is not as easy as the dyno guys and internet bench racers would like you to believe. it's hard enough to build a 383 or 400 to make a good street driver at 450 hp.
My 367/Barracuda went 93 in the 1/8, the one and only successful run it ever made. The Wallace calculator says this is 433 hp. Me;I don't care how much power it was making that day. I drove it there, I plowed it down the track 4 times, got my little verification papers and then I drove it home.The timeslip was for the nay-sayers,not me.
That Said, I have a recipe. It's a very fun car, and flies,around corners too.And all it took was a Zero-deck 360 and OOTB Eddies,and all the usual bolt-ons. Very simple.
I never kept track of the cost, cuz I wanted what I wanted. It did take a lot of saving up tho, over two years, while the shell was in the bodyshop 3 years . And there was a lot of chassis work:suspension,steering and brakes, involved in taming it.And of course the factory geartrain behind it, blew up several times.
Somewhere 8 to 10Gs was mentioned,(post #61) and I think that is a very modest number, and there is no allowance in it for attrition. And if you blow it up, you get to start over, there is no warranty.
If you are truly limited to $5000,I would aim a little lower; build something that won't blow up, and won't blow up everything behind it.And won't take thousands of dollars to tame.And something that lasts long enough to enjoy.
And here's a hint; The faster you go, the more power you need. Doubling your speed takes double-double the power. And most of it goes into conquering the wind. That's why it takes more and more power to hit those triple-diget quarter-mile speeds.
For a streeter that rarely tops 85mph, 433 hp is kindof overkill. But the big power allows a streeter to run less TM, and still be fun, and it covers more bases. Less power just takes more TM to get it done. TM is a streeters best friend. TM is Torque Multiplication. You can build a nice little last-forever 300/350hp 360 cuber and run a 4 speed, and big rear gears, like 3.91s or better.You will have a blast.
Why A 4-speed? Three reasons; Adjustable "stall", The right gears for zero to sixty blasts,The right gear to do the 8th with, More average hp delivered over time, And a little more fuel efficiency on those occasional screaming (3.91s will be about 65=3160) hiway trips. Yeah I know that's more than three,lol. And there's a few more reasons still.
And then there's the traction issue. 433hp and a stock rearend,is a recipe for danger. About the best you can do is 275s back there, and cornering will be soooo much fun, when time after time, you will end up spun around and facing on-coming traffic. You will learn to corner on the primaries. To overcome that, you will need to narrow the rear,move the springs, mini-tub it, and fit 295s or better back there. Total cost? IDK would 3Gs Usd cover it? And now that you've got traction, you better address the driveshaft including the yokes. And of course the clutch will fry almost right away...there's another almost 1G. And the doggone factory shifter keeps hanging up, sending your tach deep into the redzone, so you're gonna want to do something about that.Eventually the car starts to hook, but now speeds are climbing so fast the brakes can no longer haul you down, and so there goes another G and a half. And then the 225s up front give up....Now you need suspension upgrades and another G and a half evaporates. Ohyeah, and then lets talk about alignments to fit 245s up front.....meh, maybe next time.
and on and on it goes.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top