rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
have you got the power steering dialed in with a good fit?
Build thread- 73 duster, forged 5.7 w/ PS and AC, 5 spd, big brakes and floater rear
- Thread starter Uhcoog1
- Start date
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have you got the power steering dialed in with a good fit?
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
Did you have to do any mods to fit the gt500 wheels up front? I really love the way they look.
rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
Nice
dustya_383
Well-Known Member
Vid not working
dustya_383
Well-Known Member
Nice now it worked sounds like a beast nice job
magnumdust
Well-Known Member
Buschi340
Well-Known Member
i made my panel out of wood and glued into the frame of the old dash. Means I cutted all out before..... I don't like too much plastic and I could arrage my instruments wherever I want.
Hope to bed the brakes and rack up 500 miles for clutch break in this weekend. finally got a handle on all my leaks (power steering, oil pan, gas tank sending unit). Also bought a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports, 265/40/18 square. Supposed to be the new best max performance summer tire dry and rain.
More pics:
More pics:
Drove about 150 miles this weekend.
Problems:
- Need an air/oil separator. I've got a simple cheapo breather on it right now, and it runs oil down the block.
- The header is burning up the grease and maybe the rubber in my steering column coupler.
- The right front tire is still rubbing a little bit on the back corner of the wheel well.
- The hydraulic clutch engagement drops lower after I drive 15 minutes or so. Once the engagement drops so low i can't get it in first, I can pump the pedal a dozen times or so and get it back to good engagement.
The good:
- The fuel system works wonderfully. I ran it down to 2 gallons in the tank, and didn't have any issues whatsoever.
- I raised the idle some. At first the motor would die when the electric fan came on. Now it idles at 900, and then 800 when the fan comes on.
- I re-did the exhaust a week ago to gain extra ground clearance. I have not hit anything with it since (though my scatter shield bell housing lip did drag on a dirt road).
- I have no more serious power steering leaks or oil leaks
- I bed the brakes. Fantastic stopping power. I'm very excited!
If anyone knows of a good 1500* high temp grease, let me know. Also, if anyone can shed light on my clutch pedal issues. I did cover the hydraulic line closest to the exhaust to try to rule that out. I figure I've got air in the system still. I've been following the keisler instructions- open bleeder, push pedal down, close bleeder, pull pedal up. Repeat. I've bled it again yesterday but then had the same problem after. Given the bleeder is in the line headed to the slave, I can't help but think its a less than ideal bleeding process.
Problems:
- Need an air/oil separator. I've got a simple cheapo breather on it right now, and it runs oil down the block.
- The header is burning up the grease and maybe the rubber in my steering column coupler.
- The right front tire is still rubbing a little bit on the back corner of the wheel well.
- The hydraulic clutch engagement drops lower after I drive 15 minutes or so. Once the engagement drops so low i can't get it in first, I can pump the pedal a dozen times or so and get it back to good engagement.
The good:
- The fuel system works wonderfully. I ran it down to 2 gallons in the tank, and didn't have any issues whatsoever.
- I raised the idle some. At first the motor would die when the electric fan came on. Now it idles at 900, and then 800 when the fan comes on.
- I re-did the exhaust a week ago to gain extra ground clearance. I have not hit anything with it since (though my scatter shield bell housing lip did drag on a dirt road).
- I have no more serious power steering leaks or oil leaks
- I bed the brakes. Fantastic stopping power. I'm very excited!
If anyone knows of a good 1500* high temp grease, let me know. Also, if anyone can shed light on my clutch pedal issues. I did cover the hydraulic line closest to the exhaust to try to rule that out. I figure I've got air in the system still. I've been following the keisler instructions- open bleeder, push pedal down, close bleeder, pull pedal up. Repeat. I've bled it again yesterday but then had the same problem after. Given the bleeder is in the line headed to the slave, I can't help but think its a less than ideal bleeding process.
Thanks AJ! Yes, stock type suspension.
1.04" TB's
1 5/16" .250 wall front sway bar (hellwig)
3/4" rear sway bar (Hellwig)
RCD Bilstein shocks
0" oval track leaf springs with 1.5" drop blocks
Offset UCA bushings
Welded and reinforced K member and LCA's
C body tie rod ends with aftermarket sleeve
Factory power steering box
To get those wheels on: b body width rear (slightly more, actually); and I still need to check this out- I've heard it rub on the inside Rear on a hard turn- don't know why or where it's rubbing yet. And you lose turning radius in the front (inside tire hits the frame rail around 1.5 turns from lock). Actually with the height, I rub the Top side of the fender first on the outside tire at around 1.0 turn from center). 1.0 turn gets me about equal to the turning radius of my crew cab short bed gmc.
1.04" TB's
1 5/16" .250 wall front sway bar (hellwig)
3/4" rear sway bar (Hellwig)
RCD Bilstein shocks
0" oval track leaf springs with 1.5" drop blocks
Offset UCA bushings
Welded and reinforced K member and LCA's
C body tie rod ends with aftermarket sleeve
Factory power steering box
To get those wheels on: b body width rear (slightly more, actually); and I still need to check this out- I've heard it rub on the inside Rear on a hard turn- don't know why or where it's rubbing yet. And you lose turning radius in the front (inside tire hits the frame rail around 1.5 turns from lock). Actually with the height, I rub the Top side of the fender first on the outside tire at around 1.0 turn from center). 1.0 turn gets me about equal to the turning radius of my crew cab short bed gmc.
Hellcat Cuda
Well-Known Member
Uhcoog1,
Wow, congratulations on getting her on the road for some test miles. You'll definately have "bugs" to work out in the beginning with so many mods not designed by the factory. That's just part of the process.
On the clutch, you're definately sucking air somewhere. I would start by re-tightening all the fittings, just a little more than you feel is safe.
Just a few questions:
Are any of your fitting junctions in stainless?
Do you have any teflon tape on any of them?
If you have teflon tape, which ones (what style of fitting or junction, such as AN or pipe fitting)
Are you absolutely sure the style of flare (degree of flare, etc.) are a match?
My friend went throught this with his Cobra. He felt defeated after bleeding it several times with his son. I got together with him and it turned out he had the wrong type line flare on the master cyl. fitting. It would suck air within 20 minutes or so of driving it and he'd have a hard time shifting.
I had a new line made for him with the right degree of flare and no more problems now.
Wow, congratulations on getting her on the road for some test miles. You'll definately have "bugs" to work out in the beginning with so many mods not designed by the factory. That's just part of the process.
On the clutch, you're definately sucking air somewhere. I would start by re-tightening all the fittings, just a little more than you feel is safe.
Just a few questions:
Are any of your fitting junctions in stainless?
Do you have any teflon tape on any of them?
If you have teflon tape, which ones (what style of fitting or junction, such as AN or pipe fitting)
Are you absolutely sure the style of flare (degree of flare, etc.) are a match?
My friend went throught this with his Cobra. He felt defeated after bleeding it several times with his son. I got together with him and it turned out he had the wrong type line flare on the master cyl. fitting. It would suck air within 20 minutes or so of driving it and he'd have a hard time shifting.
I had a new line made for him with the right degree of flare and no more problems now.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Awesome!
Buschi340
Well-Known Member
clutch,
i prefer gravity bleeding. Unscrew the slave and bring the bleeder screw in highest position of the slave. open and wait. Dont forget to fill the reservoir
you can tick with a screw driver a few times on the slave to release air bubbles.
Or do you have such a hydr. release bearing?
I had similar probs with my Dakota set. It happend when the car got hot and I used the clutch more than usual. Guess the fluid cooked.
I replaced everything now with flexible steel lines....
i prefer gravity bleeding. Unscrew the slave and bring the bleeder screw in highest position of the slave. open and wait. Dont forget to fill the reservoir
you can tick with a screw driver a few times on the slave to release air bubbles.Or do you have such a hydr. release bearing?
I had similar probs with my Dakota set. It happend when the car got hot and I used the clutch more than usual. Guess the fluid cooked.
I replaced everything now with flexible steel lines....
blown71duster
Well-Known Member
If you have air in the clutch system, I have found the best way to bleed a hydraulic clutch is a phoenix bleeder. They work very well .
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FB8kzUEqK3U"]Phoenix Systems V-12 DIY Reverse Brake Bleeder Walkthrough - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FB8kzUEqK3U"]Phoenix Systems V-12 DIY Reverse Brake Bleeder Walkthrough - YouTube[/ame]
Thanks for all the advice guys!
Cuda- I've got a brass 90*pipe to AN from the master, then an an-4 alum coupler, then an an-4 to something aluminum adapter (double flare if I remember), which then hooks to the stainless hydraulic line keisler sold me. Nothing has teflon on it. The hydraulic line connects straight to the slave (double flare- like brake lines). I'll tighten all the fittings and look for leaks. Would a leak show if I'm sucking air?
Buschi- my slave doesn't have a bleeder screw- the only place I have a bleeder screw is on the hydraulic line between the two.
Blown- what have you found to be the best way to use that tool for bleeding clutches? Suction from bleeder or pressure from remote reservoir or what?
I will say this- after 'bleeding' the clutch Sunday, there was little to no pedal feel. Had to pump on the clutch to get pedal feel. Makes me think I've still got air in the slave.
Cuda- I've got a brass 90*pipe to AN from the master, then an an-4 alum coupler, then an an-4 to something aluminum adapter (double flare if I remember), which then hooks to the stainless hydraulic line keisler sold me. Nothing has teflon on it. The hydraulic line connects straight to the slave (double flare- like brake lines). I'll tighten all the fittings and look for leaks. Would a leak show if I'm sucking air?
Buschi- my slave doesn't have a bleeder screw- the only place I have a bleeder screw is on the hydraulic line between the two.
Blown- what have you found to be the best way to use that tool for bleeding clutches? Suction from bleeder or pressure from remote reservoir or what?
I will say this- after 'bleeding' the clutch Sunday, there was little to no pedal feel. Had to pump on the clutch to get pedal feel. Makes me think I've still got air in the slave.
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