Carb problems

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plym69

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I recently bought a 1964 Barracuda with automatic and a 273 engine. On shut off the carb is steaming (boiling) . It is a 2 barrel Carter and I recently had it rebuilt. The choke is a well type Carter and I notice that the engine paint is all burned off on the manifold around the choke. The car runs well but gets poor mileage. Obviously it burns too much gas but it was rebuilt by a professional so I'm reluctant to fiddle with it. The other thing is that when I stop at a light the engine does not return completely to idle and it races unless I lightly tap the pedal. This also happens while driving-if I take my foot off the gas the cars still keeps on going and will maintain 40 mph unless I tap the pedal. Any ideas? Thanks Ken
 
An insulating spacer between the intake and carb will help a lot if it doesn't already have one.
The idle problem could be that the return spring isn't strong enough, or the throttle blades shaft/carb could be worn out.
(could be binding linkage parts also)

I'd start with these possibilities and see where it goes from there.

The burned paint around the choke area is probably because of the exhaust crossover in the intake.
The hot exhaust crosses from one side of the engine to the other to warm up the intake for cold climate warmup.
These ports in the intake can be blocked to stop the heating of the intake, but the intake has to be removed to do it.

You may also want to make sure the crossover valve in the exhaust manifold is opening, because if it isn't it will make the hot exhaust flow under the intake heating it all the time. (causing carb boiling)

Just some places to start looking and thinking about.
 
Thanks for the great info. Sounds like you might have solved my problems. Ken
 
a thicker base gasket under the carb will change choke setting which can be corrected by altering the bends in the rod up from the heat riser accordingly. the angle of the throttle return spring will change a bit also. sounds like you have a problem in that part all ready. if you don't have a double return spring... get one.
64 may not have the best set up in throttle pressure linkage either. I'm not sure what year those changed.
 
Thanks Red Fish. I will try that first but I think Trail Beast may have hit the problem with the heat control valve. After checking I think it is not working. Trouble is - How do you get to it? Barely room for and inspection mirror. Will I have to remove the manifold? Or pull the engine. And, is there one on the driver side manifold? Can't see one. And lastly - are p-arts still available? Any help would be appreciated. Ken
 
only the one in right manifold. I don't know of any service parts available.
 
When the engine is cold you should be able to reach down there and turn the weight by hand.
If not, it's probably frozen closed.
Pulling the manifild and removing the plate will fix it, but it won't cross the heat over anymore and take a little longer to get warmed up in the mornings. (not the heater, but the engine)
It may hiccup a bit when driven before the engine gets warmed up enough.
 
Thanks Trail Beast. There is no space between the inner fender well to get to the heat riser. I'll jack it up tomorrow to see if it is reachable from below. Thanks Ken
 
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